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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

car or PA or home theatre drivers
car or PA or home theatre drivers
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Old 30th April 2002, 10:54 PM   #11
Keld is offline Keld  Sweden
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Borås, Sweden, Tellus

It appears I have some learning to do about drivers before I select something.
A good way to do just that is to play around with something like Unibox
You can check it out it here:http://www.danbbs.dk/~ko/ubmodel.htm
it is very powerfull Excel 2000 spread sheet (3 Mb) . I have learnt "a lot" about driver behavior just by playing around with this (and other simulation programs).

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Old 1st May 2002, 03:08 AM   #12
bostarob is offline bostarob  United States
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Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: New York
I really do not get the point of those thermal ratings, especially on a woofer like the eminence one. The stated woofer operates at full power at less than 50 watts. Are power ratings pointless marketing ploys?
Upstairs I have a 15" woofer with the same size vc, similar motor structure, and a power rating of 400 as opposed to 200 watts! I would wager that the 18 incher can hold it's ground with any comparable woofer, no matter the power "handling", no matter the price.
Concerning the excursion, why not experiment? Maybe buy one 18" sub and see how it compares. Whatever road you may chose with your project, I wish you luck. And, anyone wanting to built such a monstrocity has my deepest respect.
Good luck,
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Old 1st May 2002, 04:36 AM   #13
Kilowatt is offline Kilowatt  United States
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Join Date: Nov 2001
Location: Harlowton, MT, USA
Sensitivity seems to be just as much of an advertising ploy. How is anyone supposed to build a decent system when the driver specs they are given are false? That would be like selling electrolytic caps saying they're rated 75V, 20,000uF when they can really only handle 16V, 2,000uF!

I'm thinking I may lower my crossover frequencies, and use car subs, if I can't find nice pro subs. I will be able to get away with having higher distortion because it will be lower frequecies that are not as important to reproduce accurately. (I'd rather have low distortion at all freqs, though) I would also be able to get away with having lower efficiency, because the big amp's power would be moved down the sprectum and the total system power increased, or maybe kept the same, but that would give lower SPL .

I do have the option of splitting up the big amp's 8 channels with different frequencies, they'll each have an adjustable crossover. I could do, say both bass and midrange with it, and trebble with another amp, or I could divide the bass into two sections, say 20Hz-80Hz, and then 80Hz-250Hz. This might give me some more options. At first, I'll probably just use the big amp for everything.

Thanks for the help and compliments.
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