Klipsch Jubilee Clone Build factfinding mission

If you have the space, you might look at their MWM cabinets. Bigger horn, single OR double driver design.... and in my mind (as an owner of Jubilee's for over a decade) can stomp all over the Jubilee.

They are however, really really really big..... something like six feet wide, four feet deep (if you took their design to a full "squared" back design, since it's truncated it might not be that deep) and 18 or 36 inches tall, depending if you go single or double driver.

They are however, absolutely effortless with their output.

Disclaimer: I'll admit I don't know/understand enough about designs to know how it would interact with low powered amps.... they are however, very sensitive.

Has anyone measured if there is a directivity match between the MWM bass horn and K-402? Seems there are a few people at the Klipsch forum doing this but I've never seen the measurements.

Edit: I am planning to use a straight bass horn below the K-402. Just not entirely convinced that tapped/folded horns should be operating into the midrange frequencies.
 
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two University Classics per side would do "something" and 4 cabinets occupy ~67 cubic foot of a room and 60" wide / 40" tall / 24" deep for one pair turned on their sides. I still have some dimensions on Ben Drisko's 1948 "Dripschorn" cornerhorn - think it used a mix of flares - don't have a scanner anymore. It appeared to be made of three 4'x8' sheets of 5/8" particleboard and about 52.5" tall

there was a horn plan with major expansion section made of one piece of plywood which mounted in the corner and had exit at the floor - what was that ?
 
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Has anyone measured if there is a directivity match between the MWM bass horn and K-402?


Those measurements are available via EASE files online.


Edit: I am planning to use a straight bass horn below the K-402. Just not entirely convinced that tapped/folded horns should be operating into the midrange frequencies.


That's too bad. With a separate straight midbass horn (~70-200 Hz) you're going to get issues with coverage from the midbass vs. midrange (even if time aligned), loss of boundary gain, significant loss of floor space, as well as a fairly unsightly result.


A single horn as a point source that controls its polars down to below 100 Hz has real advantages. You should hear one. I recommend a pair of Danley SH-96s in the room corners.



YMMV.


Chris
 
Actually, the idea is that you should aim for smooth expansion with the fewest sudden jumps or flat (zero) expansion rate. The La Scala bass bin has one small jump in expansion and one area of zero expansion.



The places to look the most carefully are at the turns and the local minima of cross sectional area to see if you can make the cross sectional area expansion rate as smooth as possible from the throat to the mouth. It's really just a paper plot exercise and the willingness to adjust the dimensions of the DIY Jubilee cross section drawing that you see online. Little changes in dimension add up to big potential gains in performance.



Also, be extremely careful to seal the back chamber behind the woofers until it's air tight. This includes the woofer mounting surface to the plywood and the drivers' surrounds on the woofers with rubber cement, etc. if they've got pin hole leaks. The test for air tightness used to be to depress the woofer in the back chamber direction, then count the number of seconds until the woofer returns to normal position. Three to five seconds is a good number. (This can only be done with a partially assembled bass bin that allows access to the woofer to push on it before the structure of the bass bin folds precludes you being able to do this manually.)


Also be careful with the area just around the woofer baffle slot - make sure that no obstructions or rubbing against the woofer cones/surrounds exist and that the cones don't touch any plywood structure even when exercise to their xmax values (either in positive or negative stroke directions).



Chris

Chris - most helpful - I get you. Thanks for that.
 
That's too bad. With a separate straight midbass horn (~70-200 Hz) you're going to get issues with coverage from the midbass vs. midrange (even if time aligned), loss of boundary gain, significant loss of floor space, as well as a fairly unsightly result.


A single horn as a point source that controls its polars down to below 100 Hz has real advantages. You should hear one. I recommend a pair of Danley SH-96s in the room corners.



YMMV.


Chris

I would be crossing over much higher than 200 Hz, somewhere closer to K-402 cut off, and it won't extend as far down either. Would be using multiple subwoofers below the midbass (I suppose upper midbass is more accurate) horn. There is one design I've seen where there is excellent directivity match with the K-402 around 500 Hz.
 
When i was researching building my replica K402's, I looked into a full jubilee setup but opted to use single 15" BR cabinets underneath. With a DSP crossover it was easy and the setup went loud enough for me and lower than it would have with a jubilee bass bin

A klipsch alternate solution with the K402 horn would be the KPT-942-M

There are alternate bass bins you can look at, but there are going to be compromises in terms of size and/or complexity - the california bass bins seem to do 50-500, are easier to build but are fairly big
 
fwiw I say the Classic ~ = to Beck's California by Hornresp

TB46's smooth model of the California may make the minute
difference in the plots


I reduced the Classic back chamber size to equal that of
Beck's horn's back chamber for some comparisons
and used a JBL M151 as that's a driver I have laying around.

nShU7e9.jpg
 
...Greg Roberts from Volti Audio...he's developed a variation on the Jubilee called Jamboree.


