Hi All
Thought some of you might like a look at my attempt at Cloning Sonus fabers.
I have tried a different approach to curved side issue.
Internal box is trapezoidal in cross section with some spacers over with 3mm MDF is curved.
Over this 3 laminated layers of 3mm MDF will be added.
Voids formed by spacers between curved sides and flat sides of box will be filled with sand.
Finish at this time will most likely be metallic auto paint.
drivers ss8530 + vifa xt25 ring tweet
crossover to be determined but active on the horizon after aleph 5 + P1.7 completed.
Photos follow
Cheers
Thought some of you might like a look at my attempt at Cloning Sonus fabers.
I have tried a different approach to curved side issue.
Internal box is trapezoidal in cross section with some spacers over with 3mm MDF is curved.
Over this 3 laminated layers of 3mm MDF will be added.
Voids formed by spacers between curved sides and flat sides of box will be filled with sand.
Finish at this time will most likely be metallic auto paint.
drivers ss8530 + vifa xt25 ring tweet
crossover to be determined but active on the horizon after aleph 5 + P1.7 completed.
Photos follow
Cheers
Attachments
Looking good!
I recently completed work on a similar enclosure:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31239
How did you find the sides? Difficult?
I tried a variety methods to fix them in place, first off I used wratchet tie downs to try and hold but this gave a less tha perfect result. In the end I used as few screws as possible to acheive the desired results. Not ideal but effective never the less.
I recently completed work on a similar enclosure:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=31239
How did you find the sides? Difficult?
I tried a variety methods to fix them in place, first off I used wratchet tie downs to try and hold but this gave a less tha perfect result. In the end I used as few screws as possible to acheive the desired results. Not ideal but effective never the less.
Hi Shinobiwan
First I tried cutting the mdf into 50mm wide strips and bending them one by one, this was easy but the resultant surface not as good as it could be.
Next i tried a single sheet of 3mm MDf clamped and screwed and nail- this while difficult gave a better result.
I am now trying laminating 3 pieces of MDF in a curved shape for application to the curved carcase - i suspect this may well be the way to go.
you can see the "jig" for the laminating in the background of the following photo
crossover- i am currently playing around with some series crossovers asa well as one based on the Elektor A4 monitor design. (Drivers are currently in another temporary cabinet of same proportions and same internal volume)
I shall also be trying a variation on the "ultimo" design (By Audio Components) which uses the Scanspeak ring tweeter (similar to vifa version-seems to also have same impedence curve) and uses the larger Revelator Bass unit - with same motor I think)
any suggestions welcome..I have no testing gear other than what attached to side of my head and a multimeter
First I tried cutting the mdf into 50mm wide strips and bending them one by one, this was easy but the resultant surface not as good as it could be.
Next i tried a single sheet of 3mm MDf clamped and screwed and nail- this while difficult gave a better result.
I am now trying laminating 3 pieces of MDF in a curved shape for application to the curved carcase - i suspect this may well be the way to go.
you can see the "jig" for the laminating in the background of the following photo
crossover- i am currently playing around with some series crossovers asa well as one based on the Elektor A4 monitor design. (Drivers are currently in another temporary cabinet of same proportions and same internal volume)
I shall also be trying a variation on the "ultimo" design (By Audio Components) which uses the Scanspeak ring tweeter (similar to vifa version-seems to also have same impedence curve) and uses the larger Revelator Bass unit - with same motor I think)
any suggestions welcome..I have no testing gear other than what attached to side of my head and a multimeter
Attachments
Hmmm I would say that you dont need to make the outside "curved" layer that thick. If the internal box is sturdy and your going to fill the cavity with sand, the outside walls only really need to be strong enough to support the sand. The idea I presume being that the sand absorbs the vibrations from the internal enclosure and prevents transmission of these vibrations to the outside air.
Eitherway it might save you some effort of adding a few more layers if its not required.
If someone wants to correct me on this then feel free to do so.
Eitherway it might save you some effort of adding a few more layers if its not required.
If someone wants to correct me on this then feel free to do so.
Hi
I agree, that outer skin does not need to be very thick, but will be so for aesthetic reasons.
These will not be exact clones -rather they are inspired by the sonus form.
