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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Tweeter X-over problem
Tweeter X-over problem
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Old 1st July 2017, 03:00 PM   #1
kanaddict is offline kanaddict  Canada
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Default Tweeter X-over problem

Hi,

I have some big 3-way (Dennis Murphy MBOW1 3-way) that I built more the 10 years ago. It was my 5th project. I love these speakers so much that my quest for speakers stopped with them. Two days ago, I realised that the right tweeter was not working, dead silent! I told myself that the OW1 was dead, but after a few test, I now know that the problem come from the x-over.

Tweeter x-over mbow1 3-way.jpg

I would like to know if there is an easy way to find the problem source? I don’t have a capacitance meter and I suspect that the first capacitor in series is the only part that could lead to a silent x-over… right? I only have a regular multimeter (AC, DC, ohm) and could order one, but if I would like to know if I can do other test before that ?

Thanks a lot for your help !
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Old 1st July 2017, 03:10 PM   #2
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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Hi, I've made this experiment with good results for people like yourself. Maybe solder joints have gone bad. Try another cap of similar value.
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Old 1st July 2017, 03:12 PM   #3
JonSnell Electronic is offline JonSnell Electronic  United Kingdom
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If you have it mounted within the speaker enclosure, I would look for bad connections or broken lead on a component.
There are only two components it could be, the series components.
Place a capacitor across the series cap, if it doesn't recover it is the resistor and if that doesn't fix it, new mid range horn required as the coil will be open circuit.
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Old 1st July 2017, 03:56 PM   #4
kanaddict is offline kanaddict  Canada
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Quote:
Originally Posted by JonSnell Electronic View Post
If you have it mounted within the speaker enclosure, I would look for bad connections or broken lead on a component.
There are only two components it could be, the series components.
Place a capacitor across the series cap, if it doesn't recover it is the resistor and if that doesn't fix it, new mid range horn required as the coil will be open circuit.
Good suggestion. What I could do is to use a full range driver and simply bypass the cap to see if it recover. If not, I'll do the same with the resistor. What do you think ?
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Old 1st July 2017, 05:58 PM   #5
kanaddict is offline kanaddict  Canada
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The parts work well, I was able to identify a bad connection. I will redo the solder and everything should be fine for another 10 years.

Thanks
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