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#11 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brisbane, QLD
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CM |
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#12 | |
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diyAudio Member
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5th - thanks for keeping us updated on what you're doing, I look forward to hearing how you use them ![]() Thanks for the WinISD numbers, I *would* look myself, but what with this laziness I'm suffering, in the pre-summer heat....
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The Netherlands (Friesland)
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does anybody recon this audax would be better than the visaton WS13E in my bargain basement 3 way active system. I've seen some positive reports about the visaton, it's only Euro16. The bass in my system will be the monacor sph-135c and the treble will be the audax TM025f1. any thoughts? assuming maplins are still stocking both by the time i get to ordering (asap)! sorry if i am threadjakking.
mark |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: The Netherlands (Friesland)
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the link in my last post doesn't work very well, this WS13E link is more informative. BTW, thanks for the info pinkmouse, i was encoraged to see that maplin had added more tech info with their hi-fi drivers in the last catalogue.
Mark |
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#15 | |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
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So small and so cheap... I've ordered eight
My first DIY speakers use what I believe is the 8" version of this driver, so 4" at one fifth the cost...nice! The 8" has pretty crap bass, and needs a big box, but sounds pleasant enough, I expect a few of these working together will make nicer bass, as there will be more magnet per amount of cone being moved. And much less cone to flex per driver. Ok, I'lll shut up now, before I say something *really* stupid.... I'm thinking maybe 3 per speaker, all doing bass, but the bottom two rolled off from baffle width fr., for baffle step correction. That could sound nice and warm and smooth, I hope.
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
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Hmm, as they're so cheap, and need such small boxes, might it be a nice idea to load each driver slightly differenty, to get smoother bass?
For example, one sealed, two ported - each at a different tuning frequency. This could surely be used to make the speaker's bass a bit more 'exciting'.
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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Ok, maybe 1 sealed in a diddy 5L section, and two ported sharing 16L, tuned to 54hz. And this could all sit in a very small floorstanding box of 14cm width, 25cm depth, and 70cm height (internal). Maybe a little taller and a tweeter would go in the right place.
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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#19 |
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diyAudio Member
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Infact if you wanted you could do this as a three way, MTM or TMM mid/tweeter bit. Then MM on the bottom for the bass.
This way the top MTM/TMM would have the benafit of less bass so less excursion, and thus better midrange. You could also make the box best for mids and not consider bass, fully stuffing it with some good absorbant material. The one problem I would see from wiring a MTM on top and then using two bass units to cover the baffle step so u'd have an MTM.5 way, is overall impedance, it would be really low if everything is parallel wired. If you wired the MTM in series and the .5 MM in series then you would end up with about 6ohm impedance which would be fine. It sounds to me like you would want to use all the mid/bass to do the bass range because that way they would shift more air. Dont really matter theres a whole number of things you could do with them.
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What the hell are you screamin' for? Every five minutes there's a bomb or somethin'! I'm leavin! bzzzz! |
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#20 |
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diyAudio Member
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Good input 5th,
You are right in thinking I'd want as many as possible working on the bass. I'm sort of thinking in terms of comparing these to my 6.5" drivers, and how loud they'll go in the bass, which is not staggeringly loud, but commendable. I think I'd need 6 per speaker to match my 2x6.5", so 3 or 4 would surely be reasonable... especially for a low-cost experiment speaker! And if I did go for 4 per speaker, it could still be a really petite cabinet, with a nice small footprint - easily sellable! The impedance considerations did cross my mind, as did mtm.5!! We are thinking along the same lines, and I like the idea of having the midrange driver tailored more for good mids re. the stuffing. This is one other reason to mix sealed with ported I reckon - the sealed one would be the mid/bass, and could then be stuffed, whereas the ported would require no stuffing, or maybe just some nice carpet underlay on some walls... I think with 4 drivers doing the bass the excursion would be quite small at normal listening levels, hopefully leaving the midrange nicely intact, and then at show-off levels the extra driver will help to pound the chest, lol, well, maaaaybe.
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Faves: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way open baffles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL techniques etc. Meet: UK Northern Meet 2010 |
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