Suppose the cones of the two oppositely facing drivers move outwards, then the reaction force on each cabinet side wall would be inwards.
Similarly, the cabinet walls would be forced outwards when the cones move inwards.
As the driver cones vibrate in and out, so too will the cabinet walls, but with a smaller amplitude.
Horizontal bracing of the cabinet walls is used to help control this type of wall vibration.
So I don't think spiking would be be any more or any less useful than it is for a 'normal' configuration.
Anyone better able to discuss this?
Similarly, the cabinet walls would be forced outwards when the cones move inwards.
As the driver cones vibrate in and out, so too will the cabinet walls, but with a smaller amplitude.
Horizontal bracing of the cabinet walls is used to help control this type of wall vibration.
So I don't think spiking would be be any more or any less useful than it is for a 'normal' configuration.
Anyone better able to discuss this?
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I would spike them, as I'm guessing a low crossover point. Leaving your mid/bass without this physical cancellation, but still expected to move about a fair bit. Obviously you want the cone moving, not the box, if your going to these lengths. It's quite high up so has some leverage, when we look at the carpet as your pivot point. Though is it a big soft carpet, or concrete tiles.
Spikes look great anyway. Regardless
Spikes look great anyway. Regardless
Nevermind
Can anyone make sense of this? What Do Speaker Spikes Actually Do & Do I Need Them? | Ledger Note
11.2g ? Man, there going to fall over lol
Do you have a paving slab? You could try no spikes, then on a slab. If the slab is better, perhaps spikes would help. I doubt you will get a better footing from spikes though if I'm honest. Less contact area, but just as firm. They do look nice, but then I guess your floor does to.
Just thinking out loud here. A spike that was actually rounded not pointed could work on a hard surface. Some machine feet have a ball and socket kind of swivel, that could be taken apart to be just a ball on a threaded rod. I bet some car part, or rather model part, could also be similar. I'm scratching my head for ideas though.
Spikes sit in cups on nice floors. Cups could be routed into the cab, so it stands on loose ball bearings. That might have an interesting look, but no adjustment, so just 3 feet. A bit unstable? I guess so
Do you have a paving slab? You could try no spikes, then on a slab. If the slab is better, perhaps spikes would help. I doubt you will get a better footing from spikes though if I'm honest. Less contact area, but just as firm. They do look nice, but then I guess your floor does to.
Just thinking out loud here. A spike that was actually rounded not pointed could work on a hard surface. Some machine feet have a ball and socket kind of swivel, that could be taken apart to be just a ball on a threaded rod. I bet some car part, or rather model part, could also be similar. I'm scratching my head for ideas though.
Spikes sit in cups on nice floors. Cups could be routed into the cab, so it stands on loose ball bearings. That might have an interesting look, but no adjustment, so just 3 feet. A bit unstable? I guess so
Properly executed, side-side counter-force woofers will remove the main cabinet vibrations. For hard floor isolation, consider 3-4 neopreme rubber(old mouse pads) pads. On carpets, purchase the 2" x 2" square plastic spiked "carpet cups" and put a rubber pad between the cup and cabinet.
With side-side woofers, the front baffle can accept LARGE radius rounds or bevels to dramatically reduce edge diffraction. $120K Magico engineers like rounds. Beach Boys also like to "get a-round"
With side-side woofers, the front baffle can accept LARGE radius rounds or bevels to dramatically reduce edge diffraction. $120K Magico engineers like rounds. Beach Boys also like to "get a-round"
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I'm sorry, It was a poorly executed joke. A crazy exaggeration. I don't think your idea fall down. I was talking about the box, with it's extremely low chance of showing any real vibration problems from such a low moving mass. But I turn the idea on it's head, and joke the box will fall over.
I can't imagine them walking along the floor like a badly balanced washing machine. No.
Sorry for the confusion.
I really think you will need to try them. But likely won't see a difference on such a surface. There is no danger of them falling over, that is for sure.
