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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150
Coaxial Speaker Build Thread with FaitalPro 6HX150
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Old 4th January 2018, 07:05 AM   #21
Juhazi is offline Juhazi  Finland
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That overlaying frame might have too little tolerance for shrinking of wood... I would leave at least 2mm extra radius.


Generally speaking very very smart and precise craftsmanship!
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Old 4th January 2018, 07:10 AM   #22
Cresnet is offline Cresnet  Jordan
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Very nice, I like it
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Old 4th January 2018, 02:15 PM   #23
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Quote:
That overlaying frame might have too little tolerance for shrinking of wood... I would leave at least 2mm extra radius.


Generally speaking very very smart and precise craftsmanship!

Thanks for the though! I’ve used this approach with Poplar, plywood and Mahogany several times over the past 2 years with no issue, none of these are a press fits in the slightest, they are precise, I find 2mm unnecessary clearance, I’d say .5mm is more than enough and that’s where I’m at.

Thanks!
Javad
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Old 4th January 2018, 02:57 PM   #24
Juhazi is offline Juhazi  Finland
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Obviously you don't have freezing temperatures for months every year in CA
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Old 4th January 2018, 03:43 PM   #25
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Juhazi
Obviously you don't have freezing temperatures for months every year in CA

No, not in our homes either :-)

I will wholeheartedly agree however, tthat California’s humidity and temperatures make wood expansion issues much better than say the Midwest of the United States
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Old 4th January 2018, 05:03 PM   #26
Juhazi is offline Juhazi  Finland
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My wife's sister lives in Pacifica, CA, they don't have shrinkage problems, but some issues with mold How to prevent mold: 9 tips | MNN - Mother Nature Network

Here in Scandinavia relative humidity indoors is 20-30% for 6 months, because of continuous heating and isolation. But many houses suffer from mold because of too little ventilation.

Here is a sad story from Portugal - not a cold place actually. Translam sandwich structure is most vulnerable My first project is a 4 way speaker... - Page 14
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Old 4th January 2018, 07:27 PM   #27
dave123 is offline dave123
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Javad you have some serious woodworking skills. I would never find a way to recess the baffle for an incongruous driver with just a handheld router! I would throw it on the CNC router and get it done but your job on this joint was impressive and inspirational. wisely done
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Old 6th January 2018, 12:07 AM   #28
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dave123
Javad you have some serious woodworking skills. I would never find a way to recess the baffle for an incongruous driver with just a handheld router! I would throw it on the CNC router and get it done but your job on this joint was impressive and inspirational. wisely done


Thanks for the kind words Dave!
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Old 6th January 2018, 12:10 AM   #29
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Ok time for some ports! Here is where they stood before

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First step pinch some pilot holes through the center of the back

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Now drill with 1.5” bit

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The ports get installed from behind and clamped in place, ready for a 1/2” spiral cut flush bit. They’re a tight fit but if they fell out it would be disasters

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Ready for a roundover

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I used 3/4” as port velocity wont be an issue on these and it gives some room to the relatively tight fit

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Time for some post tuning with WT2, 8” driver installed and open back sealed against the moving blanket

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Ports with inner supports and flares installed, driver connected

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First sweep with approx 9” long ports, Fm of 32hz

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This is the model I’m targeting, about 38hz

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1.5” removed

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Another sweep, now Fm 35hz

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1” more off, and right at 37Hz, I’m good with that

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Next clamping on and locating the back!

Javad
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Old 7th January 2018, 08:46 PM   #30
JShadzi is offline JShadzi  United States
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Some detail locating and doweling panels Holes drilled and located

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Dowel center transfer inserts

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Dowels finalized top and bottom

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Inner port supports finalized and glued in

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Glue applied to attach back, Titebond Premium around outside, Loctite construction adhesive around the braces as these don’t all fit perfectly flush to the back panel

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I built this special clamping fixture as there are no square corners to clamp to

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The foam pad protects the front from any damage and spreads out the load when compressed

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Back clamped on, this made me nervous as the kerfs aren’t super tough and I was a little concerned about applying too much pressure to the enclosure, but the braces and inner ribs have taken any load off the kerfs, held up great

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Thanks!
Javad
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