Hi DIYAudio Friends,
Im new to the forum and always wanted to build my own speakers and I finally caved in when I installed some Focal speakers in a friends car and loved how they sound and made me want to build some speakers for my media room. I done some brief research and found that ScanSpeak do some good Tweeters and after going to their website and looking around the Hifi shops in ton I noticed that they are used in a lot of speakers from different companys, I even read somewhere that some head of speaker design said that there is no point of competeing with ScanSpeak because they already make a great Tweeter for decent price only if they were chasing something outside the norm would they design and make their own Tweeter. So that was good enough for me to jump on ScanSpeak. I have always loved the black poly drivers from Peerless and seen a few people use them and by looking at the graphs even with my limited knowledge it looks like the 5.25" & 6.5" are pretty decent and around the size I would want.
I have a Yamaha 1060 AVR I bought from a friend and I want to make a full Atmos 5.1.2 setup. I want to make the LCR all the same and as thin in depth as possible so I can one day fit them behind a Transparent screen. I want to make 2 surrounds and 2 ceiling speakers. I don't want to hide the speakers in the ceiling but cutting holes I love the Atmos Cinema Theater speaker look. It should go well with the white ceiling HAHA. The missus will love them ;-)
The other thing is I want to try and get away with out having to run a separate amp as it could get costly.
In drunken daze I bought some items last night. At the moment I'm limited to funds so just bought a few different things to play with and try and work through it then buy the gear once I have a working plan.
Items I have so far
1x Peerless 6.5" HDS Poly 830874
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-ppb-830874-6.5-poly-cone-woofer/
2x Peerless 5.25 PPB Poly 830860
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-woofers/peerless-ppb-830860-5.25-poly-cone-woofer/
2x ScanSpeak R2604-833000
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...covery-r2604/8330-tweeter-dual-ring-radiator/
2x 2" dia Reflex Port
1x 2.5" dia Reflex Port
Have a sheet of 18mm MDF already at home and two routers, circular saw drill and clamps etc. I also have a Umik-1 I can use if needed.
Was thinking of trying a MTM with 2x 5.25" Woofers + R2604-833000 Tweeter
For surrounds 1x 6.5" woofer + R2604-833000
I haven't ordered any crossover bits yet and this will be my first crossover that I have made so looking forward to it and hopefully I can get some speakers working and duplicate it for more speakers to fill out my room finally.
Any help would be great. I know there is still a lot to do and I'm busy reading and watching YT videos to gain more knowledge as I go but just thought I should post this so people can help keep me on track and so I can share my progress. I hope this all made sense, Im a little tired and about to go to sleep, Thanks lads hope to hear from you. Cheers
Im new to the forum and always wanted to build my own speakers and I finally caved in when I installed some Focal speakers in a friends car and loved how they sound and made me want to build some speakers for my media room. I done some brief research and found that ScanSpeak do some good Tweeters and after going to their website and looking around the Hifi shops in ton I noticed that they are used in a lot of speakers from different companys, I even read somewhere that some head of speaker design said that there is no point of competeing with ScanSpeak because they already make a great Tweeter for decent price only if they were chasing something outside the norm would they design and make their own Tweeter. So that was good enough for me to jump on ScanSpeak. I have always loved the black poly drivers from Peerless and seen a few people use them and by looking at the graphs even with my limited knowledge it looks like the 5.25" & 6.5" are pretty decent and around the size I would want.
I have a Yamaha 1060 AVR I bought from a friend and I want to make a full Atmos 5.1.2 setup. I want to make the LCR all the same and as thin in depth as possible so I can one day fit them behind a Transparent screen. I want to make 2 surrounds and 2 ceiling speakers. I don't want to hide the speakers in the ceiling but cutting holes I love the Atmos Cinema Theater speaker look. It should go well with the white ceiling HAHA. The missus will love them ;-)
The other thing is I want to try and get away with out having to run a separate amp as it could get costly.
In drunken daze I bought some items last night. At the moment I'm limited to funds so just bought a few different things to play with and try and work through it then buy the gear once I have a working plan.
