3D printing 1/2 of a waveguide

The only gain is probably that the horn is bigger so directivity should be able to be extended a little lower in frequency. Vertical pattern should be better, but that is still TBD, it also might not be. The new horn is able to use (and seems to like using) the DNA360 driver, so the the whole speaker should be able to tolerate significantly more power (only relevent for damaging ears, IMO... the SmallSyns play plenty loud for me).
 
The new horn is able to use (and seems to like using) the DNA360 driver, so the the whole speaker should be able to tolerate significantly more power (only relevent for damaging ears, IMO... the SmallSyns play plenty loud for me).

This is a very cool project Bill. It's a lot of fun watching your progress on this.
On a side note (though tangentially related to the above), I found this Tom Danley post regarding speaker efficiency and amplifier wattage on some other forum and was curious as to your thoughts about it.

For me this happened when I had a chance to be in an official ABX listening test of a number of amplifiers. I brought in my trusty Threshold stasis as my known reference and used speakers I had designed at work and had at home as well.

There was plenty of time and I went through a number of my reference CD’s to find a few passages that brought out the differences best and then went to “without knowledge” listening. At this point one could still hear some differences between them but they generally fell into two groups which I could reliably hear. What I heard were differences in the decay part of the sound which I have no explanation for (I used to build amplifiers too).

A funny and unexpected thing also happened which is why I am writing, in comparing the various pro-amps to my Threshold, I found that one group and it were indistinguishable except the Threshold began to sound “less dynamic” as I increased the level. AS the Thresholds VU led scale showed the peaks were -20dB or so down, I was puzzled. Connecting an oscilloscope to the output revealed the truth.

At a point WAY below one could hear it as a “flaw”, at a point that indicator showed peaks as 1/100th rated power, there was instantaneous voltage clipping.
To be very clear, this WAS NOT audible at all as a flaw or heaven forbid the familiar “clipping” the only clue was that compared to a much larger amplifier, the Threshold was somehow less dynamic above a modest level.

At that point, I switched to a larger pro-sound amplifier at home too. Currently my upper speakers (SH-50’s) are about 100dB 1w1m and I use an 800W/ch power amp on these above 80Hz.
With any commercial recording or movie soundtrack, this is more than enough headroom to never breathe hard but I can still reach instantaneous limiting with the fireworks recording.

Anyway, the big and unrealized advantage of having more power is that the short voltage clipping events reduce the dynamics long before it’s audible as a flaw. This can be seen (when present) by using an oscilloscope to examine the Voltage waveform going to the loudspeaker.

To be clear, just as a subwoofers job is to extend the response and that is not the same as “turning up the bass”, this IS NOT the same as “cranking it up” although a larger amplifier lets you do that too if your speakers are up to it.. This is about reproducing the peaks (in the “good” recordings) which are often clipped off much more often than people realize.

Want to see different ways of looking at the dynamics or loudness of the same signal, try this on your favorite recordings.

http://orban.com/meter/

So far as making a “full push” hifi amp, why not.
Remember Pro sound amps take advantage of the fact that the peaks are at least 6-10dB over the average power, circuit breakers are intended to allow surges and have a time constant so having an amp that puts out several thousand watts from a 15 Amp outlet is not unreasonable..
Best,
Tom Danley
Danley Sound Labs

Makes me consider if I'm wasting my time with high efficiency speakers and 30wpc tube amps!
 
I dunno, that might've been a characteristic of that particular Threshold amp. I used to do signal subtraction tests (record the input and output of an amp, and scale, shift and subtract them with a program I wrote called "Diffmaker", and playing musical tracks. With better amps (best were a modified Hafler amp and an Icepower module), the null was basically down to the background noise. If any of this small peak limiting were happening, it would've certainly shown up.

I also play with amp design (look for my Second Spring amp article in the Solid State section here, for instance) and have put clip detection circuits in some of them. The detectors can see even 10 microsecond peaks being clipped. It's surprising how loud typical recordings can be played without triggering the clip detector (probably thanks to peak limiting already done before the music is released -- I'm sure Tom's fireworks recording would clip it out at low average volume levels, though!)
 
I dunno, that might've been a characteristic of that particular Threshold amp. I used to do signal subtraction tests (record the input and output of an amp, and scale, shift and subtract them with a program I wrote called "Diffmaker", and playing musical tracks. With better amps (best were a modified Hafler amp and an Icepower module), the null was basically down to the background noise. If any of this small peak limiting were happening, it would've certainly shown up.

Taking nothing from Tom's contribution, but it does smell like a very aggressive soft clipping/SOA protection circuit was playing part. In either case, seems he found a workable solution.

There are a lot of factors that influence how much power you need, but 30w with 95+ db/1m speakers in a reasonably sized will get loud, even 4m away from your speakers and still give you plenty of room. Tom might be one of those guys who really likes to crank it, whereas someone like me listens nearfield and barely needs a watt.

Apropos the title of the thread -- Bill, have you thought about making each print slightly over half the part (talking 3-4 mm) and then lapping (hairspray sandpaper onto a glass plate) the halves back to exactly half? This way you have some overprovisioning to manage the printing deformation and the lapping ensures you have a perfect mating surface. Great work as usual.
 
The latest prints don't have any deformation -- adding the rafts (an extra wide but thin flat surface on the first few layers) then clipping them off has fixed the issue quite well, so no need for those steps.
 

