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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hi,
I'm building some Manger 103 speakers and every edge is chamfered 10mm (45degs). I am looking at using 0.6mm Birdseye Maple veneer. My question is how do you veneer something like this, because especially at the corners, it gets very complicated! Any help or proven book references are appreciated! Thanks, Gaz |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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If the chamfer is that small then I wouldnt recommend veneering the chamfered bit at all. Usually in a case like that I would veneer the box without any chamfering. Then I would route out a 10mm groove round the front edge and fill the cap with some real wood. Then use the router to chamfer the wood.
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What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! Droggon Attack! |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
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Maybe that is the best idea. However, I have some Manger 109s on loan that are veneered all over, and it very difficult to see the seams. The reference 103s have the most incrediable finish - and that's what I'm after.
I'm about to take very close & detailed pics of the 109s before they go back to Manger UK - so I don't forget their construction details. Gaz |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Austin
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If you are SUPER good with razor blade cutting, you might try putting a bevel on the veneer. Or maybe you could use a band saw or table saw with a fine blade and a good fence, set to the appropriate angle. Sounds like a pain. have you experimented with steaming the veneer to bend it around the angles?
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I have previously, on a 1/4 or 1/2 inch radius corner before. It was just a case of pushing the iron over it very carefully, however, every edge on these boxes will be chamfered and that means the corners are going to be difficult. I believe I have solved the mystry for the 109s after some careful studying. Some of the chamfers are the same veneer as the baffle piece of veneer, and some are totally seperate.
Gaz |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Upstate NY
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I'd figure out the order that you'd like the pieces to oerlap and start at teh ones on teh bottom. at each stage, cut close with a veneer saw, trim it almost flush with a bloack plane set to take the thinnest possible shaving then sand teh edges flush with 180 or 220 grit paper on a block. My guess is you'll want to veneer the bottom, back, sides, chamfer pieces, front and then top. This will keep teh overlaps glue lines facing away from you as much as possible. When sanding the edges next to teh chamfer, use teh un veneered surface as a guideso your veneer edges are appropriately beveled.
Good luck. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Thanks very much Bob. It sounds like a plan!
Gaz |
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