Items I have so far
1x Peerless 6.5" HDS Poly 830874
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/peerless-woofers-6-7/peerless-ppb-830874-6.5-poly-cone-woofer/
2x Peerless 5.25 PPB Poly 830860
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-5-woofers/peerless-ppb-830860-5.25-poly-cone-woofer/
2x ScanSpeak R2604-833000
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...covery-r2604/8330-tweeter-dual-ring-radiator/
2x 2" dia Reflex Port
1x 2.5" dia Reflex Port
Have a sheet of 18mm MDF already at home and two routers, circular saw drill and clamps etc. I also have a Umik-1 I can use if needed.
Was thinking of trying a MTM with 2x 5.25" Woofers + R2604-833000 Tweeter
For surrounds 1x 6.5" woofer + R2604-833000
I haven't ordered any crossover bits yet and this will be my first crossover that I have made so looking forward to it and hopefully I can get some speakers working and duplicate it for more speakers to fill out my room finally.
Any help would be great. I know there is still a lot to do and I'm busy reading and watching YT videos to gain more knowledge as I go but just thought I should post this so people can help keep me on track and so I can share my progress. I hope this all made sense, Im a little tired and about to go to sleep, Thanks lads hope to hear from you. Cheers
Here is a good thread with links to videos to help you design crossovers, hope that helps and good luck.
How to use Passive Crossover Designer by Jeff Bagby - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
How to use Passive Crossover Designer by Jeff Bagby - AVS Forum | Home Theater Discussions And Reviews
In some cabinets. Using them as surrounds. I used dayton caps, ceramic resistors, air core coils in a pretty stock standard LR2 crossover. 40mm port. I have a pair of 830860 aswell that I want to put into a desktop mono mtm bluetooth speaker. Im eyeing up a TC9 build for a smaller bluetooth speaker too but when I look into it I keep getting stuck with going a 2.1 amp board or a 2.0 board with a simple crossover with a woofer that integrates with the TC9. But thats all for well down the track.
I love all sound systems except them little bose speakers and them dr dre pills lol.
The TC9 are bang from buck from what Ive read around the place. Its for a small system for at work. I also want to try nut out a MTM with the same 830874 & 833000 combo but i have to look more into the 4ohm vs 8ohm for the mids.
That ring radiator is pretty damn good for its price. I rate it very highly in my limited diy speaker career. Im looking at getting the peerless xt25gb and comparing they look the same and basically same company but think one is made in china and the other is denmark. For half the price its worth a crack. Eventually I will deck out a whole room with the them for a HT.
Nice. 
XT25BG? Those are the exact tweeters I'm putting into my speakers. A hopeful upgrade from Visaton SC 10 N. I do think they will be difficult to make into MTM, though. Perhaps look at the NE19VTS? They appear to be great, and at only about 5 cm diameter, they might work better in MTM configuration than the XT25BG's.
XT25BG? Those are the exact tweeters I'm putting into my speakers. A hopeful upgrade from Visaton SC 10 N. I do think they will be difficult to make into MTM, though. Perhaps look at the NE19VTS? They appear to be great, and at only about 5 cm diameter, they might work better in MTM configuration than the XT25BG's.
I have a pretty good computer generated design thats flat with very few components. But dont know how it is in the real world.Nice.
XT25BG? Those are the exact tweeters I'm putting into my speakers. A hopeful upgrade from Visaton SC 10 N. I do think they will be difficult to make into MTM, though. Perhaps look at the NE19VTS? They appear to be great, and at only about 5 cm diameter, they might work better in MTM configuration than the XT25BG's.
If you have the MTM for only the Front, Center, Right and all vertical and at ear height or within a foot then I cant see them being a problem at all. having 3 LCR horizontal would surely be bad.
The great strength of MTM is the improved dynamic range or power handling from a small driver. There are so many ways to skin a cat with the crossover, that some research is indicated.
Here's a nice MT design with the 830860:
Peerless HDS PPB 830860
The R2604/8320 is just the smaller magnet version of your 8330. 2dB quieter so an easy resistor adjustment on the tweeter circuit.
D'appolito conversion is also easy. Vifa PL14WJ-
That circuit will work with almost any 5" drivers. Below.
I have some pleasant 5" speakers which use the rarer BW3 idea which Joe D'Appolito advocated for MTM style too, this has different and better dispersion at crossover:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-45.html#post5139615
IMO, at least 10-12L reflex per driver. 5" can surprise you with bass.
Here's a nice MT design with the 830860:
Peerless HDS PPB 830860
The R2604/8320 is just the smaller magnet version of your 8330. 2dB quieter so an easy resistor adjustment on the tweeter circuit.