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The only gain is probably that the horn is bigger so directivity should be able to be extended a little lower in frequency. Vertical pattern should be better, but that is still TBD, it also might not be. The new horn is able to use (and seems to like using) the DNA360 driver, so the the whole speaker should be able to tolerate significantly more power (only relevent for damaging ears, IMO... the SmallSyns play plenty loud for me).
Bill, I know you chose the dna 360 over the Tymphany due to the better low end gain on this waveguide. But what about subjective sound quality? The Tymphany has a very refined and transparent high that puts it close to the best hifi domes. I have not heard the dna 360, but I have the fusion 8 which uses the dna 205, which is supposed to be more refined than the dna360.

I used to think the F8 dna205 highs sound good, but after using the Tymphany, it sounds grainy and harsh in comparison.

I'm using the Tymphany and PRV waveguide in a 2 way Ewave on your strong endorsement of it. Hehe. Appreciate your thoughts.

Sent from my X9009 using Tapatalk
 
It goes without saying that Bill and Tom's speakers CRUSH 95% of the speakers that I've heard at "high fi" shows.

That's not hard to do, but still, if you want to do a complex horn like this the 3D printer option certainly looks attractive. Kudos to Bill.

I once tried to do a 3D drawing of a complex device (the first step in any complex prototyping operation) and found that the learning curve was pretty steep. Good solids modeling software isn't cheap either so this is still a very serious DIY venture. Once you have the drawing file, getting the 3D printing done is pretty easy online.
 
I once tried to do a 3D drawing of a complex device (the first step in any complex prototyping operation) and found that the learning curve was pretty steep. Good solids modeling software isn't cheap either so this is still a very serious DIY venture.

Hi Earl,

Yeah, the learning curve beyond simple boxes and cylinders and the like takes a fair bit of effort, but the bigger problem is some of the quirks of using software like this. I spent over a day finally getting the program to agree that a point of a spline curve that was exactly at the same coordinates as a point on a circle actually contacted each other! Also, as the model gets more complicated, some weird things can happen and it's easy to get into a pattern of what is basically trial-and-error to try to make the weirdness go away. The last big problem I had finally got 'fixed' by my exporting the file, closing the program, rebooting the computer, restarting the program and re-importing the program --- big ugly blob on the model disappeared finally :confused:

I'm sure it gets better as you learn what kind of things to avoid, though, a lot of companies are using the program (Autodesk Fusion 360).

As far as cost of powerful programs, things have changed in recent years. Software like Solidworks is still out of my league by a large margin, but Fusion360 (link) is free for any hobbyist or even for any business making less than $100k per year. That's what I did this model in. My "training" on it has consisted entirely of watching You-tube video tutorials (which probably explains some of why I kept getting stuck on silly-seeming things).

There is also a user support group at the Autodesk website for Fusion 360, and I was able to get help and even some fixes in a matter of hours in some cases.
 
Bill, I know you chose the dna 360 over the Tymphany due to the better low end gain on this waveguide. But what about subjective sound quality? The Tymphany has a very refined and transparent high that puts it close to the best hifi domes. I have not heard the dna 360, but I have the fusion 8 which uses the dna 205, which is supposed to be more refined than the dna360.

rhapsodee,

I'm mostly going with the dna360 because it's response was smoother on the horn (even though the horn was designed originally for the Typhany driver), and the midrange porting on this horn still worked with the DNA360. It's actually the first time I've gotten good unity horn operation with the DNA360 (it's length from throat-to-diaphragm is longer than the Tymphany or the CDX1-1445, which can complicate things with a Unity horn).

As far as sound, I've worked with the DNA360 (a quasi-clone of the B&C DE250) and have liked how it sounded, its long inside length was my only real problem with it. I believe the DNA205 (a quasi-clone of B&C DE10) is actually a less capable driver than the DNA360. I had tried DE10 on a unity horn a few years ago, couldn't get it to work out (haven't tried it on this horn, though).

For a while Erich had another driver he called "FL-450", which used a neo magnet and had very smooth response at least on the SEOS horns. But I think he is phasing the FL-450 out, "too expensive". I couldn't talk him into letting me try it on these horns (but I may still try).
 
Random observations:

I've tried Sketchup, Fusion, Blender, Rhino and 123D. My favs are :

5) Fusion
4) Blender
3) Sketchup
2) Rhino
1) 123D

About my only real gripe with 123D is that it crashes quite a bit, and I haven't found any easy way to make threads. The interface of Fusion was maddening to me, even moreso than Blender (which is famously non-intuitive.) But get it while you can - 123D has been discontinued.

If you want to simplify or fix your models, check out Meshlab:

Polygon Reduction with Meshlab - Shapeways


Microsoft used to have an awesome tool for doing this, but they removed support for 'open' file formats :(
 
Sorry if this is common knowledge but TLDR whole SmallSyns thread.

How loud can they play?

I don't know how to answer this kind of question --- what would an answer look like? Eleven? :p

For what it's worth, it uses two 6 inch woofers which have xmax of 5.25mm, so from that you could determine how far they can move linearly at some frequency. Each is rated at "200W" though it will be smashing into the magnet at low bass frequencies with that much sinewave power.

The tweeter is rated at 30W and 107dBSPL/1W (somewhere around 2kHz, less at higher frequency), so that would be about 120dB SPL 3 feet away. Though that still doesn't say how loud they'd play and still sound good.
 
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