Need advice for 3 way RAAL+SB+SB or peerless

[yoke]

Thanks LineSource

I will go active so it will make things a little less complicated (DSP+hypex)

I was thinking to go with woofer on side...all depending on final design (visual)...

Will take some time for simulations and will get back with some results

 

[Windforce85]

Due to its unusally high BI^2/Re product in relation to cone area and displacement, XLS10 will give you the highest bass efficiency and extension from small cabinet, without doubt. It is beneficial to use it as DSP-equalized sealed sub-bass woofer extension and to pair it with amplifier with high output voltage swing capabilities. NC500MP is perfect match. In comparison to WO24P it will give more sheer low-bass stroke power and perceived 'speed' but at the expense of limited frequency range rather no higher than up to 120 Hz. WO24P is more a woofer than subwoofer. It requires huge cabinet in comparison. And also it is not a small driver itself. Having little more available displacement than capable 8-incher it is nearly as big as XLS10...

 

[yoke]

so I should give up on RAAL and go with
XLS10 + Satori 16P + Satori Beryllium
(active)

as I see 16P plays nice with Beryllium and it goes deep for nice overlap with XLS

will think for some time

 

[cOz]

Yoke, first things first, as they say. Get to know useful excel based simulators from J.Bagby, Woofer Box and Circuit Designer, Response Modeler, Passive Crossover Designer, XSim by B.Waslo, find tracing program FPGraphTracer, a textual editor and invest the time to design a virtual loudspeaker first. You can design any LT, active, passive filters, EQ etc. You have got a lot of already good components, except midrange units.

It’s this realization of the enormity of the task which makes my brain scream, buy a kit by the very people who built the tools...

 

[yoke]

It’s this realization of the enormity of the task which makes my brain scream, buy a kit by the very people who built the tools...

Where's the fun in that ?

 

[Lojzek]

It’s this realization of the enormity of the task which makes my brain scream, buy a kit by the very people who built the tools...

Normally a very good advice for a beginner but the average DIYer desires so much more, to master the art of loudspeaker design, to be in control to decide what's more important etc.

 

[LineSource]

The wider ribbon RAAL 70x40XR shows good measurements/distortion for ~2.5kHz crossovers. Using LR4@2.4kHz looks like a good match to the sealed box midrange Satori MR16P-4 which reaches -F3=92Hz ... a good target for a sealed woofer.

For comparison, the sealed box midwoofer Satori MW16P-4 reaches -F3=77Hz.

 

[yoke]

The wider ribbon RAAL 70x40XR shows good measurements/distortion for ~2.5kHz crossovers. Using LR4@2.4kHz looks like a good match to the sealed box midrange Satori MR16P-4 which reaches -F3=92Hz ... a good target for a sealed woofer.

For comparison, the sealed box midwoofer Satori MW16P-4 reaches -F3=77Hz.

Thanks LS
I have problem with comunication with Raal...so it mide take some time...

For now will try SB berillyum, that will save me some money...


And I can borrow one mw16p...so will be abile to play around...

That was not "the plan" ... but, will do the trick

 

[newfinish]

HI!
I'm using the satori mw19 with hi-vi 1.3 planar tweeter and was wondering how does it do with the xls? i was going to try what i had on the shelf, a dayton rs265ho 4 ohm sub with passive or a 12'' css sdx with passive also. i did a passif xover with the mid and tweeter but but i have the option of going all dsp multi amp, what are the dsp around? i was looking for a dbx 360 because i,m all balanced but if there,s another alternative i,m open!!

 

[yoke]

I'm useing this one (DSP)...
Hi-end DSP based multi-channel integrated Preamp/Crossover/DAC project

Analog-Precision

 

[yoke]

the summer have pass
and I build some small clone of boenicke w5
fun projekt

and now I'm back with some more tots about this new build

so for now, plan is ;
SB acoustics beryllium tweeter 29BN - have them
+ MW16P -have to buy them
+ XLS 10 - have them
+ Hypex PSC2.400 - have them / the one with only analog inputs (don't have digital inputs)

Hypex PSC2.400 have two channels and the plan is that one will drive mid/bass and twitter with passive crossover in be twin
and the otherwill drive XLS10 with DSP control

cabinet will not be anything complicated
just 19mm MDF with double on front
wide of something like 19cm
hight of 100cm
and depth of around 40cm

Cabinet for 16P mid bass will be around 18L (thinking about closed - but could always add port)
and for subwoofer XLS 10 around 20-25L closed

I think it will do the trick
now I have to collect some money to buy mdf and a pair of 16P
will get back once I proceed with build

 

[yoke]

by the way, as I'm no good with passive crossover I think this will be some Frankenstein of Jeff's Kairos or Joachim Gerhard Kalasan or the one from SB acoustics kit ARA...

and will do some cabinet model...before final build

no hurry

edit
link to hypex plate amp
https://www.hypex.nl/documenten/download/931

 

[enricofiocco]

The WO24P in a cleverly designed sealed cabinet can produce clean transients, plus handle the power required for active bass equalization.

Hey Linesource, what do you mean by cleverly designed?
Can you do an example?

 

[yoke]

Hi all
It's been I while since I open this tread
would like to say thanks once again for help and advices

here are some pictures of work in progress and final results

The loudspeakers are based on Peerless XLS10, Satori 16P-4 and Satori BE (4ohm)
I'm using ARA BE passive crossover ( from SBacoustics site) be twin Satori, but have remove notch filter plus added some more attenuation on tweeter.
All is driven via Hypex plate amplifier PSC2.400 which are 2xUCD 400 (400W amplifiers) with DSP.
One channel, with linkwitz transform, is used for driving peerless XLS10, while other is driving Satori pasive combo.
Crossover point in be twin is LR4 at 140Hz.

I like the sound and it was fun project

Here ara some pictures and measurement which I made at open space, at not perfect condition (have had some fence in front of loudspeakers/tweeter) but thay are good enough for me, to see what is going on at low end.

 

[yoke]

some more pictures

 

[yoke]

measurements