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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

New crossover for my current speakers
New crossover for my current speakers
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Old 20th July 2018, 11:05 AM   #101
EarlK is offline EarlK  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
Okay So, is there anything else that I would need? I have solder, soldering iron, and cables. I will make a thin wooden board to mount the components on. Is glue best for mounting the components? If I remember correctly my current crossover has the components glued to a plywood board. It wont be pretty getting them off the board.
I don't use glue on passive components.

I keep all networks external and available for modification.

Tie-wraps work well enough for a-fixing coils + caps onto boards.

One can always encase the complete network in wax ( if one is worried about musical micro-dynamics getting swamped out by micro-phonic pickup within the cabinet ).
- I recommend simply keeping the network outside the pressure box ( ie;cabinet ).
- That means installing a set of biamping posts ( on the enclosure & on the crossover ).

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Old 20th July 2018, 11:26 AM   #102
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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New crossover for my current speakers
Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlK View Post
I don't use glue on passive components.

I keep all networks external and available for modification.

Tie-wraps work well enough for a-fixing coils + caps onto boards.

One can always encase the complete network in wax ( if one is worried about musical micro-dynamics getting swamped out by micro-phonic pickup within the cabinet ).
- I recommend simply keeping the network outside the pressure box ( ie;cabinet ).
- That means installing a set of biamping posts ( on the enclosure & on the crossover ).

Well, if I was building the speakers from the very beginning I could have this but now that everything is done already it feels like it would be too complicated and costly. I have pretty neat binding posts already (Mundorf Classic 6). Click the image to open in full size.

The size of the board would have to be limited to the size of the speaker cutouts in the baffle.

However, one option could be fabricating a new binding post plate and buy another set of speaker terminals, such as the "Binding Post PK 28I" from Lautsprechershop. I don't have access to a metal workshop but I do have access to 3D-printers so I could make a new plate in plastic.
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Old 20th July 2018, 02:01 PM   #103
EarlK is offline EarlK  Canada
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Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
<<<SNIP>>>

The size of the board would have to be limited to the size of the speaker cutouts in the baffle.

However, <<<SNIP>>> so I could make a new plate in plastic.
Why not check with Ingvar to see if he offers a similar sized metal plate, having 2 sets of holes ( ready for Bi-amping terminals ).

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Old 20th July 2018, 02:12 PM   #104
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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New crossover for my current speakers
I guess I could, but Ingvar isn't replying to any messages.
I did some googling and found that the local hardware store has aluminium sheets of 1.5mm thickness at sizes 25x50cm or 12x100cm for 159SEK (~24CAD). The plates on my speakers are 10x10cm so it would be enough for that and it would give me some material for the filter boxes as well. The current Mundorf connectors could be used for the filter box input and then I buy two new pairs from Lautsprechershop as output terminals.

I have no idea what size the filter components are and how big the crossover would be. But my idea would be building a low square-shaped box standing next to the speakers with all connections on the back. Building it as slim as possible and then using birch veneer (also from the hardware store) to make it match with the speakers.
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Old 20th July 2018, 04:20 PM   #105
EarlK is offline EarlK  Canada
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Originally Posted by Rullknufs View Post
I guess I could, but Ingvar isn't replying to any messages.
<<<<SNIP>>> Building it as slim as possible and then using birch veneer (also from the hardware store) to make it match with the speakers.
Hopefully you haven't ticked him off somehow.

I had re-read his original thread ( started by him announcing these speakers ) and decided that he & I would get along just fine.

I like very much something within his opening quote about speakers <95db, being on the deficient side ( I happen to feel the same way & chuckled when I read it ).
Strong women & cowboy boots ( indeed ).

IMHO, external crossovers look best in all wood boxes topped with plexi tops ( & btw , did you know that getting inductors too close to ferric metals will change the value of the coil ? )

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Old Yesterday, 08:22 AM   #106
Rullknufs is offline Rullknufs  Sweden
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New crossover for my current speakers
Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlK View Post
Hopefully you haven't ticked him off somehow.

I had re-read his original thread ( started by him announcing these speakers ) and decided that he & I would get along just fine.

I like very much something within his opening quote about speakers <95db, being on the deficient side ( I happen to feel the same way & chuckled when I read it ).
Strong women & cowboy boots ( indeed ).

IMHO, external crossovers look best in all wood boxes topped with plexi tops ( & btw , did you know that getting inductors too close to ferric metals will change the value of the coil ? )

Hopefully not. However I think he has kind of retreated from the audio world a little, or at least from the Internet. From what I have seen he hasn't been as active the last couple of years as he used to be. I remember some people (here on diyaudio) were not so nice to him so maybe that put out his flame a little.

I agree with his philosophy though, and if I didn't live in an apartment I would have a speaker more similar to the stuff he usually builds (typically no smaller than 12" drivers). I have been "dreaming" of a setup with a Beyma AMT tweeter, 10-12" mid and 18" sub but that will have to be a project for when I get older and have no neighbours to disturb.

As for boots... Well cowboy boots aren't really my cup of tea but I do own two pairs of Red Wing Iron Rangers (Google them, they're really neat!) and I'm already planning on getting at least one more pair of Red Wing boots sometime soon. In fact, in the last twelve months I have spent more money on boots than on audio products

I didn't know that ferric metals close to inductors affect the properties of the coil but now that you mention it... I guess it interrupts the magnetic field surrounding the coil and therefore makes the inductor behave differently? Plexiglass top might be cool, and it's easy to get at the hardware store and if the box is placed next to the speaker it will be discrete anyways but can be displayed if I want to. Good idea, Earl!
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