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Old 28th March 2004, 11:20 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally posted by MITMechE
I agree Navin, lots of waste and lots of time to make each layer if you don't have access to a cnc router.

-snip-For the translam approach I'd need 122 layers and 21 4 x 8 sheets of mdf.-snip-

I used 38mm mdf for my layered bass units - inc. 2x layers of 18mm ply = 20 layers per side.

I think I used about 4-5 sheets 38mm

which type of stuffing?

Cheers

Rob
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Old 28th March 2004, 07:06 PM   #12
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I used exactly 3 sheets of 2400 x 1200 (8' x 4') mdf at 25mm (1") thick.

The cnc work was perfect. Nice sharp edges, etc. Took them over 2 hours to cut everything. Each rib has 6 10mm registration holes in it which I'll slide dowels thru to line it all up. I start gluing it up next weekend.

What the major advantage to the extra expense of more board and cnc cutting is, is that cabinet assembly is like putting together a big 3D puzzle. Lots of gluing and time but I'm expecting it to be very satisfying from a DIY perspective.

They'll be heavy

Mos
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Old 28th March 2004, 07:57 PM   #13
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For anyone with a router:

Make a template for one of the sides of the cabinet and use your flush-cutting bit to make perfect copies out of, say, 1" MDF. Glue enough of them on top of one another and you have one side (make sure to clamp).
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Old 1st April 2004, 10:30 PM   #14
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Default laminated side jig

to explain the process I used to to make the curved panels shown above I have created the picture shown below. The green part of the image is the former, this can be made as a tramslam by pattern routing 30 or 40 profiles and gluing them together

The sheets for lamination (shown in pale brown)are cut to size, tite bond applied with a roller to all the faces at once and bound at both ends with parcel tape to keep alignment and placed in the jig as shown.

I have only drawn one set of clamps but I had 5 sets on a 40" length. The pink pressure rails are screwed to the top clamp bar to keep them at the correct spacing and the gray rods are lengths of threaded rod and nuts and washers. You then move around the jig tightening the nuts one or two turns at a time, until the edges of the laminates are pressed down on to the base. Leave the whole thing over night and the next day you have one perfectly curved panel. I used some pre-veneered 6 mm mdf I had lying about but it would be easy to veneer the curved panels at this point.
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Old 1st April 2004, 11:08 PM   #15
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Once the panels are made I cut the endpanels to fit the inside curvature using a router on a trammel, I establish the correct radius by trial and error and then make the set of 6 in one go (4 ends plus two braces)

I position the end panels in this jig by using small diameter dowels (1/4") placed on the center line of the endplates, these dowels are then used to center the end caps on the strongback, purple in the image below.

The orange ends are clamped in this jig and the curved side panels glued in place. Once the glue has dried the clamps are removed and the blue strongback fitted.

The flat outer surfaces of the strongbacks provide the register surface for trimming the edges of the panels using a router.

To finish I edge the front and back mdf panels with solid wood and after fitting the brace bitumen panels and wadding The are glued on using the dowels for alignment

When dry a combination of routers and handplaning finished the curved corners
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