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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
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the specs for the speaker I'm tring to configure the box to is:
fs = 20.48 Hz re = 4 Ohm lvc = 1.81mH bl = 12.93 sd = 807.6 cm2 vas = 120.3 Liters Qes = .39 Qts = .378 Qms = 12.28 I have done some reasearch and i have used the Martin J. King Mathcad TQWT sheet...but im not sure how to use the information I have recieved from it. The part I think im stuck on is how to tune the box with multiple folds I was thinking like 5 or 6 Folds any help would be great I have spend the last 2 weeks stressing out over this and the lack of sleep is starting to affect me thanks, Brian |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: PA
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For what its worth....
Start by looking at Martin's alingment tables at http://www.quarter-wave.com/Theory/Alignment_Tables.pdf This will give you a rough idea of the length of tube needed. With a driver with a Fs in the low 20's, you will need a long tube. You also need to decide how you want to taper the tube (if at all). I guess the general recommendations going around the forum are 3:1 or more. This will roughly put you around 133 inches for a 20Hz tuning, with the biggest end of the enclosure toward the speaker. Start puting numbers into the worksheet from there, including driver off-set and stuffing density. I like to make alterations to the box sizing first, then alter the stuffing when I am all done to flatten out the dips and peaks. As for folding, it is just a nice way of making a smaller box. All in all, the lenght of the tube is what matters. As for folding a tube, you may be able to get away with 2 or 3 folds in a tall skiny box. If you need a smaller enclosure, consider a mass-loaded design by putting a port at the open (now closed) end. This will allow you to shorten the length, while keeping the response similar. |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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Something's fishy, the BL product is only ~half what it should be (I calculate ~24.905), so either the 12.93 is wrong or one or more of the other specs are. What driver is this, and is there any more info available?
GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Near Seattle
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Quote:
Bob Brines website has some good starter info for this kind of thing. Do a search on his name in google, it's a geocities website. Scroll down his TOC and look for "Design a TL" It has some rules of thumb for different topologies. For a TQWT you generally want the driver at 50% of the length. I don't know the other effects of putting a lot of folds in it but consider this. The CSA (cross sectional area) as you go around a fold changes dramatically from a straight pipe. The more folds you put in the less you're likely to hit your target predicted behavior. -- Danny |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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>He wants a TQWT, not a Tapered TL.
==== Hmm, TQWT = tapered quarter wave tube. Isn't this a (reverse) tapered TL? If it was an expanding one it would be a horn. ==== > That means he wants the driver nearer the closed end and the port at the big end. ==== Correct, for a tapered TL. ==== >For a TQWT you generally want the driver at 50% of the length. ==== Well, this is a very general guideline for a positive taper (horn). For max smoothness with a driver best suited for a pipe, it's a function of taper/expansion ratio, with it sliding towards the top as the taper ratio increases, and down towards the mouth in a horn. ==== >I don't know the other effects of putting a lot of folds in it but consider this. The CSA (cross sectional area) as you go around a fold changes dramatically from a straight pipe. The more folds you put in the less you're likely to hit your target predicted behavior. ==== True, though it affects the Fb tuning much less than the upper harmonics, which you want to suppress anyway, so the folds allows you to use less stuffing. GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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these are the subs im looking at:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/pshow...number=295-185 here is a link to there specs: http://www.partsexpress.com/tech/295-185.html |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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OK, for whatever reason you posted some specs for the -185 and others for the -190 and Re as nominal instead of its DCR. If you used these to sim with, I bet you got some interesting results.
Since it's the -185 you really want, then using the DUMAX specs is what I'll use since they are quite a bit different, allowing a considerably smaller cab. posted: fs = 20.48 Hz re = 4 Ohm lvc = 1.81mH bl = 12.93 sd = 807.6 cm2 vas = 120.3 Liters Qes = .39 Qts = .378 Qms = 12.28 295-185: fs = 21.73 Hz re = 2.69 Ohm lvc = 1.81mH bl = 12.51 sd = 506.7 cm2 vas = 120.3 Liters Qes = .38 Qts = .369 Qms = 12.53 295-190: fs = 20.48 Hz re = 2.6 Ohm lvc = 1.81mH bl = 12.93 sd = 807.6 cm2 vas = 280.9 Liters Qes = .39 Qts = .378 Qms = 12.28 295-185 DUMAX: fs = 21.17 Hz re = 2.7216 Ohm lvc = 1.81mH bl = 13.1097 sd = 464 cm2 vas = 96.2719 Liters Qes = .3731 Qts = .3536 Qms = 6.7645 Xmax = 16.44mm I assume this is for music and since the Fs is low enough, then tuning it to ~16Hz for organ pipes seems the obvious choice, so right off the bat it's obvious that there's not much quality performance to be had with this driver in a TQWT since its Vas and Qts is too low for the requisite pipe length. A shorter straight ML-TL OTOH looks much better and its Fb and Q can be easily adjusted by shortening the vent length and vent damping: L = 74.47" So/SL = 74.71"^2 (net) Density = 0.2 lbs/ft^3 rp = 1.75" Lp = 18" Xo = 24.06" It's compact enough to stand it up in a corner or lay it down along the wall or fold it in half. GM
__________________
Loud is Beautiful if it's Clean! As always though, the usual disclaimers apply to this post's contents. |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
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HAHA thanks for pointing that out i was looking at the wrong specs when i posted the stats
thanks but what does this actually mean? L = 74.47" So/SL = 74.71"^2 (net) Density = 0.2 lbs/ft^3 rp = 1.75" Lp = 18" Xo = 24.06" 74.47 is trhe lenthg of the cabinet? whats the width and depth? whats the port opening size if i was to use a slot port? plus what would it be with out any filler? |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Chamblee, Ga.
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>thanks but what does this actually mean?
L = 74.47" So/SL = 74.71"^2 (net) Density = 0.2 lbs/ft^3 rp = 1.75" Lp = 18" Xo = 24.06" ==== You've been using MJK's program and haven't bothered to read his application notes that explains all this? ==== >74.47 is trhe lenthg of the cabinet? ==== Yes, inside dim. ==== >whats the width and depth? ==== Whatever works. Obviously, since the cross sectional area (So/SL) is little more than Sd, a rectangular shape will be required to get the driver to fit. ==== >whats the port opening size if i was to use a slot port? ==== Depends on its width. I don't recommend using a >9:1 ratio, but it's academic since the vent needs to be longer than either the cab's width or depth. ==== >plus what would it be with out any filler? ==== Hollow sounding. GM
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