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Old 13th June 2017, 07:17 PM   #11
chrisb is offline chrisb  Canada
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So to the question of "something along the lines of ..." - I'd opine that any DIY speaker project should include application / venue at the top of the list of calculus factors.

A simple "sound bar" with full range drivers up to approx 4", a single 6" or so mid-bass and small class D 2.1 channel amp should be easy enough to achieve . There are probably dozens of examples in these fora - the builder's choice of components will of course most likely represent their personal tastes.

I happen to quite like the Mark Audio and Fostex family of drivers for FR, Peerless for affordable mid bass, and Sure or YJ for the 2.1 amp board. https://www.parts-express.com/yuan-j...20-6510http://
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Old 13th June 2017, 09:29 PM   #12
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I'm gearing up right now to build something similar. I plan to use it for campouts, so will be battery driven (or AC) and use high efficiency class D power amp boards that I got at Parts Express. It will have two Peerless TG9FD1008 3.5 inch full range drivers, and two Peerless 3.5 inch passive radiators, no actual woofer, but will have a line out in case I want to add a separate woofer later. The TG9's are low efficiency (85dB), but are very Hi-Fi. It will have only an AUX in and a blue tooth receiver, so my smart phone can act as a remote control and store all the music (or pull it in off the web if that's obtainable). I'm not wild about using passive radiators to get more bass, but I wanted to keep the project real small. Those TG9's at $22 each (at Madisound) compete well with the very best out there.

The enclosure will be the weak link - it needs to be non-resonant. Parallel walls should be avoided if possible. Good internal acoustic padding will make all the difference. I glue thick felt (or equivalent) to all internal surfaces (with liquid nail glue or equiv.), then I glue some foam rubber on top of that, then loosely fill the rest with synthetic fiberglass fluffed up, thereby creating a somewhat "gaussian" energy dissipater for the back waves. It won't do low bass, but should be enjoyable enough. Getting good low bass outdoors takes a lot of power. There's no walls to reinforce the bass energy.

With no background in electronics, it will be challenging to get that part right, but it's doable.
I haven't personally tried one of these, but I hear good things about this amp:
https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-...pply--310-3000

At $30 it seems worth trying. It has bass and treble controls (thank god) but no built in bluetooth. BT receivers are available at Parts express separately. The BT receiver probably needs a 5 volt supply, and the amp needs at least 12VDC and can probably run on a higher supply (up to 26 volts DC according to the chip spec sheet - I wouldn't go above about 20 volts though for better reliability) for more wattage (volume). So you'd need to include a 5 volt regulator circuit (7805 reg chip, a series resistor and caps) for the bluetooth circuit. A spec sheet on the web will show you how to wire that up. Don't "daisy chain" ground connections. Tie them all to a common point at the power supply where there's a big filter cap (at least 1000uF) across whatever power source you use. Oh, and if you want to run on batteries, Lithium costs 5 times more than lead acid, but lasts 10 times longer, and weighs MUCH less. Apparently the 18650 Lithium batteries are what many people are using and happy with. PE has those as well as a charging circuit board (KAB-BE) optimized for those batteries.

Since I'm picky about the sound, I plan to use a 4 section Baxadall tone control circuit I designed and built for the preamp, and I've got some class D pwr amp boards from PE that actually work well (2 out of 3 different models didn't). I'm also might use some high efficiency (switch mode) voltage booster boards from PE so a 12 volt battery will actually supply about 20VDC to the pwr amp boards, for significantly more power.

Last edited by Bob Richards; 13th June 2017 at 09:40 PM.
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Old 14th June 2017, 04:47 AM   #13
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Hi neighbor.

Hmmm, how about using some nice coaxials from Seas?

You could do it as a bar, or you could build two small speakers.

Here is one of several examples:

https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.co...abric-coaxial/

The crossover is done for you. All you have to do is create an enclosure of the right volume, and you could do 2 in one box, if you isolate the space. Click on the "application notes" and you'll have ready made speakers. You just have to adapt the box a little.

