Hello All,
I've got an old pair of Niles MP650 in-wall speakers and was wondering if I could put them into an enclosure to make some book shelf speakers? I've read a few posts on various sites that say they would sound horrible because that was not their intended purpose. I was curious if anyone has had success doing this? is there a formula that could be used to determine enclosure dimensions? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
I've got an old pair of Niles MP650 in-wall speakers and was wondering if I could put them into an enclosure to make some book shelf speakers? I've read a few posts on various sites that say they would sound horrible because that was not their intended purpose. I was curious if anyone has had success doing this? is there a formula that could be used to determine enclosure dimensions? Any ideas or suggestions would be appreciated.
Certainly, it can be made to work properly in an enclosure. You should download a free and great software measurement suite from ARTA labs and within LIMP module measure impedance and TS parameters, then load these to a box simulation program which already has implemented formula to calculate needed volume for a certain cut-off frequency. You'll need a soundcard to do that measurement. After that share the findings with us. It's an easy job. We can talk about the sound once it is in the cabinet for then it will be obvious if any modifications will be needed. Usually when you change from an in-wall system to an enclosure design, the baffle step reinforcement of the frequencies will make midrange band somewhat louder and if that will be the case, we will worry about it then.
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All these are designed to be compatible with a USA's typical 92.625" x 14.5" x 3.5" stud wall cavity = ~2.72 ft^3, which tends to be leaky to boot, so as you shrink the cab down to baffle size it becomes increasingly under-damped with a 'booming' mid-bass, but if you can EQ it and/or adequately stuff it, it may work out for you, though with the pair I did [Polk Audio], I had to also 'gap' the woofer [space it away from the baffle] to bleed off/vent it with some open cell foam scrap to fill the gap against dust, insects and add a little more damping.
With no flush mount to a large wall, you may have to use a bit of EQ to deal with baffle step loss, though I got lucky as I was able to tune the 'vent' high enough that combined with the somewhat under-damped cab alignment was able to get it sounding good enough by ear for the intended app.
GM
With no flush mount to a large wall, you may have to use a bit of EQ to deal with baffle step loss, though I got lucky as I was able to tune the 'vent' high enough that combined with the somewhat under-damped cab alignment was able to get it sounding good enough by ear for the intended app.
GM
Definitely! 
My point though is that my one experience using just high Qt drivers [up to 2.45!] on the several different depth bookcases I have is that without a pillow or similar to break up all the various reflections it was a garbled mess. An angled box worked OK, but not an angled OB, so gave it up as a viable option.
GM
My point though is that my one experience using just high Qt drivers [up to 2.45!] on the several different depth bookcases I have is that without a pillow or similar to break up all the various reflections it was a garbled mess. An angled box worked OK, but not an angled OB, so gave it up as a viable option.GM
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