I am new to diyAudio and would like to start my first project. I have completed planning my speaker, but I would like someone to look it over. I know that I will make mistakes, and I am not afraid to scrap everything and restart. Here are my plans
Edit: I remade the crossover without the L-Pad on the woofer, then posted it later on this thread
Thanks! 🙂
Edit: I remade the crossover without the L-Pad on the woofer, then posted it later on this thread
Thanks! 🙂
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No, no, no... forget that 50 W L-pad before the woofer.
Nobody has ever put one...so it's not a good idea.
Nobody has ever put one...so it's not a good idea.
I do not understand the small resistor pads. They cut both drivers about the same (so why do it?), and cut the system impedance near half (so double the amplifier power for the same air-shake).
Yes, we know what they are. You have a lot of very smart people here so please make sure you soak in the info. The question was why do you have the two L-pads there at all?
PRR said:
picowallspeaker said:
Cal Weldon said:
My bad. I put two pads because adding one screwed up the frequency response. I revised the crossover. How is it now?
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I would recommend two channel measurement equipment and good measurement program like ARTA. You have much better chance to succeed with good data from proper measurements.
Why 4ohm tweeter? Why electrolytic cap? Why Lpad on woofer? All these can work just don't understand your reasoning.
You at least now have the tweeter lpad in the right place (ie between the tweeter and the crossover) if before the crossover it will work, but it will cause an impedance dip on the woofer at lower frequencies, and unnecessarily load the amp (I'm guilty of having done the same).
But the values in your lpad seem odd, and your tweeter response is dropping an awful lot... do you even need the lpad on the tweeter as PRR mentioned?
Tony.
But the values in your lpad seem odd, and your tweeter response is dropping an awful lot... do you even need the lpad on the tweeter as PRR mentioned?
Tony.
I didn't really know what values to put into the L-Pad. I want the L-Pad on the tweeter in case the specifications are off. Also, I want the L-Pad because my receiver only has a clunky 2 band equalizer, and I have no idea what frequencies it is adjusting.
I thought the impedance didn't mean to match. I chose the capacitor because it was cheap and had crossover in the name. I got rid of the L-Pad on the woofer.
The impedance does not need to match the woofer but the amp would like it if it's higher. PE has a 28-8 with smaller face plate that you can get closer to the center of the woofer. With the cost of the woofer L-pad gone you can now use that money for a better cap, (think film). See Dayton Audio DC28FT-8 1-1/8" Silk Dome Truncated Tweeter
I decided to start over, using completely different components, and with the knowledge you guys gave me 🙂. I am making a new thread, because otherwise the original post is misleading. Thanks you all!
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