Draw up the shape you need and i’ll figure out the vent size for you. The A10.3 does not go as low as the A10.2 (but gains in DDR/detail, and ringing is more in control, more than a satisfactory trade-off IMO) so tuning will be higher — and we’ll choose something better than the Hartmann box.
dave
dave
Only 1 “L” in FAL — despite being Finlayson Arm Loudspeaker Lab.
The Mar-Ken5 (actually µMar-Ken5.2 is for the Alpair 5.2 and they are only 2.5 litre). What you want is one of the Mar-Ken10.3 (the CGR is freely available), i will tune your dimensions for a 13 litre box into a variation of one of these.
Apologies for the confusing nomenclature… Chris has no idea what he started when he coined the original “Fonken” name (now called Fonken-Prime), we had no idea that the tuning/approach would turn out to be so versatile & successful, there are literally into the 100s of box variations, with metric designators in front of prime-size and smaller boxes, all sorts of postFix designators afterwards which have specific meanings (ie T = Trapezoid, TT = Tall Trapezoid), and adjectives (ie CGR = Classic Golden Ratio, CFS = Compact FloorStander). Names try to minimic/mirror/take fun of the driver model or manufacturer name (ie Fonkens have Fostex, Mar-Kens use Mark Audio Alpairs, CHR-Kens (Kra-Ken) use CHR models, Mar-Kel uses an EL70, Kal-El uses a CHP — those last leveraging the similarity to names on Krypton, Plu-Ken a nod to Frank Zappa).
Questions
dave
The Mar-Ken5 (actually µMar-Ken5.2 is for the Alpair 5.2 and they are only 2.5 litre). What you want is one of the Mar-Ken10.3 (the CGR is freely available), i will tune your dimensions for a 13 litre box into a variation of one of these.
Apologies for the confusing nomenclature… Chris has no idea what he started when he coined the original “Fonken” name (now called Fonken-Prime), we had no idea that the tuning/approach would turn out to be so versatile & successful, there are literally into the 100s of box variations, with metric designators in front of prime-size and smaller boxes, all sorts of postFix designators afterwards which have specific meanings (ie T = Trapezoid, TT = Tall Trapezoid), and adjectives (ie CGR = Classic Golden Ratio, CFS = Compact FloorStander). Names try to minimic/mirror/take fun of the driver model or manufacturer name (ie Fonkens have Fostex, Mar-Kens use Mark Audio Alpairs, CHR-Kens (Kra-Ken) use CHR models, Mar-Kel uses an EL70, Kal-El uses a CHP — those last leveraging the similarity to names on Krypton, Plu-Ken a nod to Frank Zappa).
Questions
dave
Hi Dave. thank you again. I got the name wrong I have been looking at the Mar Ken 10.3 box. I think that will work well. I wanted something that will fit in the console but after looking at the speaker it is attractive and being able to lift them for critical listening will probably be a better solution. I would like to use 3/4 baltic birch as I have it on hand. and the speakers will match the console and if I pull it off right they should look like they are part of the console. I am thinking about a stand that will match the height of the console in one direction and the listening height the other.
Dave I read on one of the threads that you sell plans for 25 I would like to purchase as you have been so patient and helpful to me. Please let me know how to do that.
That is interesting on the nomenclature of the speakers. I was wondering what the names meant.
Thanks again
Ben
Dave I read on one of the threads that you sell plans for 25 I would like to purchase as you have been so patient and helpful to me. Please let me know how to do that.
That is interesting on the nomenclature of the speakers. I was wondering what the names meant.
Thanks again
Ben
Take a micrometer to it. 18mm is often sold as ¾ and even 18mm is rarely exactly that.
email me.
Even Chris has trouble with the names, they have grown uncontrollably
dave
The BSC gang huh - I guess i can only raise them when no body is watcning turn off all electronic devices and all like that.
Great on the ply size. I have it and have to order it if I need a different size. the cutoffs from the countertop and the console will be enough to build the speakers. the drivers are on the way.
Names get a life of there own I made some display boxes with a hinge and came up with an idea to use just the top of the box the customer liked the idea and now when ever the customer orders he orders 1/2 boxes. Once the genie is out of the bottle it is hard to get back in.
Great on the ply size. I have it and have to order it if I need a different size. the cutoffs from the countertop and the console will be enough to build the speakers. the drivers are on the way.
Names get a life of there own I made some display boxes with a hinge and came up with an idea to use just the top of the box the customer liked the idea and now when ever the customer orders he orders 1/2 boxes. Once the genie is out of the bottle it is hard to get back in.
Caertainly there is a cosmetic factor, but there is also a performance gain. If you look in the plan view you can see that the shape is a polygonal approximation of a tear drop. This leads to a lower diffraction signature which means the box gains a greater ability to “disappear”. The tapered inside walls also mean a distribution of side-to-side standing waves and a reduction in their strength.
To take full advantage of the shape the outside needs to be free of obstruction (ie th erest of the console).
Please excuse my 1st attempt at drawing a tear drop — the CAD SW is not nearly as capable as Illustrator at drawing complex curves.
dave
To take full advantage of the shape the outside needs to be free of obstruction (ie th erest of the console).
