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#21 |
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diyAudio Member
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using box size as a THE deciding factor...a dipole (OB or H frame or otherwsie) seems to the most inefficient method to produce bass. albeit without boom. isobariks are slightly more efficient.
sealed boxes (with Qts < 0.7 and aperiodic) are a bit more efficient than isobariks. horns while being efficient in absolute terms are not so when you factor in box size (db/w per cu. ft of box) that leaves TL and bass reflex. My guess is that bass reflex produce the most quantity of bass out of a given box size. now if you are factoring in bass quality just about all these systems if properly designed for their particular enviroments can produce good if not startling results. This I feel is the STRATEGIC advantage of being DIY. We as DIYers can choose what suits our listening tastes, home decor and other requirements. for example..... if you have a 12" woofer that can produce 100db in a 3 cu. ft. sealed box, youd need 4 similar woofers to produce the same SPL in dipole. The same woofer could (given it's T/S parameters are suitable) also produce 100db in a horn with very little wattage but the horn box would be considerably larger than 3 cu. ft. or the F3 would be considerably higher if the horn were to fit in 3 cu.ft. the same woofer in a well damped BR would produce about 6db more in a box that is maybe 10% larger (this depend a lot on T/S parameters). horns tend to have "slam", dipoles tend to sound "smooth and natural", bass relfex boxes tend to sound boomy, sealed boxes are somewhere in between. I think we are all searching for that holy grail. a speaker that has slam and depth, does not boom, sounds natural, fits in with WAF's demands, and to to it costs next to nothing. If we weren't we would not be here.
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...still looking for the holy grail. |
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#22 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: deep south
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Quote:
This does not occur with modern well executed designs - This is a fallacy that is a holdover from decades ago. Horns have moved far beyond this. Horn loading of the front and rear is something that has been talked about a good bit but is not something I remember anyone. having done successfully I am running Lowther DX4's open backed on Azurahorns. There is a small dipole effect from the rear - but since the rear is not horn loaded it is down in output - I have never attempted to measure how much or determine by serious listening the benefit derived from this - Sounds good though _grin_ Regards Ken L
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No longer powered by Linux - not enough apps and cross platform integration - but maybe one day |
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#23 | |||||||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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You are in big LF trouble unless you can make a Bass Horn with a mouth surface commesurate to the required wavelenth (eg like here Quote:
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A dipole will excite room modes maximally in the absolute centre of the room and minimally in a corner. All other speakers maximally excite room modes in the corner and minmally in the room centre. Quote:
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Sayonara |
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#24 | ||
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
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By the way, thank you very much for stepping in and providing some very interesting information.
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Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#25 | ||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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Sayonara |
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#26 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Singapore
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Just a short note - if you are concerned with remaining room effects of dipoles, one or 2 easy notch filters (active) will work wonders for the dominant room modes. It's not just that the drone goes away, it's thatthe midrange clears up significantly.
Build your speakers, place them where yu will play them, and then just do a simple FR test, even with continuous tones or 1/3 octave filtered pink noise (test CD). Then you see where your broad peaks are, and their magnitude. For me it was a broad (low q) peak around 90 hz), and one single -6 dB motch filter made a day and night difference. I also remember KYW's glowing words about the Behringer room EQ (KYW - do you still use it?). That's more accurate of course. But more pricey. |
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#27 |
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diyAudio Member
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KYW,
I don't understand the velocity vs pressure thing. Please correct me if I'm wrong, but this is my understanding of the difference between dipole and others when it come to room interaction. Dipoles radiate sound primarily in 2 directions front and rear because the sideways and vertical energies cancel each other out since they are out of phase. This results in reflections primarily on the front and back walls. Other speakers radiate sound in all directions and making the early reflections more complex and numerous so where reflecting surfaces meet (a corner) the pressure builds much more than with a dipole.
__________________
Everyone has a photographic memory. It's just that most are out of film. |
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#28 | |||
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Previously: Kuei Yang Wang
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Somewhere nice on planet earth
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Konnichiwa,
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Now velocity is the opposite. If we now go to the exact "middle" between the two surfaces we will always find a pressure of equilibrium, never a deviation from even pressure. Yet at any given instant we have a lot of displacement of the medium back and forth at this point. So the VELOCITY of the medium is at the maximum, yet the pressure is at a minimum. So no matter how much pressure you excert, you will have little output, but a little velocity will go a long way. Does that make it at all clearer? Quote:
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Sayonara |
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#29 | |
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Banned
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Portal 2012
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Quote:
Anytime you you put a loudspeaker in a home listening room you will excite room modes -- A properly designed horn is designed from the start to interface with the room -- in fact, it needs the room reinforcement to really do it's job properly. If there is no room to place the horn in then the horn has to be the size of a room to reproduce the deep bass. I have built dual driver dipole isobaric loaded horns that are front loaded and worked quite well in my room. The main advantage however was the distortion cancellation of the isobaric design not the figure 8 room interface. IME either method (horn or dipole) can be quite satisfying but when you really get down to it the horn is king at realistic life like reproduction, power, speed and FUN. |
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#30 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: dry ol Melbourne Australia
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Thought I’d post the to & fros from an off-line discussion on the same subject, to re-stir debate:
> horns ain't all about being loud. They sound fantastic at low volumes. When I talk about effortlessness you may equate that to loudness but what it means is a complete lack of strain - strain you wouldn't notice until you don't hear it. I must hear this. > The further a loudspeaker cone moves the more distortion it produces. I've heard that postulated before, but if it has been measured, I haven’t seen it. Is there a link?? I can imagine it true nearer the extremes of excursion, but in a good driver find it difficult to accept at say up to 75% of Xmax. Even if so, the horn will suffer more from room effects. Which is better in sum, lower excursion distortion or less room effects?? Yes the two drivers together must both work harder in a dipole, but unless the above (cone distortion proportional to excursion) is verifiable, is their a problem with higher excursions than other systems? > Compare it to a properly done horn system (which will be ridiculously large) and there is no comparison. Two things, most may accept large, eg the Labhorn, but not ridiculously large. And compare on what criteria, excursion/ efficiency, or clean sound? I actually seriously considered going horns, was deterred by size, but still think the dipole is a better all round approach for most normal domestic situations. |
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