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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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I'm designing a new sub for my HT involving a Dayton Titanic MKIII 12" woofer. I'm curious, whats the best way to find the volume of a particular driver? Does the manufacturer ever provide this information? I need to know because I'm going to add this amount, as well as the volume of the port tubes and bracing so I will know the exact dimensions of the enclosure I need to build.
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#2 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Borås, Sweden, Tellus
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this is the answer I got when writning to Peerless asking for the volume of a 12"XLS:
Quote:
I have even drawn a pic of the cone: volume :http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/showt...255#post109255
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"What is done by what is called myself is, I feel, done by something greater than myself in me." James Clerk Maxwell. 1879 |
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#3 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Where the rain does fall but the trees grow tall
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Quote:
Put a plastic bag around the driver and put the driver upsidedown in the box. Pour in rice until the box is full. Measure the volume of the rice. Subtract this from the box volume to get the driver volume. (Small error due to some of the speaker being in the baffel.) |
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#4 | |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Borås, Sweden, Tellus
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Quote:
__________________
"What is done by what is called myself is, I feel, done by something greater than myself in me." James Clerk Maxwell. 1879 |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Columbia, SC
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Damn, I was hoping you guys would know some sort of quick trick =). It seems like this would be information that should be provided by the manufacturer. Thanks for the help.
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: L.A., CA
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Some do post the volume displaced by the driver, not the cone displacement but the volume occupied by the driver.
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If it sounds good... it is good! |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
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Search for a program called the driver parameter calculator DPC I think it has a routine for the calculation of the volume of a driver that is pretty accurate.
http://www.diysubwoofers.org/audiolinks.htm It's about 2/3rds the way down Mark
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Mark |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Where the rain does fall but the trees grow tall
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Well, it looks like the fastest way to get a number that is close to the actual volume is to use the suggestion in one of the posts above to calculate the volume by calculating it is a combination of cylinders.
The volume of the cylinder = pi * r * r* h where pi = 3.14159 r = radius (not diameter!) of the circle that forms the base h = hieght of the cylinder Calculate the magnet portion which looks to be pretty much a cylinder. Calculate the basket portion that will actually be in the subwoofer box when it is mounted. Calculate it as a cylinder and then take off some percent (maybe 35%?) since it really is a more of a cone with a lopped of top shape. Add the two together and you have a pretty good estimate. |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
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In this thread, I did a rough estimate of the occupied volume for a Peerless 12" XLS. It came to 2.5 liters.
XLS-Subwoofer question: Two passive radiators instead of one So call it three liters and you can't be much off. Unless you get to 10% or so of the entire box volume, there is virtually negligible effect on the response. That rough estimate simply cannot be off by much. In fact, a lot of people get good results just ignoring the volume of the speaker altogether.
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"A friend will help you move. A really good friend will help you move a body." -Anonymous |
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#10 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Brighton UK
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The answer you got from Peerless is entirely
sensible. Unless you have a 3" thick baffle. |
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