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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Toronto, Canada
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I'm building a SEAS Odin Mk3 speaker, and have a kit from Solen. They have included a bunch of T-nuts, which seem like good idea, but:
How do I install these? (They are being used to mount the drivers) Should they be hammered in? Are the teeth supposed to be all the way into the wood? Also, they didnt include any grill fasteners. What sort of grill is good for this speaker (it's an MTM)? Is it just a matter of taste, or is there a certain sort/way to do it that will sound/work better? Thanks! |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
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To install the T-nuts on the 'box' side: take a drill just a tad bit smaller (or the same size) as the nut's shaft, drill the MDF, place the nut, use a large metallic washer on the other side, insert screw, tighten it until the T-nut goes into place. Yes, the teeth need to be inserted in the wood. At least that's how I do it...
Take care not to overtighten, remove screw & washer and repeat for the other holes. You might also want to use some kind of reinforcing wood glue if you don't find it too messy (like in drill hole, use dilluted glue to 'paint' into the hole, wait 1 day for the glue to be absorbed, drill again to cure glue bavures then screw/washer/nut). |
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Toronto, Canada
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Which is the 'box' side?
I am using a one inch thick wood baffle (not MDF like the rest of the box - i decided on real wood as the grain on the rounded corners would look better). A rim about 1cm wide is routed about 5 mm deep around the hole, which is where the driver sits. Should i install the nut on the inside of the box/baffle, or the outside? Inside, right..? |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Moderator Emeritus
Join Date: May 2003
Location: UK
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The tee-nuts are put on the inside of the enclosure, so when you bolt the drivers in, the nuts get pulled tighter into the wood on the other side of the baffle. I would definitely recommend glueing the nuts in too.
__________________
"The human mind is so constituted that it colours with its own previous conceptions any new notion that presents itself for acceptance." - J. Wilhelm. (But I still think mine sounds better than yours.) |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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I'm thinking that the real wood front baffle is going to make alot of noise itself. Why dont you just make a double layered front baffle? Mount the driver into the mdf, then cut a hole the size of the outer rim of the driver and place it on the front baffle. You will have to use the router around the circumfrence of the hole to keep the second baffle from causing reflections and other problems though. here is an example im made The front baffle on that thing is 3.5'' thick including the 3/4'' real wood outer layer as i described above. With something that thick you will probibly need to use a big roundover bit on the inside of the baffle (facing the inside of the box) too.
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| Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
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