D'appolito conversion is also easy. Vifa PL14WJ-
That circuit will work with almost any 5" drivers. Below.
I have some pleasant 5" speakers which use the rarer BW3 idea which Joe D'Appolito advocated for MTM style too, this has different and better dispersion at crossover:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-45.html#post5139615
IMO, at least 10-12L reflex per driver. 5" can surprise you with bass.
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They need a LIKE button! Thanks friend! I will check this out. What Program is D'appolito using?The great strength of MTM is the improved dynamic range or power handling from a small driver. There are so many ways to skin a cat with the crossover, that some research is indicated.
Here's a nice MT design with the 830860:
Peerless HDS PPB 830860
The R2604/8320 is just the smaller magnet version of your 8330. 2dB quieter so an easy resistor adjustment on the tweeter circuit.
D'appolito conversion is also easy. Vifa PL14WJ-
That circuit will work with almost any 5" drivers. Below.
I have some pleasant 5" speakers which use the rarer BW3 idea which Joe D'Appolito advocated for MTM style too, this has different and better dispersion at crossover:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/147632-classic-monitor-designs-45.html#post5139615
IMO, at least 10-12L reflex per driver. 5" can surprise you with bass.
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I use a very intuitive interpretation with Visaton Boxsim.
Find a similar project and similar drivers and you rapidly get an idea how it works. This Couplet Light MTM bpj project can be copied to the projekte file and fiddled with.
This is particularly useful if you need to reduce tweeter level 2dB in Troels' circuits. Which are easily inserted into projects like this. IMO, most good circuits will work with a whole range of similar drivers. It's easy enough to look at a frequency response for two similar drivers and figure out how that affects loudness.
Find a similar project and similar drivers and you rapidly get an idea how it works. This Couplet Light MTM bpj project can be copied to the projekte file and fiddled with.
This is particularly useful if you need to reduce tweeter level 2dB in Troels' circuits. Which are easily inserted into projects like this. IMO, most good circuits will work with a whole range of similar drivers. It's easy enough to look at a frequency response for two similar drivers and figure out how that affects loudness.
I somehow missed this thread. I have a very similar design online, feel free to take data files and adapt.
A Speaker Maker's Journey: Introducing the LM-1C
The data files should be on this thread:
The LM-1 DIY Speaker is Available
A Speaker Maker's Journey: Introducing the LM-1C
The data files should be on this thread:
The LM-1 DIY Speaker is Available
Thanks Erik!
The tweeter is sooo asking to be smashed in by a kid haha. "Oooooo look its a button!"
Kids just love pressing in tweeter domes, IMO. Whatever the design.
I think you are in quite a happy place with your drivers, especially the 5" Peerless 830860 which is almost ruler-flat. We know the R2604-8330 tweeter is about 2dB louder than the 8320. Shouldn't be hard to build this MT Troels design: Peerless HDS PPB 830860
My old mate Troels is probably as lazy as the rest of us in using an existing 8L cabinet. But, IMO, you can use 12L and shorten the port slightly for deeper bass. R1011 possibly should be adjusted to 4.7R for correct level.
All you have to do for his MT design is adjust tweeter level down about 2dB. A very nice 5" speaker with a pleasant sounding ring-radiator. Possibly expensive scanspeak have higher quality control than cheaper Vifa. My only advice is that a 5" speaker doesn't go terribly loud without distorting. Just how it is. All, in speakers, is compromise.
I think you are in quite a happy place with your drivers, especially the 5" Peerless 830860 which is almost ruler-flat. We know the R2604-8330 tweeter is about 2dB louder than the 8320. Shouldn't be hard to build this MT Troels design: Peerless HDS PPB 830860
My old mate Troels is probably as lazy as the rest of us in using an existing 8L cabinet. But, IMO, you can use 12L and shorten the port slightly for deeper bass. R1011 possibly should be adjusted to 4.7R for correct level.
All you have to do for his MT design is adjust tweeter level down about 2dB. A very nice 5" speaker with a pleasant sounding ring-radiator. Possibly expensive scanspeak have higher quality control than cheaper Vifa. My only advice is that a 5" speaker doesn't go terribly loud without distorting. Just how it is. All, in speakers, is compromise.
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