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Old 12th May 2004, 09:20 AM   #1
kegger is offline kegger  United States
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Location: michigan
Red face best 8" midbass driver

I was looking for some suggestions on a good
sounding midbass driver.

some of the peramiters are.
freq range 150-3000
6 or 8 ohm
sealed cabinet use .84 cu. ft. or less
spl 90 to 95

not so much actually concerned with bass reproductiion.

as this will be the midbass driver in a dual 8"
3 way with the lower driver being the true bass driver.

looking for clean clear midrange with good vocals
it will be crossed over at somewhere around 2500.

maximum outside diamater would be 8 1/4".

it would be nice to get a pair for $100 or less
but i would appreciate all suggestions so i could
compare.and maybe i have to spend more to get what i want.

thanks in advance for all help on this!
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Old 12th May 2004, 10:31 AM   #2
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showd...number=296-175

For your budget you'd be hard pressed to do better.

Graphs used PE measured parameters.

Just about reaches your sensitivity requirements.

sreten.
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File Type: gif ap210zo.gif (71.1 KB, 554 views)
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Old 12th May 2004, 01:26 PM   #3
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the AP210Z0 is indeed a nice woofer, I am using 2 in parallel in each of my curved sided cabinets, along with an AT170Z0 for the mid and the Hiquphon OW1 tweeter. The only problem is that with both of the woofers in parallel the impedance is a mere 3 ohms... although my amp, an AKSA 100W nirvana, seems to handle it without much trouble. In the configuration I am using them in they go WAYYYY DOWN. With the meagre test equipment at my disposal (a tandy SPL meter and a sine wave generator) they produce bass down to 28 HZ. Therefore my current sub only comes into play with the LFE channel on the surround sound processor, it is completely redundant when listening to music. However I see you want to cross them over at 3000HZ, that could be a bit high, I'm only using them below 300HZ with the 6 1/2" AT170Z0 handling the 300 - 2750 HZ range.

Though that doesn't stop me from considering building an isobaric Tempest based subwoofer for HT use...
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Old 12th May 2004, 01:41 PM   #4
Mark25 is offline Mark25  United Kingdom
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the AP210G6 has a cleaner o/p at 2500Hz and higher sensitivity than the Ap210Z0. And it's cheaper!
M.
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Old 12th May 2004, 03:08 PM   #5
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The AP210ZO has a huge dip at 1kHz. What gives?
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Old 12th May 2004, 03:47 PM   #6
sreten is offline sreten  United Kingdom
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Default Re: best 8" midbass driver

Quote:
Originally posted by kegger

as this will be the midbass driver in a dual 8"
3 way with the lower driver being the true bass driver.
Your crossover and baffle step compensation arrangements
would be of some interest as well as the bass driver "proper",
I suspect a 2.5 way may be needed if you want sensitivity.

Quote:
Originally posted by Mark25
the AP210G6 has a cleaner o/p at 2500Hz and higher sensitivity than the Ap210Z0. And it's cheaper!
M.
Well is certainly cheaper in the UK from Maplin. Can't find US source.
One would expect the HDA cone to be better than the coated paper cone.


Quote:
Originally posted by 454Casull
The AP210ZO has a huge dip at 1kHz. What gives?
Not according to PE's measurements.

sreten.
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Old 12th May 2004, 05:35 PM   #7
kegger is offline kegger  United States
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Default nice driver

I had looked at the audax driver on the partsexpress website.

the only problem is i am trying to stay within a certain size as i
mentioned in the post and from what i can gather those drivers
are a little to large and i would have to open the hole that is
allready "recessed nicely".

i could open the whole some but i was trying to see if i could get
around it.

these are a pair of old advents that i have modified and sealed
off the upper chamber with the midbass and tweeter and the
bottem driver will be in the larger chamber and ported fully braced
and real wood on all sides complete cabinet is 1.5" thick all the
way around and look beutiful.

anyways my maximum hole opening right now is 8 1/4 " and the
partsexpress website says the audax drivers are 8 5/8" so 3/8"
is a fairly descent amount.if parts expresses #'s are off that would
be great does anyone know or should i just open the hole up?

and yes this is more like a 2.5way than a 3way sorry i misspoke.
and the midbass driver's strength's that i chose will determine
the final bass driver and crossover points which i'm not concerned
with at this point as long as they are within reason.

i have the tweeter allready i am using the original advent heritage
tweeter which is about 92 sens. and goes down to about 2100.

as far as the bass driver goes i have several to try but i need the
midbass driver to really determine which one i want to use.
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Old 12th May 2004, 11:04 PM   #8
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Default Re: Re: best 8" midbass driver

Quote:
Originally posted by sreten


Your crossover and baffle step compensation arrangements
would be of some interest as well as the bass driver "proper",
I suspect a 2.5 way may be needed if you want sensitivity.



Well is certainly cheaper in the UK from Maplin. Can't find US source.
One would expect the HDA cone to be better than the coated paper cone.




Not according to PE's measurements.

sreten.
You're right. Why would Audax include it in their own datasheet then?
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Old 12th May 2004, 11:10 PM   #9
Matt D is offline Matt D  United States
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I've got a pair of Audax HT210T0, HT210M0 and HT210M2 for sale. These all use the same steel basket that has a 209mm diameter. The M0 and M2 have a plastic trim ring that brings the O.D. to 213mm. The trim ring can be pulled off if needed. Let me know if you want specs.

Matt
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Old 13th May 2004, 03:31 PM   #10
tron is offline tron  United States
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Default spkr

kegger lets see some pics of those speakers when you get em done.they sound kinda nice.


matt are all 3 of those speakers paper cones with foam surround.


ANYONE
also i was wondering probably the same thing as kegger what
mm is the same as 8 1/4" as my speakers are the same and dont
want to modify the hole.



hey kegger just a thought as i may do the same.
what about making a wood template to reduce the hole to say
6.5" or smaller without modifing the cabinet itself?
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