Edit: I missed a few posts. Isolating then further, rather than making a firmer connection, would give noticeable results of some sort. Your floor might be nicely faced chipboard, floating on cushioning already. Which is hard to quantify. Maybe it seems loose and easy to shake, or maybe it's well damped. There is quite a range of wooden floors available.
I can't imagine them walking along the floor like a badly balanced washing machine. No.
Sorry for the confusion.
I really think you will need to try them. But likely won't see a difference on such a surface. There is no danger of them falling over, that is for sure.
Edit: I missed a few posts. Isolating then further, rather than making a firmer connection, would give noticeable results of some sort. Your floor might be nicely faced chipboard, floating on cushioning already. Which is hard to quantify. Maybe it seems loose and easy to shake, or maybe it's well damped. There is quite a range of wooden floors available.
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Oh, yeah I knew they won't actually fall over but I thought you ment to say there will be vibrations caused by the larger mid woofer and it's moving mass is terribly high. I reacted like this because I just made the decision to use this bigger mid woofer to compensate for the lower crossover frequency of the subs in comparison to my previous concept and to be honest mainly because a 5" on this huge baffle just looked silly knowing it will have this disadvantage.
Think of it this way: any motion of the cone relative to your head which is not caused by the force of the voice coil in the magnetic gap is distortion. Decoupling the speaker from the floor means the speaker can move relative to your head... which is distortion.
So you want to put a heavy cinderblock on top of your speaker so the box doesn't move. If your speaker is on carpet or otherwise not fixed to the floor, then spikes into the wood floor can help.
Unrealistic to suppose you can control movement dynamically by using nominally counter-acting drivers since you never can count on equivalence.
B.
So you want to put a heavy cinderblock on top of your speaker so the box doesn't move. If your speaker is on carpet or otherwise not fixed to the floor, then spikes into the wood floor can help.
Unrealistic to suppose you can control movement dynamically by using nominally counter-acting drivers since you never can count on equivalence.
B.
I think the speakers look the part. There really isn't much more to do to them.
I can't see a mathematical formula is going to appear here. Just logic and reasoning. If you set them in a few ton's of concrete, you could be quite certain they won't shake it. Making the drivers do all the movement. This isn't ever the plan though (though never say never). Here we walk an uncertain line, of just how damping your floor is going to be. Or in fact, will it start playing along and require rugs. There could be a concrete sub-floor, or maybe we are upstairs in a wooden frame building.
Right now, my speakers are on foam, because there on top of furniture that was playing along with the midrange. They sound better on foam, by a large amount. It's not technically correct though, it's just how they work here. In the past they have stood on wooden floors and I loved the bass from a good coupling. On carpet over concrete was the only time spikes tightened things up. Pretty much across the spectrum.
The floor is going to be part of your speaker if you couple with it. It's a really important part of the puzzle, I just can't quantify.
I really don't see how anyone can give a definitive answer to the effect spikes will have in your situation, because the facts are unclear.
The answer is to prepare the cabs for spikes, because you may want them one day. Only once in a room, will you know that day has come, or you need a selection of squash balls/underlay/.... For experimentation
I can't see a mathematical formula is going to appear here. Just logic and reasoning. If you set them in a few ton's of concrete, you could be quite certain they won't shake it. Making the drivers do all the movement. This isn't ever the plan though (though never say never). Here we walk an uncertain line, of just how damping your floor is going to be. Or in fact, will it start playing along and require rugs. There could be a concrete sub-floor, or maybe we are upstairs in a wooden frame building.
Right now, my speakers are on foam, because there on top of furniture that was playing along with the midrange. They sound better on foam, by a large amount. It's not technically correct though, it's just how they work here. In the past they have stood on wooden floors and I loved the bass from a good coupling. On carpet over concrete was the only time spikes tightened things up. Pretty much across the spectrum.
The floor is going to be part of your speaker if you couple with it. It's a really important part of the puzzle, I just can't quantify.
I really don't see how anyone can give a definitive answer to the effect spikes will have in your situation, because the facts are unclear.
The answer is to prepare the cabs for spikes, because you may want them one day. Only once in a room, will you know that day has come, or you need a selection of squash balls/underlay/.... For experimentation
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