Actually, to give proper credit where it's due I believe that the Jamboree is a Dana Moore design. Greg R built a pair a long time ago and didn't apparently like them. The Jamborees have the same basic folded horn design as the other "W" section folded bass bins.


post-16499-1381931839829.jpg


To the OP: I've helped EQ Jubilee bass bins for more than a dozen Jub owners, and the -3 dB point in at least one room was measured at 25 Hz. The installation listening room of interest has two full corners and room dimensions that support that low frequency.


I don't know of many vented cabinets tuned to that low frequency and certainly none that exhibit clean, tight horn-loaded bass. Rather all the ported cabinets that I've heard have flabby underdamped sounding bass, and also have sharp cutoff frequencies, below which the woofers can easily unload if pushed too far and too low. This isn't true for "W" shaped corner horns.

Personally I get about 31 Hz cutoff frequency with my Jubs located in front of dual subs in the front wall room corners. But instead of using the bass bins down into deep subwoofer territory, instead cross over to dual DIY SPUDs (TH) at 40 Hz to break up the bass band into two to control AM distortion effects--i.e., to eliminate non-harmonic higher frequency sidebands generated by sub-40 Hz moving mass effects. I get about 14 Hz (-3 dB point) out of the SPUDs after nearfield wall stiffeners were added.

Chris
 
I would be crossing over much higher than 200 Hz, somewhere closer to K-402 cut off...


The K-402 doesn't have a "cutoff". The present K-402s are limited only by their 2" compression drivers, most of which don't sound very good below 400-450 Hz.



...Would be using multiple subwoofers below the midbass (I suppose upper midbass is more accurate) horn. There is one design I've seen where there is excellent directivity match with the K-402 around 500 Hz.



The K-402 has clean polars down to below 100 Hz:


666085d1520117279-xsim-3d-development-math-help-402-meh-horizontal-1-jpg
 
Thanks for the excellent information. I am certain now that I will proceed with Jubillee-type bins, K402 horns, with driver combos to be confirmed - but likely a Faital/Crites combo. I will probably ask Mr. Crites to arrange the XO for me.

I am trying to sort 402 horns as I write, but it is proving a little challenging. I am sure I will get there.

I am very lucky in the sense that I have two rooms suitable enough for audio -one very large and one more 'normal' size. It will be interesting to experiment with the Jubs in both. it may be a stretch to achieve corner placement in the big room as it is wider than it is deep, but I can try. Be nice to get right down into the lower registers....

Again, thanks for the info. This thread has proved really helpful to me.
 
Thanks for the excellent information. I am certain now that I will proceed with Jubillee-type bins, K402 horns, with driver combos to be confirmed - but likely a Faital/Crites combo. I will probably ask Mr. Crites to arrange the XO for me.

I am trying to sort 402 horns as I write, but it is proving a little challenging. I am sure I will get there.

I am very lucky in the sense that I have two rooms suitable enough for audio -one very large and one more 'normal' size. It will be interesting to experiment with the Jubs in both. it may be a stretch to achieve corner placement in the big room as it is wider than it is deep, but I can try. Be nice to get right down into the lower registers....

Again, thanks for the info. This thread has proved really helpful to me.

Good choice re Bob Crites. I've used his gear before, including the very decent "Cornscalla" product. Faital Pro HF200 is a great driver. You could always upgrade to Be diaphragm driver down the track for that added bit of sweetness/detail.
 
Thanks Atilsley

Now trying to work through pricing.... Just priced up some BB Plywood....... still recovering from the shock at how much this stuff has gone up in price.. It;s making MDF seem an attractive option, but I can't bring myself to do it!

Stick with ply.

MDF OK for some outer panels requiring painting...but only if thick MDF and braced.
 
Stick with ply.

MDF OK for some outer panels requiring painting...but only if thick MDF and braced.

Thick MDF [double 5/8"] = ~18 mm BB ply's ~1.8 mil MOE, so minimal bracing same as BB, but better overall to use 1/2" BB ply with enough cross bracing to = the mass [weight] of a second sheet of 1/2" BB ply. Now you have the mass and stiffness far exceeding the 18 mm cab and any cab requirements likely to be used in an audio app.

GM