Enclosure w/ curved sides, need your help - Page 2 - diyAudio
Go Back   Home > Forums > Loudspeakers > Multi-Way
Home Forums Rules Articles diyAudio Store Gallery Wiki Blogs Register Donations FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

Please consider donating to help us continue to serve you.

Ads on/off / Custom Title / More PMs / More album space / Advanced printing & mass image saving
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 28th March 2004, 11:20 AM   #11
diyAudio Member
RobWells's Avatar
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: UK
Originally posted by MITMechE
I agree Navin, lots of waste and lots of time to make each layer if you don't have access to a cnc router.

-snip-For the translam approach I'd need 122 layers and 21 4 x 8 sheets of mdf.-snip-

I used 38mm mdf for my layered bass units - inc. 2x layers of 18mm ply = 20 layers per side.

I think I used about 4-5 sheets 38mm

which type of stuffing?


Attached Images
File Type: jpg robspk1.jpg (23.4 KB, 575 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2004, 07:06 PM   #12
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: New Zealand
I used exactly 3 sheets of 2400 x 1200 (8' x 4') mdf at 25mm (1") thick.

The cnc work was perfect. Nice sharp edges, etc. Took them over 2 hours to cut everything. Each rib has 6 10mm registration holes in it which I'll slide dowels thru to line it all up. I start gluing it up next weekend.

What the major advantage to the extra expense of more board and cnc cutting is, is that cabinet assembly is like putting together a big 3D puzzle. Lots of gluing and time but I'm expecting it to be very satisfying from a DIY perspective.

They'll be heavy

  Reply With Quote
Old 28th March 2004, 07:57 PM   #13
diyAudio Member
coolkhoa's Avatar
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Houston
Send a message via AIM to coolkhoa Send a message via MSN to coolkhoa Send a message via Yahoo to coolkhoa
For anyone with a router:

Make a template for one of the sides of the cabinet and use your flush-cutting bit to make perfect copies out of, say, 1" MDF. Glue enough of them on top of one another and you have one side (make sure to clamp).
KTK. Kool To the Kore.
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2004, 10:30 PM   #14
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: somerset england
Default laminated side jig

to explain the process I used to to make the curved panels shown above I have created the picture shown below. The green part of the image is the former, this can be made as a tramslam by pattern routing 30 or 40 profiles and gluing them together

The sheets for lamination (shown in pale brown)are cut to size, tite bond applied with a roller to all the faces at once and bound at both ends with parcel tape to keep alignment and placed in the jig as shown.

I have only drawn one set of clamps but I had 5 sets on a 40" length. The pink pressure rails are screwed to the top clamp bar to keep them at the correct spacing and the gray rods are lengths of threaded rod and nuts and washers. You then move around the jig tightening the nuts one or two turns at a time, until the edges of the laminates are pressed down on to the base. Leave the whole thing over night and the next day you have one perfectly curved panel. I used some pre-veneered 6 mm mdf I had lying about but it would be easy to veneer the curved panels at this point.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg speaker-clamp.jpg (39.5 KB, 426 views)
  Reply With Quote
Old 1st April 2004, 11:08 PM   #15
diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: somerset england
Once the panels are made I cut the endpanels to fit the inside curvature using a router on a trammel, I establish the correct radius by trial and error and then make the set of 6 in one go (4 ends plus two braces)

I position the end panels in this jig by using small diameter dowels (1/4") placed on the center line of the endplates, these dowels are then used to center the end caps on the strongback, purple in the image below.

The orange ends are clamped in this jig and the curved side panels glued in place. Once the glue has dried the clamps are removed and the blue strongback fitted.

The flat outer surfaces of the strongbacks provide the register surface for trimming the edges of the panels using a router.

To finish I edge the front and back mdf panels with solid wood and after fitting the brace bitumen panels and wadding The are glued on using the dowels for alignment

When dry a combination of routers and handplaning finished the curved corners
Attached Images
File Type: jpg strongback.jpg (23.2 KB, 401 views)
  Reply With Quote


Hide this!Advertise here!
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Scrap enclosure because of uneven sides and back panel not flush? omarmipi Multi-Way 15 13th December 2006 08:36 PM
Beginning of the end? Second project, Mini Datyon8 curved sides. officeboy Multi-Way 0 19th January 2004 05:16 PM
Curved sides... Kongen Multi-Way 6 3rd January 2004 09:14 PM
Curved enclosure simulation jouch Multi-Way 0 10th September 2003 08:26 AM
Seeking links to curved sides DIY loudspeakers.... Andy G Multi-Way 1 9th June 2003 10:30 AM

New To Site? Need Help?

All times are GMT. The time now is 10:53 PM.

vBulletin Optimisation provided by vB Optimise (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2017 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Copyright 1999-2017 diyAudio

Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.3.2