This is a helpful article on baffle step Baffle Step Compensation
edit: note that the equalizer is a line level (pre amplifier one) and is just one of many ways of dealing with baffle step. The main point of linking is that it has a good explanation of the phenomenon.
Tony.
edit: note that the equalizer is a line level (pre amplifier one) and is just one of many ways of dealing with baffle step. The main point of linking is that it has a good explanation of the phenomenon.
Tony.
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I think my crossover is not what I thought it was - quality wise... It crosses at 800 and 5000 but can be adjusted to cross at 1600 and 7200Hz.
I think I should first do the cabinet fixes (chamfers and stuffing) before I play with the cross over. Might be that the midrange is being attenuated by it... So I'll connect the mid strait to the amp bypassing the crossover.
I think I should first do the cabinet fixes (chamfers and stuffing) before I play with the cross over. Might be that the midrange is being attenuated by it... So I'll connect the mid strait to the amp bypassing the crossover.
Our hearing is tuned to peaks, especially broadband ones, so need to completely re-think the XO to flatten the mid driver's frequency response, re-tune the cab to get rid of the low end 'boom' and may also need to cut off the GRS's whizzer as it will audibly comb filter with the mids in the ~2500-5000 Hz octave if not rolled off by the XO to > -18 dB or -24 dB for the more keen of hearing.
GM
Well, it's the state of the business, cheap oem drivers about which the factory itself only specifies cone diameter, nominal imedance, voice coil material and diameter, magnet weight, and become a little nervous when required ( full...
) TS parameters...Another same class substitution driver for the Pioneer, tested years ago by Nelson Pass:
https://www.parts-express.com/goldwood-gw-8003-8-8-full-range-driver-w-whizzer--290-379
I gotta say the GRS fullrange seems a strange choice for what you are trying to do. I use the GRS 8 and 10 inch woofers all the time, and am happy with what they do.
You should look on this as an opportunity to learn about crossovers. I don't see anything there that can't be fixed with some crossover work.
You should look on this as an opportunity to learn about crossovers. I don't see anything there that can't be fixed with some crossover work.
If, like me, you believed the specifications of this driver, it would do well to get low frequency bass as the resonant frequency is 39Hz and sensitivity is 91db. Which is what I wanted for a 8" cheap'ish driver. The mid and tweeter are also at about 90db.
I have tested a little more. I need to change the cross over points. 800Hz needs to go down to about 300~400Hz while the upper needs to drop to 4000Hz. The midrange speaker is not low enough and the bass is working in the midrange and shouldn't.
In listening to these the bass sounded great and the high nice and clear. But the bass driver cant cope with higher frequencies - even though it says it can...
But of course, I may be totally wrong...
I like to play with this. Cross overs are not simple devices and boxes have massive influence on the final sound of the speaker.
One thing that is botherring me as well, would you do a slot port or round port for a speaker like this?
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Nor slot nor round port: NO PORT, straight closed box. That woofer is total rubbish, understand this or not?
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You should also rethink this: too much (self) indulgence for the crap material involved...
I have a pair of the GRS 8" fullrange. They are not rubbish, but they are maybe not the best choice for what you are doing. The 8" paper cone GRS is a better woofer for this.
But you have what you have, and shipping is high to S.A., so you gotta deal with it. You'll need to cross that woofer low, and maybe steeply, to deal with the output from the whizzer cone. You don't need the whizzer output, that's what your midrange is for. Thier overlap may be hurting you.
You could try running without the midrange, just 8" and tweeter, but those crossovers can be tricky.
But you have what you have, and shipping is high to S.A., so you gotta deal with it. You'll need to cross that woofer low, and maybe steeply, to deal with the output from the whizzer cone. You don't need the whizzer output, that's what your midrange is for. Thier overlap may be hurting you.
You could try running without the midrange, just 8" and tweeter, but those crossovers can be tricky.
Looks like I found my problem!!!
I did nearfield testing on the drivers and there is a distinct drop at 750Hz and again at 4kHz. So I will move the cross-over frequencies to 500Hz (filter the bump on the midrange at 650Hz) and then change the 5kHz crossing to 3500Hz. The sound should then be sorted
I did nearfield testing on the drivers and there is a distinct drop at 750Hz and again at 4kHz. So I will move the cross-over frequencies to 500Hz (filter the bump on the midrange at 650Hz) and then change the 5kHz crossing to 3500Hz. The sound should then be sorted
Of course I would like to show you...
I still need to do a couple of things - like chamfer the edges, finish the left box port and add the wood veneer. Its getting there
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
I still need to do a couple of things - like chamfer the edges, finish the left box port and add the wood veneer. Its getting there
The sound is fixed!!! Just listening to the speaker I can hear the difference. The midrange is now as it should be. I played a bit but crossing it in at 630Hz worked the best. That huge bump at 650Hz on the midrange is damped by using a 6dB type crossover and the woofer fades out from 800Hz.* I added the batting inside and did the chamfers on the edges.
Now I just need to make it pretty - do the wood veneer etc
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
Now I just need to make it pretty - do the wood veneer etc
Sent from my SM-G930F using Tapatalk
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