Best hole cutting method?

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What is the best method for cutting the holes for speakers? I have seen the router templates that Parts Express sells. Just not sure how they will work.

I will be flush mounting them as well. So I assume once the hole is cut, I will use a rabbit bit on my router to allow the flush mount.

I looked at using a jigsaw, but it's impossible to get a clean cut.

What's the preferred method?
 
DIY circle cutting jig:
 

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diyAudio Editor
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SB,

IMHO the router should always be the first choice for circles.
I use the plastic Sears jig and it's fine.

For recessed driver mounting, I first cut the larger recessed part, to full depth on both speakers, It usually takes a couple of passes to get the width that you need, I do equivalent cuts on both speakers before changing adjustments.- a pain , but keeps the sizes consisitant. T I reduce the diameter more to the hole size I want and run a circle, increase the depth ,then run another circle until I'm through About 1/4" is as deep as I go on a cut.
I use a bit that makes a flat bottomed groove. Get Carbide bits
 
I tried a jig saw to cut a hole a few times & the best I could ever do was barely fair. Mostly they looked like my dog gnawed the holes for me. Router is the only way to go IMO.

I spent the $30.00 on this jig, and it is well worth it. You do have to drill holes in it to match up with the holes on your router.

http://woodworker.com/cgi-bin/FULLPRES.exe?PARTNUM=897-070&LARGEVIEW=ON

You can make the same jig out of a $6.00 piece of acrylic from Home Depot, but cutting the recessed slot on the bottom just wasn't worth the effort for me. The nice thing about a jig with a slot though is that you can set it to the precise hole size you need.
 
Also the size matters. If I can I always use hole saws. But those only usually go up to 4"-4.5". But these are the most convenient and precise for me.

For stuff like woofers, I usually use a compass and draw the circle, and then use a hand scroll saw. Always works for me.

However I don't have a house yet, so I'm limited to hand tools. The ways described above using the routers are much better. Except for the small holes, I still think hole saws are the best method (for standard round holes that is).
 
I think the router with a circle cutting jig is by far the best way to go. Doesn't matter if it is homemade with a piece of masonite and a pin or a Jasper Jig which for the person who was cautious about it's accuracy is dead on accurate.
Unfortunatley not every has a router and the thought of spending any more money on tools to make a set of speakers (especially a 150 router plus 20 1/4 straight bit plus the 30 jig) causes me strain these days.

Here is an option that you can do with a jig saw. Take any strong 1/4 inch material (masonite, luan, etc) that is bigger by about 4 inches over the radius of you circle to be cut and hotmelt glue it to the bottom of your jigsaw foot. Now take your 1/4 inch drill bit and drill a hole the radius of your speaker cutout away from the outside edge of the blade. Grab a 1/4 dowel or pin and drill a hole at speaker center and you are ready to make a pretty clean cut. You will need to drill a pilot hole for the jig saw blade as well and be very careful as you come around to where you started but I think you will be very satisfied with the hole.
 
Jasper circle jig and a plunge router.
http://www.partsexpress.com/webpage.cfm?&DID=7&WebPage_ID=3

Another option is to use a hole saw and a router with a rabbet bit. That's fine if your hole and rabbet will always be the same size. I've built 8 different systems so far, all with different sizes of drivers and the Jasper circle jig and plunge router has worked perfectly every time.

I should add, if you get the measurement wrong the first time with the circle jig you're kinda hosed. If that happens you have to make a plug for your hole and start again. (not that I've ever done that)

not.

:cannotbe:
 
Rebate the rim first

When you cut a hole for your drivers you would be wise to rebate ( make the step ) the perimeter first then make your final clearance hole. As for jigs the gentlemen above are right on the money. Anything that is set up with enough care will be accurate. I used to use a 1/4" piece of plywood that I would hot glue the base of the router to and a nail for the pivot point. Worked like a charm.

Mark
 
koolscooby said:
i've not built my own cabinets yet, but i'm sure i will sooner or later

when i do, my oen buddy has a CNC table, takes like 4x6 sheet of wood up to like 1 inch thick, crazy thing, does an *awesome* job at cutting any designs, even letters! hehe :) ... best part, he'd do it for free :-D

The idea is to do it yourself buddy!
:)

If I have a friend that let me use his factory to do the automated soldering and assemble of all my parts for me where is the fun of DIY. I am saying this is because I am jealous of you :D

Just kidding my friend, go build something and let us know how it turn out.
Regards,
Chris;)
 
well ;), as soon as my Aleph-X works, then i'll need cabinets for some "good" speakers i dont have yet, i have some to test on but they are these 40 yhear old "Oak Electronics" or something ... but i'll be sure to post pics, i'm a big fan of that :-D (Not just to brag, but to give others the motivation you're all giving me w/ yours) :)

[edit: the only thing he'd do the 1st time is show me how to program it... then it'd be my gig :-D so it is DIY :)]
 
squidbait said:
Great info guys. Thanks!

I do have a router, but need to make my jig.

I think I may have to invest in a plunge router. Maybe they make an attachment for mine???

Thanks!

I wouldn't trust one of those cheap plunger add-on's. But you should check if the manufacturer offers a replacement base for your router.

While a plunge router is the way to go for ease and speed, you can make do without. What I do for a driver recesses is drill a shallow pilot hole for the router bit with a Forstner bit, then just put the router in place and complete the circle. For the through hole, I just drill a starter hole through the baffle, then put the router in place and spin it slowly around. Remember to go slow when cutting thick material.
 
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One advantage of the Sears jig is that it is a bit flexible. This would seem to be bad, but it allows you to lift the router, holding it vertical, and not nick the outer side of the circle.

So if you make your own. flexible isn't necessarily bad IF you aren't using a plunge router AND if you are careful
 
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