Re MCM qts: no surprise on that, though a little more ferrite in the motor shouldn't cost so much. I've never bought anything there, since back in the day my customers put up the bucks for the audax/seas/scanspeak drivers I was playing with, and I got spoiled. Most of the lesser (cheaper) stuff arrived with fs about 50% higher than stated in their specs.
The little Visaton is interesting and affordable. I no longer have patrons funding scanspeak purchases.
The little Visaton is interesting and affordable. I no longer have patrons funding scanspeak purchases.
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The QTs on MCM drivers rarely comes out as stated. Just FYI.
-those measured with Clio shouldn't be that far off (assuming a similar "run-in" before measurement), UNLESS the manufacturing is off.
-the problem with manufacturing being off on such a cheap driver is returning it, it would cost to much shipping to get a replacement.
-sort of an expected silk purse and a resulting sow's ear situation.
Note: some of those small "fullrange" Peerless drivers are better than Visaton (in linearity and non-linearity).
Well, it *is* supposed to be a challenge.
I have not chosen any one route yet, I have a "no more new drivers purchased" agreement, I keep my agreements. So will have to find a suitable victim that wants some new speakers. Need to spend time on finding the best possible choices and selling the idea to whoever might bite.
I have not chosen any one route yet, I have a "no more new drivers purchased" agreement, I keep my agreements. So will have to find a suitable victim that wants some new speakers. Need to spend time on finding the best possible choices and selling the idea to whoever might bite.
You boys had better get on the stick...
Here's another Grand Appalachian Design that works rather well..
A couple Dollar Tree buys, A battery box with a switch, 3.5mm stereo chassis jack, Bluetooth receiver (Cable included), Cardboard box, 3"x5" GRS car speaker, Sheet of foam board, Tube of silicone sealer, And, of course, A dab of spray truck bed liner..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/3UwDqg.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/923/cuKPMM.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/mx7pNV.jpg
Here's another Grand Appalachian Design that works rather well..
A couple Dollar Tree buys, A battery box with a switch, 3.5mm stereo chassis jack, Bluetooth receiver (Cable included), Cardboard box, 3"x5" GRS car speaker, Sheet of foam board, Tube of silicone sealer, And, of course, A dab of spray truck bed liner..
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/3UwDqg.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/923/cuKPMM.jpg
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q90/924/mx7pNV.jpg
Who remembers the NSB's ???
4" Extended Range Driver
I have a case and extras left over, 38 total iirc. They were $.90 ea but that was 10+ years ago. I wonder if any of the current buyout speakers they have are ready to become the next 'cult classic'
4" Extended Range Driver
I have a case and extras left over, 38 total iirc. They were $.90 ea but that was 10+ years ago. I wonder if any of the current buyout speakers they have are ready to become the next 'cult classic'
Shipping is a real killer to this total budget.
Good news! Shipping costs, taxes, etc are exempt from the budget.
Thought I'd post what I've done so far. Not giving away the exact drivers, but it is a peerless and a visaton. As I said my entry will be a non-qualifying simulation only. Total driver cost is a tad under $22 US leaving me with $8 for crossover components, which I haven't checked on the cost yet but should hopefully be doable.
I think off axis would probably be a bit ordinary, and power handling pretty low, but within the constraints I think coming along ok. Note That this sim fully accounts for the baffle as well.
Tony.
I think off axis would probably be a bit ordinary, and power handling pretty low, but within the constraints I think coming along ok. Note That this sim fully accounts for the baffle as well.
Tony.
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Different schools of thought around this. One is to have flat on axis (anechoically) and use EQ to make a room curve for the specific room.
Another is to bake it into the crossover, though that is more appropriate for a particular room and may be too much or too little depending on the room the speaker is used in.
I put a slight down slope in the one I posted above, but I have in the past gone for flat on axis. The other thing that can happen (which would be exacerbated by down slope from 20 hz to 20Khz) is that due to room modes and speaker placement related room gain, you may end up with too much bass.
Tony.
Another is to bake it into the crossover, though that is more appropriate for a particular room and may be too much or too little depending on the room the speaker is used in.
I put a slight down slope in the one I posted above, but I have in the past gone for flat on axis. The other thing that can happen (which would be exacerbated by down slope from 20 hz to 20Khz) is that due to room modes and speaker placement related room gain, you may end up with too much bass.
Tony.
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