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I am planning to build a large reference 5 way speaker and would like to read your recommendations based on your experience.
This large speaker should be able to accurately reproduce church organ from 20 or 25hz. The subwoofer unit's crossover frequency will be around 200-250Hz.
The enclosure size should ideally be around 100-120 litres, bass reflex (for increased efficiency - around 90-92db).
I am thinking to use double Seas L26 10inch drivers per channel, because of the very stiff cone (low distortion).
Aesthetics is another point of consideration for my project. I would prefer to use shallow drivers like dayton LS10 or LS12 or carbon-fibre and avoid black plastic-looking cones.
If extended, accurate, low distortion 20-25Hz bass is not realistically possible with dual 10inch or single 12inch driver, i could modify the design and use a single 15inch unit.
Looking forward for your recommendations. (Please include Box volume and bass reflex tuning frequency in your answers!)
Many thanks!
ps. My 5 way speaker project is based on sound quality and will be used for reproduction of music (clasical/jazz etc), not for home theater.
This large speaker should be able to accurately reproduce church organ from 20 or 25hz. The subwoofer unit's crossover frequency will be around 200-250Hz.
The enclosure size should ideally be around 100-120 litres, bass reflex (for increased efficiency - around 90-92db).
I am thinking to use double Seas L26 10inch drivers per channel, because of the very stiff cone (low distortion).
Aesthetics is another point of consideration for my project. I would prefer to use shallow drivers like dayton LS10 or LS12 or carbon-fibre and avoid black plastic-looking cones.
If extended, accurate, low distortion 20-25Hz bass is not realistically possible with dual 10inch or single 12inch driver, i could modify the design and use a single 15inch unit.
Looking forward for your recommendations. (Please include Box volume and bass reflex tuning frequency in your answers!)
Many thanks!
ps. My 5 way speaker project is based on sound quality and will be used for reproduction of music (clasical/jazz etc), not for home theater.
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It's too complex what you propose
Beyond three routes, the problems that arise are very difficult, both for the choice of drivers and for the development of the xover.
And the range of sub frequencies should be covered by a dedicated cabinet, speaker and respective amplification.
I think you are asking for an acoustic cabinet "all in one", it is not imposibloe, but too complicated and it will end up being more expensive.
Choose traditional methods, 2 three-way cabinets and subwofers (one or two, there is another problem here)
Beyond three routes, the problems that arise are very difficult, both for the choice of drivers and for the development of the xover.
And the range of sub frequencies should be covered by a dedicated cabinet, speaker and respective amplification.
I think you are asking for an acoustic cabinet "all in one", it is not imposibloe, but too complicated and it will end up being more expensive.
Choose traditional methods, 2 three-way cabinets and subwofers (one or two, there is another problem here)
The 12" $156US Dayton RSS315HFA-8 subwoofer will produce deep bass in a modest volume ported cabinet, BUT with a low'ish 86db efficiency.
The 18" $215US Peavey LoRider 18 woofer will produce deep MUSICAL bass in a LARGE 8cuft volume with 96db efficiency.
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Have you considered a tribute DIY horn design to France's Jean Michel LeCleac'h? The 2" coaxial BMS 4592Nd is under $500US in German shops, and the polar pattern of the JMLC-300 horn will reduce floor & ceiling reflections.
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What would you choose for a massive speaker where money is not an issue?
(Crossover development is not a problem and i would choose different crossover points if needed - for example 80-120Hz instead of 200-250Hz)
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Assuming that you live (as your avatar indicates) in France and you really do not have problems of size and / or budget, it would not complicate my life (I decided this way, when I built DTQWTII), asking for advice (you'll end up confused) or lose too much time .
I would go for a recognized designer and buy a kit that has the best artillery (transducers) known so far to achieve a full-range player cabinet.
Look here: The Loudspeaker
The-Loudspeaker
(Find out if you can descend 20 HZ F3, I see it difficult, you would need a subwofer as I said before, but I can not really say, I have not studied the graphics, and Troels does not usually give data below 200/100 Hz ) he mentions that it is not something real, that it is deceptive, because of the determining influence of the gain of the room, and because he did not have an anechoic camera for his measurements, something very reasonable, IMHO)
If you want to get rid of doubts, you can write to him, he is very attentive and he will answer you as soon as possible.
When I built DTQWTII I thought (as I see you want) that I would have in one construction the whole range of music, which is considered "audible" by humans, according to the traditional standart's, 20-20000 hertz, for music. (systems for HT "play in another league")
It was not like that, and a long time ago I'm suffering for getting the first two musical octaves that
I lack. (The problems of logistics and a very small market here, are a great challenge to find good transducers, but I have no major hurry, it will come, I can live without these very low notes and still enjoy the music).
DTQWTII, was designed for low power valvular amplifiers, if you will use solid state amplification you can go for DTQWTIII, but I would not use more than 100 watts / channel, there is no filter in the midrange transducer. It reaches something lower than my construction, but it is not yet a subwoofer. Those sub-frequencies "play in other leagues", and not all commercial subwofers for HT are for music. Attention to that.
PD: I do not have references of "The loudspeaker", and
I do not perceive any type of commission in this recommendation.
But do not forget to tell us if you decide to go for it.
The best.
Rolando
This drive unit I phenomenal and is capable of producing really good strong bass into the low 20's
Feed it some quality power and be amazed
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(single 12inch or dual 10inch per ch)
Opss, the bass transducer " The loudspeaker " is 18 inches, but ...
There are two ways to get deep bass, (this involves moving massive amounts of air)
Lower diaphragm surface (SD) and greater piston movement (Xmax).
(Greater distortion, smaller box size)
Greater SD and less piston movement.
(less distortion, larger box size)
Opss,
the bass transducer " The loudspeaker " is 18 inches, but ...There are two ways to get deep bass, (this involves moving massive amounts of air)
Lower diaphragm surface (SD) and greater piston movement (Xmax).
(Greater distortion, smaller box size)
Greater SD and less piston movement.
(less distortion, larger box size)
One possible approach would be to use a high efficiency full/wide range driver that can cover 100Hz to around 5KHz then cross to subwoofer drivers on the bottom and a high quality bullet on the top. The biggest problem I see is that a passive crossover that close to the subwoofers' fs is going to ve wonky unless you use an expensive LRC notch filter to partially null the impedance spike.
If you want to cross that high, you need a driver with very low Le, ie a faraday ring in the motor. A very stiff cone also helps, as you noted. My first choice would be one of the Revelator 11" or 13" subwoofers. They will go as low as you want and are very clean up higher. There are lots of high Le subwoofer drivers around that don't sound good above 100Hz.
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