Best,

E
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Old 14th June 2017, 05:20 AM   #14
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It doesn't work like this, Erik; the channels need to be phisically separate.
Otherwise, we could accept a joint stereo single channel.
But since we have two tracks available ...
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Old 14th June 2017, 05:25 AM   #15
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More over, the thing is doable but not hifi. It works with little power but when it comes to shaking walls, I mean...from the particular: wood itself is not a good acoustic barrier.
Many layers are needed to make an enclosure acoustically inert.
An easy solution is to make two separate enclosures, eh ?
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Old 14th June 2017, 06:38 AM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioSF View Post
as far as wiring speakers, amps, and related electrical I am a novice. I can solder, it's just I need guidance as to parts to use
It is surprisingly easy to make a low power system, like the one in the link. It is more like Lego than electronics.

AMP:

https://www.parts-express.com/21-hi-...8-vdc--320-608

this or similar. Power it for free by re-using the power brick from an old appliance.

SUB:

https://www.parts-express.com/dayton...oofer--295-305

Good enough. For this budget / power, "real" subs that handle tons of power are not sensible.

MAINS:

The original $2,000 TABLETOP HIFI looks like it uses this TangBand 4"

https://www.parts-express.com/tang-b...river--264-848

Some other possibilities (you can look them, and many more, up on this forum):

Visaton B80
Scan Speak 10F

I'd suggest staying with these (or other SIMPLE full range drivers that have pretty flat response), so there is nothing to calculate or 'fix'. You won't have to learn how to do build crossovers.

The only fine tuning you'll really need to do is to adjust the gain of the sub.

---
Other notes:

An active and configurable (miniDSP) build is cool, but there's a learning curve + it would murder your $200 budget.

Other solutions (two separate enclosures) will be more flexible / possibly sound better. But don't overthink it - particularly for a first time builder, you could do a lot worse than just cloning the $2,000 TABLETOP HIFI for $200.

I say just go ahead and make yourself a pretty little system.
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Old 14th June 2017, 08:33 AM   #17
Lojzek is offline Lojzek  Croatia
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Erik's idea of using Seas co-axials is pretty cool and one don't have to bother with adding a mini subwoofer. A little bit more expensive with a potential to build the sound bar from 3 pieces of enclosures that can be joined together for saving space or detached for better stereo imaging if occasion permits.

edit: Dayton Audio offers some cute little 3,5" full range woofers with Fs around 70 Hz and Vas 1,5 litres and when you add an ND25FN-4 dome tweeter with only 41 mm diameter, makes it possible to build a compact sound bar costing not too much and one could model a XO filter with factory curves.
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Last edited by Lojzek; 14th June 2017 at 08:59 AM.
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Old 14th June 2017, 03:58 PM   #18
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Pico,

As I wrote, "if you isolate the space" - I was thinking you could do a single stereo bar with 2 coaxials, or just do 2 separate speakers.

The crossover might be a little off however as the baffle shape is off, but my guess is good enough for a hobbyist.

Best,

E
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Old 15th June 2017, 11:44 AM   #19
This speaker DIY thing, it's pretty addicting!
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Maybe this is what you're looking to build?

noisePlank - a simple folded TL with TG9FD10

Mike
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Old 15th June 2017, 01:20 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by AudioSF View Post
It was never my intent to try and "poach someone's livelihood/design" as 5string replied. I liked the look of this design, and since I have a woodworking background I knew that aspect of the build is something I could accomplish. I have lots of Baltic Birch ply, and MDF in my shop, as well as some beautiful exotic woods that would make a nice face for the enclosure. My original thought was since I had these woods already, and can do the construction myself, I could assemble something like this for much less than $2,000 - I was thinking the speaker components, etc. would run around $200 or less (Parts Express quick estimate).

I understand if someone came to this forum saying I want to copy this exactly, and mass produce them at a lower cost, as that wouldn't be very respectful. I do not have $2,000 to purchase one, so I guess I thought building one myself for less money was ok to do. I can assure you, I'm making a total of ONE of these for my personal use.

If I have offended anyone, I apologize.
You are looking for a laid back sound (medium oriented typical daylong radio listening), without immersive bass and trebles (more physical and fatiguing listening) ?
This design is for you !

What kind of sound are you looking for ?
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