Audioyin Speakers?

[CrisTUFR]

I was at my local electronics supply shop, and saw a bunch of speakers for sale at a decent price. They are made by a company called Audioyin and each speaker (except for the 12" model) says "Designed by 3F" on the back.

The thing is, they look like they're fairly well-built (for cheap speakers, that is) and have quite a bit of in/out movement on the cones. I have heard anecdotal stories of people who've been buying these things up to muck around with them, but I can't find ANYTHING online about them.

Does anyone here know what the heck these speakers are all about? If I grabbed one, how would I drum up the info I'd need to do some box design around it?

I'll attach a picture of the 6" that I'd like to muck around with...

Cheers,
Chris

[CrisTUFR]

So now that we've demonstrated that these speakers are absolutely and completely unknown, what do you guys suggest would be the worst that could happen if I designed around them?

I guess another way to word that is as follows. How bad can bad speakers be? I'm no audiophile by any means, but I can tell when something sounds more like a clock radio than a decent stereo speaker set.

I will be picking up a few of these drivers to check them out and measure the T/S parameters tonight and get back to you all. We'll see how bad they are soon enough.

Just wondering how bad this experience could possibly be, I guess. Don't want to get my hopes up if there are some *really* bad speakers out there to be purchased...

Thanks,
Chris

[Bill Fitzpatrick]

Without knowing the cone and surround material I can only guess from the size of the magnet that these might be for sound reinforcement use or maybe useful as a woofer.

[CrisTUFR]

The cone appears to be a treated paper. The dust cap is about 2 1/4" wide. Seems to have the ability to push a lot of air, too.

Along with this driver, I purchased a Sharp 25TB374A tweeter. It seems to also work just fine.

I measured the T/S of the driver (except for Vas, since I have no boxes to test in), and got the following:

Qms: 2.69
Qes: 0.69
Qts: 0.55
Fs: 51Hz

Do you guys know of any alternate possible methods of computing Vas without any special equipment, or is it an absolute requirement to build a test box in order to measure that (apparently) crucial number so I can start measuring to build the "real" box?

Any help is appreciated. I'd love to make something decent out of just this woofer and a tweeter. Plugging both of them in on seperate channels seems to cover about all the range I'd need, and it's just "hot" in the mids. I'm sure an adequate crossover can make these two parts sing together.

Also, is it commonplace to use the same methods as listed at the ESP page for measuring your own T/S parameters for a tweeter? Is it even necessary?

Thanks,
Chris

[thomas997]

yeah theres a russian forum mentioning an audioyin 10" speaker thats it.

http://forum.ixbt.com/post.cgi?id=print:47:1940

"Well I made it is obtained rather well truth on Audioyin y0&.tsuot;, to obtain lineinuyu ACHKH with one dynamic loudspeaker did not come out it was necessary to 2 to place in the compound (on the level of -db 24 hz, db on moduliu 27-190 hz it came out) Of yashik of 69 liters phase inverter two tunelya with the diameter of "shchmm. Of usilitel to STK4044Xi 100w "

[CrisTUFR]

I found that russian link through Google as well, which didn't enlighten me much. Thank you Babelfish! :P

Anyhoo, the guy at the store I bought them from said that the manufacturer listed in his database is 'North'. Does that ring any bells for anyone?

The speaker itself seems to be quite decent at handling a big hunk of the frequency range. I bet that if I cut it off around 3k Hz or so, it would be well enough to handle most of what I threw at it. The tweeter I'm using also appears to be quite capable, but I'm having a hard time measuring its resonant frequency and -3db points... Some more time graphing things in Excel should help me figure it out and give me a better picture of what's going on.

So has anyone else heard of 'north' as a speaker manufacturer? Anyone? Bueller? GRACE!!

Thanks,
Chris

[CrisTUFR]

Hey guys,

This site has a decent method listed for measuring Vas without the need for a box. I'm on my way, baby!

Chris

[sreten]

Tape the driver to a bucket, a cardboard box anything,
and measure Fb, Fb = Fs x square root (Vas/Vb+1).

The other method is added mass to the cone, measuring F.

Q of 0.55 would normally mean sealed box loading, but as
Fs is quite high, Vas will be low, so reflexing is possible.
But a box = Vas, Q will be 0.78, Fb = 72Hz.
1.5 x Vas is a sensible max volume, Q = 0.72, Fb = 66Hz,
you can just about reflex this, not a standard alignment.
Vb = 1.5 Vas, port f = 37Hz.

sreten.

[CrisTUFR]

So it's not a requirement to use a wooden box? I have some shoeboxes I could probably test with -- would those be accurate/adequate?

If not, I can easily use "known mass" to try this out...

[sreten]

Anything will do as long as its airtight and reasonably stiff, sreten.