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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Although I'm not new to building boxes, I am a total new comer to the world of hifi crossovers.
Here's the troublesome crossover schematic: ![]() Which is basically for this What I really need your help with is identifying the components from the schematic. None are labelled as to what they are for somebody with no experience with this before. Many thanks to anyone who replies with answers. |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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Inductor = solid black rectangle
Resistor = white rectangle Capacitor = two parallel lines Connection points = solid black circles |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Interesting, two tweeters wired out of polarity to each other
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left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2002
Location: Calgary, Alberta
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Quote:
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Aerodynamics are for people who can't build engines. Enzo Ferrari |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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Dipole for surround speakers. Looks nice!
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#6 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
Just one more question, do I need to be concerned about the denotations on some of the components? ie. Some of the Inductors have 'SP' or 'FC' and likewise for the capacitors with 'ELKO spez' and 'ELKO rauh'. The last two are German but of course I don't know a word of it, so any Germanics care to shed some light on this please? |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Queensland
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SinOBIWAN I think the components as these. (i) the solid black rectangles are inductors. The values are in millihenries and the larger ones (3.9 and 6.8) are iron/metal cored. I guess the "F" in the FC stands for ferrite/ferro. The smaller values (1.5mH or 0.22mH) are air cored and they have given you the diameter of the wire in millimeters (1.0mm and 0.6 mm). I know a bit of Biblical Greek and the "P" may stand for the Greek word for "wind/breath" which is "pneuma" as air powered tools in English are "pneumatic". (ii) The open rectangles are resistors with values in "ohms" and the "watts" give the power rating. You can use larger power rating but best to avoid smaller ones. (iii) the components with parallel lines are non-polarised capacitors and the values are given in micro-farads. I'm not sure what "rauh" and "spez" are but they could mean "electrolytic" and "plastic film". The components on the right hand side of the diagram are the drivers/speakers and the numbers will be part numbers from the manufacturer.
European readers who know the language may able to be more helpful. Jonathan Bright.
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"It was the Spring time of the year when aunt calls to aunt like mastodons across the frozen waste." P.G. Wodehouse. |
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#9 | |
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diyAudio Member
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Quote:
Somehow I missed that !
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left lane is for passing, slower traffic keep right please. |
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#10 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: UK
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Quote:
![]() Wow you know your stuff. Top man and give yourself a pat on the back. I pretty much know what I need to be ordering now, I already have the drive units on order but need to build the crossovers myself. Should be a good first experience for me, because as I understand, its a rather complicated arrangement. So next time I'll be a dab hand at this I'd be grateful if anyone can just clear the 'rauh' and 'spez' issue on the caps-see I almost sound as if I know what I'm talking about now |
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