Hi
I am going the OB route but the only experience i have with full range drivers are with the fostex 126en. The idea is to put 2xEminence beta15A per side with the full range of choice.
Between the price range what drivers should i have to consider? What would you buy?
They will be connected to sony vfet diy and the woofers to another class A amp.
Im in europe so my eyes have to be blind for those awsome tang band 1808 even if i stretch to 400e. The pair in europe costs 500e.
I am going the OB route but the only experience i have with full range drivers are with the fostex 126en. The idea is to put 2xEminence beta15A per side with the full range of choice.
Between the price range what drivers should i have to consider? What would you buy?
They will be connected to sony vfet diy and the woofers to another class A amp.
Im in europe so my eyes have to be blind for those awsome tang band 1808 even if i stretch to 400e. The pair in europe costs 500e.
Awsome looks! Electric guitar inspiration? I am wondering if a cello like baffle would work.
I am searching for feedback about the fullrange drivers in this price range. For now, i know the Betsy driver, markaudio 10p and 12p, fostex 206en and maybe 166en, visatob b200 and now this sonido driver you metioned. I think audio nirvana is more expensive. But dont know if all fullrange drivers would do the job. Read somewhere that high qts is desirable.
Need advice
I am searching for feedback about the fullrange drivers in this price range. For now, i know the Betsy driver, markaudio 10p and 12p, fostex 206en and maybe 166en, visatob b200 and now this sonido driver you metioned. I think audio nirvana is more expensive. But dont know if all fullrange drivers would do the job. Read somewhere that high qts is desirable.
Need advice
I unserstand now. That looks very nice. For me it will be a first run on any type of crossovers and biamp. However my fostex must stay in the mk3 enclosure. WAF demandings! 
thats why i am searching another full range and mainly because i find the upper registry of the fostex a little fatiguing.
thats why i am searching another full range and mainly because i find the upper registry of the fostex a little fatiguing.The jordans price are like the tangband. 432£ is almost 500€ without shiping. Its ~65% above my price range. I would go 10-15% above my price range
Thank you
You're welcome. BTW just found this 1 Pair Eikona 2 Loudspeakers Full range drive units Ted Jordan Latest JX92S | eBay and payable over 24 months
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With helper bass and a HP on the FR you should consider a smaller FR than you have mentioned. Consider MJK’s passive OB as an example. He used FE103, but builds with FF85k had the edge.
The Alpair 10.x is a choice but only if you need real loud. I would consider Alpair 7.3/6.2x/5.2 or Fostex FF85wk/105wk.
dave
The Alpair 10.x is a choice but only if you need real loud. I would consider Alpair 7.3/6.2x/5.2 or Fostex FF85wk/105wk.
dave
The Seas 8" fullrange is a very good driver, and should work well with your woofers.
SEAS The Art Of Sound Perfection
On open baffle, in room, it tends to be flatter than the published measurements, due to the rear radiation. If needed, a small inductor and resistor can be used to tune the top end response - similar to many fullrange drivers.
SEAS The Art Of Sound Perfection
On open baffle, in room, it tends to be flatter than the published measurements, due to the rear radiation. If needed, a small inductor and resistor can be used to tune the top end response - similar to many fullrange drivers.
Well, after some reading, im inclined to the markaudio 10. I see two drivers, the 10P and 10.3. I can see the diferences but cant interpretate whats better for what i want. They seem equal but 10P is 89.5spl and 10.3 is 87. Also the 10p seems more flat than 10.3 at uper frequencies. What is the logical choice here for OB. If there is one!
What made me chose this driver is that i have relatively big room and sometimes i like to listen loud. The other reason is that i have built a frugal mk3 with fostex and i want to try the markaudio in the XL enclosure. This way i can try and listen to the differences.
Thank you all.
What made me chose this driver is that i have relatively big room and sometimes i like to listen loud. The other reason is that i have built a frugal mk3 with fostex and i want to try the markaudio in the XL enclosure. This way i can try and listen to the differences.
Thank you all.
The A10p and A10p are 6 of one, half-a-dozen of the other. They are both very good but have a different set of compromises. The metal cone probably has the more accurate top end, the paper more of a vintage top. My measured SPL is about a ½ dB higher than what you have noted. The A10p is pretty good with the 100 hrs specified breakin, the A10.3 needs a lot more to reach its optimum — maybe 500-1000 hrs. The A10p has a larger optimum miniOnken than the A10.3. Scott’s simple reflex is the same but fot the vents. They both excel in FHXL. A10p seems to be more popular based on my sales (mostly NA), A10.3 seems to have the edge in the UK. Personally i prefer the paper cone, but would happily live with either.
dave
dave
Alpair a 10.3 on its way to my house. In the end, 230€. In price range.
Dave,
How to do proper break-in? I have an old yamaha receiver and CD player. Was thinking some Mozart piano concertos 24h repeat till the 500h. Then put it in the open baffle with all kinds of music at medium volume levels till the 800h. What do you think?
Thank you all for the time spent with this topic.
BR
Carlos
Dave,
How to do proper break-in? I have an old yamaha receiver and CD player. Was thinking some Mozart piano concertos 24h repeat till the 500h. Then put it in the open baffle with all kinds of music at medium volume levels till the 800h. What do you think?
Thank you all for the time spent with this topic.
BR
Carlos
As for living with either of the 10s, I recently swapped out a larger MTM and am currently running a mix of both in the front row 3 of my small 7.1 system - paper in the center, and metals at L&R. FWIW, metals for surround effects channels as well - Pluvia7 for front height, and A6s for rear - and don't let anyone tell you that those extra channels don't add to the sense of envelopment with the appropriate surround mix.
I watch movies far more than just listen to music these days, and as much as I didn't care for the story line and gratuitous CGI effects of Dr Strange, the sound engineering was very engaging - the same can be said for the latest version of Star Trek Discovery - who knew the Klingons could be more than just one dimensional villains.
I watch movies far more than just listen to music these days, and as much as I didn't care for the story line and gratuitous CGI effects of Dr Strange, the sound engineering was very engaging - the same can be said for the latest version of Star Trek Discovery - who knew the Klingons could be more than just one dimensional villains.
Chris donated an old Denon HT receiver. I put the drivers face up on a breakin fixture (an old entertainment stand) and play low level of FM thru thr drivers for a minimum of 200 hrs. Then i measure and treat and sort them. That gets them over the worst of the break-in for my clients. I caution them to start out slow but even after i am done they need some real world use to fully break-in.
Mark’s official procedure is a little trickier. Play then 4-5 hrs and give them a break, repeat, slowly ramping up the volume. Do this for 100 hrs.
dave
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