The low 86db SPL sensitivity of the SD215a-88 Subwoofer makes it a poor passive crossover match with a 88.5db midrange. Unless you bi-amp, you would have to attenuate the mid and tweet about 4-5db.
The 91db sensitivity Dayton RS225-4 aluminum cone woofer looks like a good match for your goals.
Dayton Audio RS225-4 8" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm 91db sensitivity Part # 295-376 Fs=33Hz Re=3.2ohms. -F3=35Hz(good bass) in a 1.5cuft ported cabinet
YOUR AMPLIFIER MUST EASILY DRIVE 4-ohm LOADs.
These are popular drivers, and you might find a proven crossover for this combination. OTHERWISE..
VituixCAD is an EXCELLENT FREE speaker design package. Parts Express website provides the Dayton FRD ZMA data files required
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To reduce cabinet edge diffraction, some small 3-way designs build a beveled edge "truncated pyramid" style cabinet, or route large radius quarter-rounds into the edges.
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-ND25FA-4 Tweeter Re=3.2ohms 90db
-RSP100P-4 or nd105-4 mid speaker Re=3ohms 88.5db
-SD215a-88 Subwoofer Re=3.2ohms, SPL = 86db
The 91db sensitivity Dayton RS225-4 aluminum cone woofer looks like a good match for your goals.
Dayton Audio RS225-4 8" Reference Woofer 4 Ohm 91db sensitivity Part # 295-376 Fs=33Hz Re=3.2ohms. -F3=35Hz(good bass) in a 1.5cuft ported cabinet
YOUR AMPLIFIER MUST EASILY DRIVE 4-ohm LOADs.
These are popular drivers, and you might find a proven crossover for this combination. OTHERWISE..
VituixCAD is an EXCELLENT FREE speaker design package. Parts Express website provides the Dayton FRD ZMA data files required
==============
To reduce cabinet edge diffraction, some small 3-way designs build a beveled edge "truncated pyramid" style cabinet, or route large radius quarter-rounds into the edges.
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-ND25FA-4 Tweeter Re=3.2ohms 90db
-RSP100P-4 or nd105-4 mid speaker Re=3ohms 88.5db
-SD215a-88 Subwoofer Re=3.2ohms, SPL = 86db
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Assuming this will use a passive crossover? Are you familiar with what is often called baffle step correction and how it determines desirable relative woofer and mid sensitivities and to some extent baffle width? If not, I would suggest finding out a bit about it before trying to pick suitable drivers.
The low 86db SPL sensitivity of the SD215a-88 Subwoofer makes it a poor passive crossover match with a 88.5db midrange. Unless you bi-amp, you would have to attenuate the mid and tweet about 4-5db.
rather poor advice to OP.....nothing wrong with attenuating mid and tweeter to match bass. (read up on midrange gain in 3 way design, too....)
OP needs to find a good mentor , first design 3 way is no joke to get right, rather find a reputable kit to build out
rather poor advice to OP.....nothing wrong with attenuating mid and tweeter to match bass. (read up on midrange gain in 3 way design, too....)
OP needs to find a good mentor , first design 3 way is no joke to get right, rather find a reputable kit to build out
Can you find examples of competent 3 way designs that pad down a woofer? What power rating for the resistors would you choose?
Desktop speakers where the user sits about 1m away often target about 105dB maximum SPL (excluding what would be handled by a sub). What would be a reasonable equivalent for a 3 way with the listener 3 to 4m away in a reasonable sized room?
When a person designs their first 3 way mistakes should be expected. Too much preparation is likely to lead to the speaker never getting built but without some knowledge of the issues involved the resulting speaker is likely to perform relatively poorly. Perhaps that is fine for a first go so long as something to learn from is built fairly quickly and cheaply.
Desktop speakers where the user sits about 1m away often target about 105dB maximum SPL (excluding what would be handled by a sub). What would be a reasonable equivalent for a 3 way with the listener 3 to 4m away in a reasonable sized room?
When a person designs their first 3 way mistakes should be expected. Too much preparation is likely to lead to the speaker never getting built but without some knowledge of the issues involved the resulting speaker is likely to perform relatively poorly. Perhaps that is fine for a first go so long as something to learn from is built fairly quickly and cheaply.
You have a good point. Honestly when i heard the klipsch rp15m pair i went nuts when i saw it would cost me 2k to get 4 of em plus 4 subwoofers so i tought why not make my own although i came to the realization its not gonna be as easy as make a crossover. So i probably am gonna give up and pay.
At the cheaper 2 way end of the market the parts for a DIY speaker are likely to cost more than an assembled speaker. This is fine if you are DIYing for fun but makes little sense if you are DIYing to save money. DIY starts to win economically when larger speakers are competently designed and competently built.
If powerful 32Hz bass is one of your goals, you can add a second Dayton 8" RS225-8 woofer as executed in the Dennis Murphy design fully described in Htguide.com "Dayton RS TMWW" You will also find info on diyAudio.
Astaro in post #11 describes a similar design with a newer tweeter. Two 8" woofers have the same cone area as one 12" woofer.
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