Hello!
Is anybody have crossovers wiring diagram(schematic) for Dali Opticon 8 ??
I want upgrade crossovers ,maybe anybody have upgraded schematic too??
Thanks....
Is anybody have crossovers wiring diagram(schematic) for Dali Opticon 8 ??
I want upgrade crossovers ,maybe anybody have upgraded schematic too??
Thanks....
Hi Vortex,
I googled around and found this picture:
If this is correct, then the top board (in the pic) is the probably tweeter and super-tweeter driver. The coils are probably Jensen air-core, no reaason to change them. The caps you will be able to read the values off of them, and same for the resistors.
Given the hot glue, you may be best off making a new board and salvaging the coils, maybe not. 🙂
In any event, the important parts are the caps and resistors. My recommendation is to replace the resistors with Mills of equal or greater wattage, and use Clarity CSA or CMR (depending on budget) for the caps.
Best,
E
I googled around and found this picture:
If this is correct, then the top board (in the pic) is the probably tweeter and super-tweeter driver. The coils are probably Jensen air-core, no reaason to change them. The caps you will be able to read the values off of them, and same for the resistors.
Given the hot glue, you may be best off making a new board and salvaging the coils, maybe not. 🙂
In any event, the important parts are the caps and resistors. My recommendation is to replace the resistors with Mills of equal or greater wattage, and use Clarity CSA or CMR (depending on budget) for the caps.
Best,
E
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Below this board, you will probably find the midrange (the smallest cone). Again, if you want to, I'd suggest you replace electrolytics in series with the same caps as above, leaving the coils alone, and leave any shunt-caps alone too.
Best,
E
Best,
E
Anyone else:
What are those silver disks used as solder points? Are those actually hardware you can purchase or is it just an artifact of the soldering?
Best,
E
What are those silver disks used as solder points? Are those actually hardware you can purchase or is it just an artifact of the soldering?
Best,
E
I put together a quick XSim from what I can see you'll find it attached. This should be treated as guess-work until you can validate the ins and outs yourself, but I thought it might help you get started.
C1 is the yellow cap which I can't quite read. I am guessing it says 0.68uF
The coils you should keep as-is. No reason to change them, plus you'd have to measure them to find their values.
C1 is the yellow cap which I can't quite read. I am guessing it says 0.68uF
The coils you should keep as-is. No reason to change them, plus you'd have to measure them to find their values.
Attachments
I put together a quick XSim from what I can see you'll find it attached. This should be treated as guess-work until you can validate the ins and outs yourself, but I thought it might help you get started.
C1 is the yellow cap which I can't quite read. I am guessing it says 0.68uF
The coils you should keep as-is. No reason to change them, plus you'd have to measure them to find their values.
Hello!
Today I opened one crossover and there is pictures...
Attachments
I dont know what next,these ClarityCap capacitors very expensive,maybe I will use something else,but what choose? I am living in Estonia and there one company Estelon (http://www.estelon.com/company/),they use teflon-hybrid and these speakers are very good quality.
Very hard choose these capacitors(company,type...),what you think about these teflon-hybrid or Mundorf or something else??
Mundorf MKP are my go-to caps for cheap but good. In the schematic I drew, C1/C2/C3 are your most important caps.
For the midrange, I might suggest you try bypassing the 2 caps in series with Mundorf caps about 1-3% of the value. So if you have a 100uF cap, use about 1uF to 2uF as a bypass cap. This will save you a lot of money. 🙂
Also, consider replacing series resistors R1/R2 with Mills of equal or greater wattage.
Best,
E
For the midrange, I might suggest you try bypassing the 2 caps in series with Mundorf caps about 1-3% of the value. So if you have a 100uF cap, use about 1uF to 2uF as a bypass cap. This will save you a lot of money. 🙂
Also, consider replacing series resistors R1/R2 with Mills of equal or greater wattage.
Best,
E
I'm rethinking this. Honestly the midrange caps are really pretty important, but they are also pretty large. If you can afford to go 100% film I'd encourage it, but they really are pricey. Maybe a combination of Axon (SCR cheap brand) with Mundorf MKP?
Best,
E
Best,
E
Also, AudioHobby.EU is a good source.
I have no experience, but Jensen and Audyn are good caps to look at as well.
I have no experience, but Jensen and Audyn are good caps to look at as well.
Some capacitors are Bi-Polar,do I have to use same or can I use other types?What you thinking about TEFLON-HYBRID capacitors?
I tried the Cardas hybrids (I thinkthey were teflon) and htey were meh.
Film caps are ALL bi-polar. Electrolytics however are either polar or non-polar. You must use bipolar in a speaker crossover.
Best,
E
Film caps are ALL bi-polar. Electrolytics however are either polar or non-polar. You must use bipolar in a speaker crossover.
Best,
E
By the way, my current "darlings" for bypass caps are the copper foils from Audyn, but they are pretty pricey.
Best,
E
Best,
E
Hello Vortex666,
I also have Dali Opticon 8 and I'm thinking about improving the crossovers, did you finally upgrade your Opticon8 crossovers? Big improvement?
Thank you
Faboz
I also have Dali Opticon 8 and I'm thinking about improving the crossovers, did you finally upgrade your Opticon8 crossovers? Big improvement?
Thank you
Faboz