Please excuse my 1st attempt at drawing a tear drop — the CAD SW is not nearly as capable as Illustrator at drawing complex curves.
dave
Thank you Dave Great plan set by the way. I deleted the previous post because I found a thread where you talk about the diffraction and that you mostly build the t style designs. We ended up moving the console to the corner and really building a stereo cabinet instead. I am about 1/2 done with it . We have a lot of trouble with dialog as we get older I have a class d sure amp I bought from a member hooked up to the super zeros. much better than the tv but I think the alpairs will be better still. Still now sure how the speaker will fit in the console maybe fit under for looks and pull out to listen. thanks again for all of your help
Ben
Ben
Many families convert all important analog records and tapes into digital files which can be stored on the home server so everyone can download to PC, iPod(FiiO), iPhone ... and used in every room, car, office, exercise, travel, etc.. A modest cost FiiO media pod includes BlueTooth and can store over 128GB of music.
Small Thors fit in most bedrooms with a BlueTooth amp + iPod.
Small Thors fit in most bedrooms with a BlueTooth amp + iPod.
thanks Linesource. You are absolutely correct. and I am just realizing it . in going through this process I had trouble with my marantz amp and decided to buy a receiver for the living room. So I bought a cheap Yamaha without blue tooth. I ended up buying an av receiver because we have trouble hearing the dialog. and the AV receivers are cheaper especially if you buy a generation back. It came yesterday. I am amazed at the ease of getting it set up. And the ease at getting to the music pop in a usb and flac hd tunes are right there. The TV satellite has 50 music stations. The FM radio works and picks up several stations. I have the BR player set up so CDs are possible and if I have room it has a phono hook up and the grossly fewer number of wires. I think have been stuck in the audiofile purest world too long. I probably should have gotten blue tooth. but I wanted the better DAC for hi def music. It does have an internet connection that I can buy an inexpensive wi fi adaptor for. I know the small thors should fit and on stands most speaker will be close to as big. I even thought very seriously about turning them in to odins. I will see how the full rangers sound and go from there it is still a possiblity. the receiver was 300 cad. brand new. I have paid that for cables and speaker wire in the past. So you are correct I should at least move into the 1990s.
Ben
Ben
Any tips on speaker holes i can make a router circle cutter does anyone use the drill press style of hole cutter with the micro adjustment. or is the router the way? When I made the thors I used a homemade router circle guide and I was not overly happy with the results. 5 came out well but one had some slippage. has anyone used the milescraft?
thanks
Ben
thanks
Ben
For anything I've machined by hand, I've only ever used either the Jasper router jig, or a shop made compass style router jig. The issue with the Jasper that I got was is it was calibrated in imperial, and for a 1/4" bit. That's fine if you're not rebating a driver for flush fit, but can be very time consuming when you are. With a 1/2" cutting diameter bit, you can make much quicker work of wide rebates.
Of course, it's nice to have access to a CNC.
Of course, it's nice to have access to a CNC.
Yes a cnc would be nice for plinths too. I looked at one from carbide 3d but still 1600 or so all in. would never be able make enough to pay it off. It sounds like homemade is the way to go. the drill press mounted hole cutter looks interesting with a micro adjust but it looks like the cutter is pretty narrow too. thanks for the 1/2" cutter tip.
If you want to experiment with a controlled directivity horn speaker to reduce wall reflections which garble the soundstage in your modest size room, the Faital LTH102 horn with a 60H x 40V polar pattern gets high marks and is often used with the 8" Faital 8PR200 midbass. You can add two 8" woofers like the SB Acoustics SB23NRX45-8 with either front baffle mounting or side-side counter-force panel mouting for reduced vibration. An 11" wide, 44" high cabinet gives ear level tweeters with modest window block-out. Popular low cost 1" compression drivers include the $30 Dayton D250 with a smooth voice from a plastic diaphragm or the new $60 Peerless DFM-2544R00-08 with a plastic coated titanium diaphragm. Example passive crossovers are posted.
Take your room floorplan and aim two 60-degree polar patterns crossing in front of your favorite seating location to determine possible speaker placement. You should notice significant reductions in wall reflections.
Take your room floorplan and aim two 60-degree polar patterns crossing in front of your favorite seating location to determine possible speaker placement. You should notice significant reductions in wall reflections.
Attachments
Progress report
I am varnishing the cabinet. I have the panels cut for the trap speakers. cutting the vent spacers now. any reason I cant use 2 pcs of cedar to make up the wider spacer - 4 3/32 spacer would save some time?. ok to mix maple and cedar for the spacers? any tips on cutting the face angles better after the speaker is assembled? after the panel is assembled or before anything is assembled? I would have to move my fence to the left side. it has never been over there before. Trying to follow this thread but there are no pics available of the process. Trapezoid mini Onken&Slim GR dMar-Ken builds. any other recomendations
Thank you
Ben
I am varnishing the cabinet. I have the panels cut for the trap speakers. cutting the vent spacers now. any reason I cant use 2 pcs of cedar to make up the wider spacer - 4 3/32 spacer would save some time?. ok to mix maple and cedar for the spacers? any tips on cutting the face angles better after the speaker is assembled? after the panel is assembled or before anything is assembled? I would have to move my fence to the left side. it has never been over there before. Trying to follow this thread but there are no pics available of the process. Trapezoid mini Onken&Slim GR dMar-Ken builds. any other recomendations
Thank you
Ben
Regarding the mirrored angle cut: pick up an old right tilt delta (assuming you have a modern left tilting table saw) and continue to work with the fence on the right side. I am somewhat ambidextrous but placing the fence to the left just feels wrong. Especially if your fence is set up at just off 90 degrees which is what carpenters (me) tend to do. On the left side you will have burning marks or binding without retuning. Or if you have a right tilting arbor tool then add a left tilter. Hard to have too many useful tools except for that space issue.
A good (larger) portable like a Bosch will do nicely mounted in the extended table on your primary tool.
A good (larger) portable like a Bosch will do nicely mounted in the extended table on your primary tool.
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