I picked these up for a steal out of the blue, they are in a JBL 4868a cab, at least I think that’s the number. I’m not sure whether to leave them in there as a mid bass bin, or try them in a ppsl cab, or put them in a 2 way with a Denovo 360 cd and a 12/15” wave guide. I know I’d have to pad the cd down to match the woofer but they would be a huge upgrade from the little 6.5” 2 ways I’m using for the home theater. A guy did exactly that over on AVS with seemingly very good results.
SEOS-12 / DNA-360 / JBL 2226(J) build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Any suggestions?
SEOS-12 / DNA-360 / JBL 2226(J) build - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
Any suggestions?
I’m very much at the beginning of the learning curve in regards to crossovers, I’ve done a lot of reading, but very little hands on. My poor head can only process so much information before it goes into overload lol. I’m hoping for a little help, maybe a lot of help! I have simmed and successfully built several ported subs so designing and building the cabinet won’t be an issue. But where to start on the crossover? Can I access files on the internet with fr sweeps on these drivers and start running them in something like Xsim to get started? Or do I need to start collecting measurement gear, build a cab and make all my own? I’m on a bit of a budget so can’t just go buy everything needed and start playing, unless it can be had for very little money, which I doubt. Not to mention, I don’t even know everything I would need to get started! A mic, a stand for the mic, sound card? Software?will any old laptop be sufficient or do I need something with serious processing power?Would it be better to plan for an active setup with something like an iNUKE w dsp, or a mini- dsp, or a traditional x-over?
Before I get too carried away, is there any reason not to get the Dna360 drivers and 15” Seos wave guides? From what I’ve read over the last several days I think it should be possible to get a great result with this combo?
I’ll stop here although I could probably ask pages of questions. Thanks in advance for any help!
Before I get too carried away, is there any reason not to get the Dna360 drivers and 15” Seos wave guides? From what I’ve read over the last several days I think it should be possible to get a great result with this combo?
I’ll stop here although I could probably ask pages of questions. Thanks in advance for any help!
An "old" computer will do unless you want to do precise rta.
Measurements are always a good idea.
I can recommend the minidsp UMIK-1 mic. It is cheap, good, calibrated and has a built-in usb interface, so no need to use a good(calibrated) soundcard/interface.
In conjunction with the free room eq wizard software you can do quite a lot.
Regarding those JBL drivers, I would probably build some frontloaded horn subs.
Measurements are always a good idea.
I can recommend the minidsp UMIK-1 mic. It is cheap, good, calibrated and has a built-in usb interface, so no need to use a good(calibrated) soundcard/interface.
In conjunction with the free room eq wizard software you can do quite a lot.
Regarding those JBL drivers, I would probably build some frontloaded horn subs.
Might want to consider looking at the PI4 speakers. The better speakers option uses these drivers and the design and crossover network are pretty good.
Can get the plans for free by requesting them and lots of supporting doc's as well.
Pi Speakers - unmatched quality and state-of-the-art performance
Can get the plans for free by requesting them and lots of supporting doc's as well.
Pi Speakers - unmatched quality and state-of-the-art performance
lol
Seems like you are already covered.
When building you want to measure them flat (outside when quiet or in a dead room when you can / without room effects/reflections, etc).
Later on when satisfied tailor them to your room (in your room) using eq, dsp, ... to minimize room effects.
Ideally flat first because in the worst case scenario later on room effects might add to already existing peaks of the speaker fr. Or vice versa room cancellations will make dips in speaker fr worse.
When flat the speaker is also "independent" from the room in case you will move to another house, different placement, etc .
Plus it will sound better even without eq, ...
JBL 2226H are great sounding. They are refined in many steps during the years.
they are used in many world class studio monitors.
I love them... The thing is that behind those elements there is many inventions made, details in the construction that makes the well balanced and good sounding. All speakers is compromices of course.. those are a good compromize! Gratulations!
they are used in many world class studio monitors.
I love them... The thing is that behind those elements there is many inventions made, details in the construction that makes the well balanced and good sounding. All speakers is compromices of course.. those are a good compromize! Gratulations!
Nice.
If you don`t already know you can download the calibration file(s) here:
Acoustic Measurement Tools : UMIK-1
If you don`t already know you can download the calibration file(s) here:
Acoustic Measurement Tools : UMIK-1
The lower crossover is an advantage but it's helpful even if you cross higher. Given that it's an asymmetrical waveguide, the CTC spacing suffers rather little for a 15" WG vs 12", and larger waveguides are smoother in general and better behaved below any given crossover frequency vs. their smaller brethren. These are generalities but the smaller wg doesn't enable a smaller baffle, and only allows a maximum spacing improvement of 0.7" on what is already >10" center-to-center vertical spacing.
In other words, it's a few bucks and a negligibly larger center spacing, for the ability to XO lower if desired, or better behavior below cutoff if not.
In other words, it's a few bucks and a negligibly larger center spacing, for the ability to XO lower if desired, or better behavior below cutoff if not.
Found a couple 2225h drivers, bad news is I think they need a recone. The dcr should be around 6.3ish I believe, which is what I measure on one, but it’s scratchy when pushing the cone in n out. The other measures 4.1 and makes no bad noises. They both play music when hooked up. What would the low dcr indicate?
The good news is if I recone I can convert them to 2234/2235 and use each paired w a 2226 for low end and keep the 2226 in the 80-1000 range. Anything wrong with trying to implement this?
The good news is if I recone I can convert them to 2234/2235 and use each paired w a 2226 for low end and keep the 2226 in the 80-1000 range. Anything wrong with trying to implement this?
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