Come on people....can car speakers be used in your house to good results?????EXPERTS! - Page 2 - diyAudio
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Old 14th April 2004, 12:02 PM   #11
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I have been looking for a 12 inch woofer and the car audio stuff has not come up in the specifications or modelling close to the home audio gear. Generally the car audio subs have a higher Fs I think due to the gain you get by using them in a car.

So I suggest horses for courses, I have Kenwood 6x9's in the rear of my car, but am buying an Adire DPL12 for my home sub.

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Old 14th April 2004, 12:07 PM   #12
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Car audio is no different than any other type of consumer commodity. Among the legions of mediocrity, there is the occasional shining star.

Automotive coaxes make great in-wall speakers, or work well for an inexpensive 2nd room system. Most of them use a 1st order high-pass tweeter with a poly woofer that has a smooth natural rolloff. Many people feel that a minimal crossover network is best, and a properly designed coax can sound very good. However, most do not.

In the $120 or less range, I've found Alpine, Boston Acoustics and JL Audio to have the best sounding coaxes. I believe some of the Alpine drivers are Vifa. Boston makes their own stuff. My JL coaxes actually have a choke on the woofer in addition to the cap on the tweeter. I'm guessing that they did this so they could use a lower crossover frequency, which will help with off-axis response.

When it comes to subwoofers, I find most of it to be very overpriced compared to what people pay for raw drivers in the home audio DIY market. There are some great sounding subs out there like Image Dynamics and JL, but the most talked about drivers tend to be some of the same ones that the home audio world already knows about... Adire, Resonant Engineering, Elemental Designs, Stryke, etc.
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Old 14th April 2004, 01:57 PM   #13
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firstly lets discuss the conditions and the limitations a car audio driver has been designed for (this is omitting extreme engineered car audio gear , like the brahmas jbl gti ets)

firstly extreme temperatures and climatic conditions , huge rise and fall of operating temperatures

very limited scope of the driver being loaded well (through an

the effective consideration given to the frequency responce figures a driver should reach

and generally rise time , speed and phase responce is not an important factor when designing car drivers

now lets take a driver apart

in all of the above - driver loading (absence of carefully designed enclosures) longetivity making the driver compatable to wide range of drive sources (class d amps with a reduced daming factor element) -
- the suspension part is compromised - or optimised (depends on the face of the coin u r viewing) to take care of the above factors

in the sence that the spiders are totally different in design , mostly progressive - suspencion

this in turn has an effect on the phase response , decay doubling and overlap of signals

to take on the climatic and operating conditions and enviornment the cones are mostly reinforced pp or metal , though i will not undermine these cone materials , but when in hi - fi the tonal nature , timbre and sweetness is judged to a car audio driver one may find them to be harsh to somewhat over lively , this is due to the cone material chosen to withstand climates and have good longetivity charecteristics

all in all in a critical car audio installation quite a few active cross - overs are used this is to prevent the doubling of sound that takes place before distortion - to make the installation sound good and perform at high volumes - parametric cross overs are brought in too to give control over the sound and bring in realism after the heavy use of active cross overs as one cannot adjust the cross over points continuously

both car audio and hi - fi is difficult , i would respect a car audio sound engineer as much to some one into hi fi

all i can recommend after all this is , car subs of all standard cos are sold in 2 versions (of each model) one type is designed for free air use and the other for enclosure loading
if at all one has to use a car sub at home go in for the enclosure type driver - the info will be on the tech sheet

as for mid hi drivers all i can say is that - there is a limitation to frequency range and output to diaphram size , since in co - ax a small tweeter needs to be mounted , how heavy neo mags are used and ferro - fludics applied there will always be a limitaion due to diaphram size - this is due to physics and quite diffcult to overcome , if you prefer natural ness go in for the dual cone type driver that has been posted earlier on

this topic is very vast , suspension non linearity gives rise to distortion and huge second harmonics - in good hi fi drivers this is addressed critically along with v c inductance linearity , in car audio suspension linearity is reversed to limit the driver to perform with in a certain range with minimum fatigue ,

mostly car subs push huge amounts of air , v c inductance linearity in not often addresed leading to a source of distortion


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