I am planning to build a MTM or TMM using the new TB W5-2143 as the mid. I got a couple and placed them into small boxes and currently am using them full-range. They are nice little drivers.
Here is my issue - when there is bass heavy material I get what I would describe as 'bass bloat'. Is that cone breakup because it is trying to play low bass notes; is that additional cone movement because of the lightness of the cone or ???
The 2nd part is how to address it. I was thinking I might need a large capacitor value to do a 1st order crossover at like 150hz? I am in the initial design stages as you can see. I was planning to pair them with an AMT - RT5002.
Here is my issue - when there is bass heavy material I get what I would describe as 'bass bloat'. Is that cone breakup because it is trying to play low bass notes; is that additional cone movement because of the lightness of the cone or ???
The 2nd part is how to address it. I was thinking I might need a large capacitor value to do a 1st order crossover at like 150hz? I am in the initial design stages as you can see. I was planning to pair them with an AMT - RT5002.
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Pretty small box for that driver, particularly if running full range and sealed - they'd quite likely do much better in a larger volume, or even better an MLTL? Crossing them over anywhere between 150 - 200 in your proposed design would most likely alleviate that a bit, but as I think you'll likely discover the parts values for speaker level passive at that frequency range could get a bit spendy.
A buddy of mine has been quite happy with the Dayton branded AMT 3- 4 and Pro4 - the latter with W8-1772 in a small OB, with bass support by JBL 12" in TL
A buddy of mine has been quite happy with the Dayton branded AMT 3- 4 and Pro4 - the latter with W8-1772 in a small OB, with bass support by JBL 12" in TL
It's because they're in tiny little boxes, I'd be surprised if you get any bass at all
Thanks for the responses. I guess not easy to attenuate either. Another silly question - can you use something like this to attenuate the low end - create high pass at like 150hz (these are cheap.....)?
From Ebay - Capacitor 100 uf 100mfd 200V Electrolytic 105c degree Nichicon
I know that I could test it out but could save me some time and money.
Chrisb: I picked up a pair of the AMT PRO-4 when they were on sale and I haven't even hooked em up yet. I seem to favor AMTs.
From Ebay - Capacitor 100 uf 100mfd 200V Electrolytic 105c degree Nichicon
I know that I could test it out but could save me some time and money.
Chrisb: I picked up a pair of the AMT PRO-4 when they were on sale and I haven't even hooked em up yet. I seem to favor AMTs.
Go active then, much easier to crossover properly that lowThe only other piece of advice I'd offer would be to avoid EL caps for high passing in your XO - at least once you've dialed in the frequency and slope.
Considering the cost of other drivers in your eventual multi-way, the cost savings over decent films would be very short-sighted in the long run. Mind you, I'm not talking snake oil audiphool grade parts - I've been happy with the Solens, and even Bennics.
Of course, as it's likley be suggested, if you're like a lot of long time DIYer / hobbyists, you might very well have a spare amp or two kicking around, and if you don't mind the fuss and extra wires, another very valid approach would be multi-amping with passive line level XOs. I've done that several times, and have one running in my upstairs system even now.
Considering the cost of other drivers in your eventual multi-way, the cost savings over decent films would be very short-sighted in the long run. Mind you, I'm not talking snake oil audiphool grade parts - I've been happy with the Solens, and even Bennics.
Of course, as it's likley be suggested, if you're like a lot of long time DIYer / hobbyists, you might very well have a spare amp or two kicking around, and if you don't mind the fuss and extra wires, another very valid approach would be multi-amping with passive line level XOs. I've done that several times, and have one running in my upstairs system even now.
The 5" TB W5-2143 is designed for a small sealed box with a high FS (0.19cf@115Hz). If you want bass from this driver, you will need to go vented. The driver has a minimal x-Max so I am sure you will not get much bass without "bloat" regardless. Planet 10 is correct, passive is difficult with the impedance peak at resonance, The capacitor will not reduce the output resonance. Best if you use an active crossover.
I have speakers, 30-40 yrs old, with electrolytic caps in the crossovers that work, and measure, fine. I have 3 systems, all are sub and satellite. All have passive crossovers with 6db high pass. I have several minimums 7s that I have modded with poly caps and I'm hard pressed to hear any improvement. Unless your sister is a golden eared audiophile I doubt she will notice a difference. Bose crosses their satellites around 250Hz and they sell millions, try xover an octave higher than your goal, to counter impedance and add caps til it sounds right. Electronic crossovers are better but you will still have a better system than 90% people with bose or home theater in a box. My 2 cents.
I am using this 5 inch driver in the recommended sealed 0.2 foot box. 3/4 baltic birch, braced with 1/2 inch mdf and well stuffed with polyfill.
Plenty of good sound, but it absolutely rolls off by 125Hz by ear. I believe the specs that suggest its down by 115Hz for sure.
I use an active Xover and have happily cut off the bass anywhere from 200Hz to 350Hz.
Very good in this configuration with a subwoofer.
I miss the sparkle of a dedicated tweeter, but don't yet have the urge to further complicate my setup going 3 way active.
Plenty of good sound, but it absolutely rolls off by 125Hz by ear. I believe the specs that suggest its down by 115Hz for sure.
I use an active Xover and have happily cut off the bass anywhere from 200Hz to 350Hz.
Very good in this configuration with a subwoofer.
I miss the sparkle of a dedicated tweeter, but don't yet have the urge to further complicate my setup going 3 way active.
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