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#11 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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Yeah 1 cuft is ridiculous for a 4" driver, even for 2,
You should be looking at a sealed box, reflexing will just give you a boom box. Sealed box 0.3 cuft for 2 drivers Q = 1. And you'll need BSC, has to be near 6dB or you won't match the tweeter sensitivity, here you don't have much choice. Build your subwoofer it its a learning exercise, with the box volume far better optimisations in terms of efficiency and extension are possible with suitable drivers. An isobaric is -6dB in efficiency and maximum output. No commercial manafacturer has ever sold a reflexed isobaric. You'll find near identical performance possible with a single driver at double the efficiency as impedance is double. Also for a good match with the TB's you"ll need two V/J's in parallel. sreten.
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#12 |
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diyAudio Member
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I suppose building a sealed box would be smarter... I just was hoping to get usable bass out of these without a sub. But hey... these are "experimentation" speakers, so I'll try a few different configurations.
I'm still thinking about the sub, and it seems that with active equalization, doing a non-isobarac enclosure would make sense, but without having the ability to build the active filter makes it hard to get the low frequency extention without a huge box or going isobarac. I can understand why OEMs don't use an isobarac design. With their resources, building an active filter to compensate for a small enclosure is much less expensive than using a 2nd woofer. But... I just went back and looked at my design. There was one thing I didn't notice until now... port length. With a 2" port, I'm going to need a length of 26". That'll be hard to fit into an 8" cube. With a 1" port I'll need a little over 6". A 1" port should make plenty of port noise! I think I just bought 4 $6 paper weights.
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#13 |
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diyAudio Member
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Damn!
I just realized that I've done all this box modeling with the other 4.5" jbl/vifa. The one I ordered is a piece of junk! I guess I'll be sending some of this stuff back. :-/ |
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#14 |
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diyAudio Member
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Oops!
__________________
Fave. threads: Marantz CD63 | Philips CD650 | my 3-way dipoles | T-bass for dipoles | EnABL treatment | Arcam Alpha (CD) |
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#15 |
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diyAudio Member
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It may not be all that bad. I called PE but they already shipped it. If I build a narrow enough box, I may be able to use the big bump below 900hz as a baffle step compensation.
![]() If not, they'll make nice Christmas presents! |
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#16 |
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diyAudio Member
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I didn't plan to bring this thread back from the dead, but now that it's being referenced in another "NSB" thread, I wanted to provide an update.
After Jeff B released his excel crossover program, I plugged all of my data into it to see what things looked like compared to my crude spreadsheet design. Surprisingly, my crossover modeled flat to +/- 4.5dB over the bandwidth range. Better than I thought, but I could also see why the mids were so "shouty". The 6dB/octave cap wasn't sufficiently attenuating the bump at the low end of the tweeter's spectrum. I added a shunt .15mH inductor on the tweeter circuit, and also added a series 2 ohm resistor with the NSBs to flatten out a lower midrange bump. Of course, the 2 ohm resistor is going to raise the qts, so I may not have actually gained anything... we'll see. It'll be easy enough to remove if necessary. I haven't listened to the new crossover yet (hopefully tonight), but here is a schematic. According to Jeff B's spreadsheet, this models flat +/- 2dB over the spectrum. |
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#17 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: PA
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Can you fill me in on the spreedsheat you are talking about?
I've tried to search, but I can't find anything on the forum. I just want to make sure I'm not missing some cool tool. Thanks |
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#18 |
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diyAudio Member
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It's been discussed extensively at the madisound forum. Currently it's not available because he pulled it to work out a couple bugs.
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