Fresh off some sucesses with Lyra speakers and a third GainClone using BrianGT's boards, I'm looking for a new project and I think I want to build some quarter-wave pipes.
I'd like to build them around Fostex drivers (maybe the FE164 / 166E) since the general consensus seems to be that they offer the most favorable ratio in bang / buck computations. I've probably read all of the postings on this forum at least once and I've been to the quarter-wave and t-linespeakers sites, but I still have some questions.
First, has anyone had any good FIRST experiences building these things with Fostex drivers (newbie, here)? Second, is the FE166E really a drop-in replacement for the FE164, or are there some design considerations.
Third, I like the design of these, but I'd really like to use the drivers in this design and I want to use a single driver. Any ideas?
Finally, I'll be using these with a non-inverted GainClone pushing about 40W per channel and since these drivers are more sensitive than my Lyras (the Fostex are 94dB, I think) I want to make sure the speakers don't wind up having the "Pete Townshend wuz here" look when I power up.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and as always, feel free to request any UN resolutions and I may be able to bring them up at the next UN open forum (wink, wink).
Kofi
I'd like to build them around Fostex drivers (maybe the FE164 / 166E) since the general consensus seems to be that they offer the most favorable ratio in bang / buck computations. I've probably read all of the postings on this forum at least once and I've been to the quarter-wave and t-linespeakers sites, but I still have some questions.
First, has anyone had any good FIRST experiences building these things with Fostex drivers (newbie, here)? Second, is the FE166E really a drop-in replacement for the FE164, or are there some design considerations.
Third, I like the design of these, but I'd really like to use the drivers in this design and I want to use a single driver. Any ideas?
Finally, I'll be using these with a non-inverted GainClone pushing about 40W per channel and since these drivers are more sensitive than my Lyras (the Fostex are 94dB, I think) I want to make sure the speakers don't wind up having the "Pete Townshend wuz here" look when I power up.
Any recommendations would be greatly appreciated and as always, feel free to request any UN resolutions and I may be able to bring them up at the next UN open forum (wink, wink).
Kofi
Cool! Thanks for the replies.
Do you think the GC will be too much for the sensitive Fostexessesses?
Also, are you saying that I could use the FE167 in a quarter-wave tapered pipe and get away with it? Can I get the RS40-1197s over the web somewhere (it looks like RS only carries them in stores in Canada).
Anyone got a favorite design? I like these for the aesthetics. I'd like to find a clone of the Abby if anyone knows of one.
Sorry if these questions seem dim. The reason is that I'm dim.
Kofi
Do you think the GC will be too much for the sensitive Fostexessesses?
Also, are you saying that I could use the FE167 in a quarter-wave tapered pipe and get away with it? Can I get the RS40-1197s over the web somewhere (it looks like RS only carries them in stores in Canada).
Anyone got a favorite design? I like these for the aesthetics. I'd like to find a clone of the Abby if anyone knows of one.
Sorry if these questions seem dim. The reason is that I'm dim.
Kofi
OK-- more specific question here:
Will this design work with Fostex FE207Es? The designer (the speaker-picker, anyway), Dan Dicker, indicates that these may not perform as well as the 207s, but since I can't find any 207s, will the "E"s do? They seem to have a 50HZ response at just a little less than 85dB, but I'm thinking its got to be close enough here, right?
Also, can I run these off a GainClone or will I be picking up pieces of an exploded driver while Mrs. Annan goes to stay at her sister's for a while until things cool down a bit?
Kofi
Will this design work with Fostex FE207Es? The designer (the speaker-picker, anyway), Dan Dicker, indicates that these may not perform as well as the 207s, but since I can't find any 207s, will the "E"s do? They seem to have a 50HZ response at just a little less than 85dB, but I'm thinking its got to be close enough here, right?
Also, can I run these off a GainClone or will I be picking up pieces of an exploded driver while Mrs. Annan goes to stay at her sister's for a while until things cool down a bit?
Kofi
Thanks!
Is the RS speaker that Bob uses in his straight pipe project (Model #40-1354a) the same as the RS40-1197?
If so, I'd love to get my hands on some of those and I will be E-mailing you. It looks like this would be a great first pipe project.
Thanks for all the information-- this is really a great forum.
Kofi
Kofi Annan said:
No, the 1354 was a 5 1/4" with a whizzer cone, the 1197 is a 4" based on the Fostex FE-103 (it even comes labeled FE-103). The 1354 was only ever available in the US... if you are REAL lucky you might still find a pair in a dark corner of some Radio Shack store (same with the 1197 as well) -- people are still reporting occasional finds.
Bob's 1354 project is an ML-TQWT so it gets larger towards the terminus.
dave
Kofi Annan said:
I'm surprised Tim hasn't posted in this thread yet... then it would be as simple as scrolling up and hitting his www button.
http://alegriaaudio.com/bipole_voigt_pipe.htm
picture back & front from this WEs mini-diyFest
Having a few 1197s -- i'm going to build up a folded pair of these.
dave
Attachments
Wow. These look great.