Reason for thick sides will become evident in later photos.
form now a photos with sides attached.
Cheers
I agree, that outer skin does not need to be very thick, but will be so for aesthetic reasons.
These will not be exact clones -rather they are inspired by the sonus form.
Reason for thick sides will become evident in later photos.
form now a photos with sides attached.
Cheers
Attachments
Hi
I can't see any problem with masonite as long as it isn't too hard to bend- and if it hold together in the process.
Whatever works i suppose and also depends on look you're trying to achieve.
The sand filling will hopefully help control/minmize cabinet vibration anyway......I'm no expert - just trying what works for me.
I can't see any problem with masonite as long as it isn't too hard to bend- and if it hold together in the process.
Whatever works i suppose and also depends on look you're trying to achieve.
The sand filling will hopefully help control/minmize cabinet vibration anyway......I'm no expert - just trying what works for me.
Attachments
Very nice George, quite similar to some I made last year. What I was wondering is how did you manage to cut off the excess on the curved sides to make them flush with the front baffle? With somewhat limited resources I had a hell of a time because a curved side is very difficult to work with. I ended up using a lot of expensive filler in order to fill in my mistakes!!!
And I used 5 sheets of 3mm mdf laminated. It used LOTS of glue! But then my curved sides were the only external wall, they did not have the same internal construction as yours. But don't worry, you can't make the sides too thick, only too thin.
And I used 5 sheets of 3mm mdf laminated. It used LOTS of glue! But then my curved sides were the only external wall, they did not have the same internal construction as yours. But don't worry, you can't make the sides too thick, only too thin.
Hi Akiwiskibum (just visiting or adding to our population?-I'm in Adelaide)
Sides will be flushed with careful use of a belt sander (variable speed) works a treat - did this on flushing up ends of internal carcase.
Hopefully only filler will be on screw holes and filling minor voids in laminations.
May use "nordsjo" filler instead of two pack car filler - but not sure yet .
BTW -the internal constrution was an attempt to cut down parallel sides
Good luck
Sides will be flushed with careful use of a belt sander (variable speed) works a treat - did this on flushing up ends of internal carcase.
Hopefully only filler will be on screw holes and filling minor voids in laminations.
May use "nordsjo" filler instead of two pack car filler - but not sure yet .
BTW -the internal constrution was an attempt to cut down parallel sides
Good luck
Hi All
just an update on the clonii fabers.
after many month of no movemnt they are back from the spray painters.
Finish is a fine metallic silver with a clear coat over.(spouse insisted on getting them done professionally!)
Next step is inserting baffle between front wings and formation of grille assembly (nylon cords of course)
Crossover space is in base of cabinet with leg/supports yet to be constructed
just an update on the clonii fabers.
after many month of no movemnt they are back from the spray painters.
Finish is a fine metallic silver with a clear coat over.(spouse insisted on getting them done professionally!)
Next step is inserting baffle between front wings and formation of grille assembly (nylon cords of course)
Crossover space is in base of cabinet with leg/supports yet to be constructed
Attachments
Hi All
Just thought I'd post some additional views as the project has (slowly) progressed
the speakers are now functional and awaiting grilles (yes to be modelled on the Sonus type . I will use 2mm diam hat elastic for cords..)
Baffle fronts and top are covered in a vinyl leatherette which looks better in real life than in photos
Sides are not yet filled with sand and crossovers (while temporary an awaiting active versions) have been tweaked over last few weeks to get some agreeable sound out of them.
The XT25's are hard to work with and all tuning is by ear..
There are 2 sets of bnding posts on rear ( cheap knock-off's of WBT's i think) just below relex port.
images attached
Just thought I'd post some additional views as the project has (slowly) progressed
the speakers are now functional and awaiting grilles (yes to be modelled on the Sonus type . I will use 2mm diam hat elastic for cords..)
Baffle fronts and top are covered in a vinyl leatherette which looks better in real life than in photos
Sides are not yet filled with sand and crossovers (while temporary an awaiting active versions) have been tweaked over last few weeks to get some agreeable sound out of them.
The XT25's are hard to work with and all tuning is by ear..
There are 2 sets of bnding posts on rear ( cheap knock-off's of WBT's i think) just below relex port.
images attached
Attachments
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