I'm trying to understand the dimensions, though. On the website, Tim describes it thusly:
Line length = 41.5", cabinet depth 4", area at top = 5.5 sq. in., area at bottom, 39 sq. in. The driver will be located at a distance equal to 43% of the length of the pipe from the top of the enclosure. A 1.75" tapered 2" long port tube will be placed near the bottom of the pipe.
OK Tim, if you're out there, prepare for the bombardment of questions. First, are these internal or external dimensions? It looks like the line measurements are external and the area measurements are internal, but I'm probably wrong about that. Also, did you use 3/4 pine? That's what it looks like, but I'm pretty dumb.
Also the area at the bottom of the pipe of 39 sq. in., this is without the platform base, right?
If I'm correct (which is rare), the EXTERNAL dimensions should be:
41.5" x 5.5" x 3/4" (straight side)
42.25" x 5.5" x 3/4" (angled side-- not sure about this one)
3/4" x 3" x 5.5" (top)
10" x 5.5" x 3/4: (bottom, without stand)
Sorry for all the questions. Should you (or someone else) decide to answer, Mrs. A can knit a hat and / or mittens for the individual with the first correct response. Scarves can also be negotiated.
Kofi
I'm trying to understand the dimensions, though. On the website, Tim describes it thusly:
Line length = 41.5", cabinet depth 4", area at top = 5.5 sq. in., area at bottom, 39 sq. in. The driver will be located at a distance equal to 43% of the length of the pipe from the top of the enclosure. A 1.75" tapered 2" long port tube will be placed near the bottom of the pipe.
OK Tim, if you're out there, prepare for the bombardment of questions. First, are these internal or external dimensions? It looks like the line measurements are external and the area measurements are internal, but I'm probably wrong about that. Also, did you use 3/4 pine? That's what it looks like, but I'm pretty dumb.
Also the area at the bottom of the pipe of 39 sq. in., this is without the platform base, right?
If I'm correct (which is rare), the EXTERNAL dimensions should be:
41.5" x 5.5" x 3/4" (straight side)
42.25" x 5.5" x 3/4" (angled side-- not sure about this one)
3/4" x 3" x 5.5" (top)
10" x 5.5" x 3/4: (bottom, without stand)
Sorry for all the questions. Should you (or someone else) decide to answer, Mrs. A can knit a hat and / or mittens for the individual with the first correct response. Scarves can also be negotiated.
Kofi
Kofi Annan said:
The only important parameters are line length, cross-section, driver placement, and port size (placement is generally as close to the end as possible). Since they are so short, i'm going to take the terminus out the bottom and lift them up a couple more inches (like in the BD-Pipes or the toobz.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
dave
How could I possibly miss this thread? It's been a busy weekend with little sleep. I'll try to catch up.
Let's see...yep internal dimensions. Yep, pine boards. The things are so light I can't play them outdoors in a breeze. Birch ply with a dowel brace half-way between the drivers and the base would be good also. The important part, as you've said, is the internal dimensions with the areas at the top and bottom determining the angle of the taper. Other than that alter at your desire. BTW, the front and rear drivers are coupled with a short wooden dowel acting as a brace of sorts. Since the pipe is so short I've considered moving the drivers 90 degrees so the forward driver is on the tapered side and fires at ear level. Haven't tried it yet though.
Let's see...yep internal dimensions. Yep, pine boards. The things are so light I can't play them outdoors in a breeze. Birch ply with a dowel brace half-way between the drivers and the base would be good also. The important part, as you've said, is the internal dimensions with the areas at the top and bottom determining the angle of the taper. Other than that alter at your desire. BTW, the front and rear drivers are coupled with a short wooden dowel acting as a brace of sorts. Since the pipe is so short I've considered moving the drivers 90 degrees so the forward driver is on the tapered side and fires at ear level. Haven't tried it yet though.
Alright! Comments from the designer himself!
This one looks like a winner, if I can get the RS drivers. If all else fails, I imagine I can use the FE103s.
Tim, do you happen to have a clearer drawing of the cabinet. I tried to make out the exact position of the port and the length of the slanted side, but the jpeg is a little fuzzy. If not, I feel pretty confident that I can figure the right dimensions using your guidelines on construction. Also, does the length of the bottom platform affect the sound or can I make mine a little bigger for stability?
Mittens all around, you question answerers!
Kofi
This one looks like a winner, if I can get the RS drivers. If all else fails, I imagine I can use the FE103s.
Tim, do you happen to have a clearer drawing of the cabinet. I tried to make out the exact position of the port and the length of the slanted side, but the jpeg is a little fuzzy. If not, I feel pretty confident that I can figure the right dimensions using your guidelines on construction. Also, does the length of the bottom platform affect the sound or can I make mine a little bigger for stability?
Mittens all around, you question answerers!
Kofi
), i'll see how quickly i can get at them.
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.