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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

3D printing 1/2 of a waveguide
3D printing 1/2 of a waveguide
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Old 5th May 2017, 03:59 AM   #11
Pallas is offline Pallas  Pakistan
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Old 5th May 2017, 04:19 AM   #12
bwaslo is offline bwaslo  United States
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According to some people on the 3D print forums, CYA glue works well on PLA. I haven't tried yet. If all else fails, I might take a 3D printing 'pen' and try to use that to weld the halves together (or a hot-melt glue gun, about the same thing). For a while, I may leave them separate and just clamp them together for testing until I get the midrange apertures and volume adjusted well.
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Old 5th May 2017, 06:25 AM   #13
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I've glued PLA together with CYA (super glue) and it was stronger than the material itself (ie the part would break before the glue let go). The problem is it bonds instantly so you have to get the alignment exactly right when you bring the two pieces together.
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Old 5th May 2017, 03:31 PM   #14
Patrick Bateman is offline Patrick Bateman  United States
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Click the image to open in full size.
These are glued together with five minute epoxy from home depot. Gets the job done.

Due to curling, the gap between parts can be large, so you want something thick. I also try to put the seam somewhere where it won't be a problem.
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Old 5th May 2017, 03:40 PM   #15
gkh is offline gkh  Austria
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Amazing!
Makes me think again about waveguides for the TC9FDs...
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Old 5th May 2017, 03:58 PM   #16
wesayso is offline wesayso  Netherlands
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gkh View Post
Amazing!
Makes me think again about waveguides for the TC9FDs...
That would be easy enough, that is, if you can determine what it is you want .

I'd advise using a good program for the modelling. Something like Autodesk Fusion might do the trick. Inventor or Solid Works would work very well but are too pricey for us mere mortals.

Warping should be reasonably controllable with good temperature control/heat management, cooling down the printed stream etc. I'm continuously playing with 3D printers as part of the class I teach/coach. This includes 3D modelling and 3D printing.
If I can help anyone, just ask...

This first half of a waveguide Bill printed looks like it get's the job done with the glue-seam resting on the bed itself.
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Last edited by wesayso; 5th May 2017 at 04:12 PM.
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Old 5th May 2017, 04:37 PM   #17
gkh is offline gkh  Austria
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What I'm thinking about is doing a waveguide for 5 TC9's - you know for which project...
Might even rethink this into a synergy line array.

Your input would be highly appreciated!
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Old 5th May 2017, 06:25 PM   #18
bwaslo is offline bwaslo  United States
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Originally Posted by wesayso View Post
This first half of a waveguide Bill printed looks like it get's the job done with the glue-seam resting on the bed itself.
Actually, it isn't. The mouth end has about a 2mm gap between it and the bed due to warping. It also does an 'elephant foot' kind of thing there where the lip around the horn squishes out slightly. I printed the other half of this last night, and here is what they look like held together (both halves are the same file).
Click the image to open in full size.

Any suggestions? Turn down the bed heat (I ran it at 50C all layers)? I already have a strong fan on the nozzle cooling down the layers when placed. I could just use a sander and get the two parts to join better (being careful to not sand at the throat area. I could probably divide the model at a slight angle on the 'cutting plane' (this is in Fusion3 360) to compensate and make them fit a little better, but the on-bed edge would still need work to make it flat.

edit: forgot -- I did the dividing in Meshmixer
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Last edited by bwaslo; 5th May 2017 at 06:31 PM.
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Old 5th May 2017, 06:40 PM   #19
bwaslo is offline bwaslo  United States
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I think I'll add a block of plastic, with a screw hole, on the seam near the horn mouth. That will serve as a raft during printing and give me something to hold the halves together down at that end during testing and gluing. I can hold the throat end together with a cable tie. Kind of a shame, though, I was planning on mounting crossover components on the horn wall where thate block would go (make it an integrated assembly).
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Old 5th May 2017, 06:45 PM   #20
bwaslo is offline bwaslo  United States
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Originally Posted by Patrick Bateman View Post
Click the image to open in full size.
These are glued together with five minute epoxy from home depot. Gets the job done.

Due to curling, the gap between parts can be large, so you want something thick. I also try to put the seam somewhere where it won't be a problem.
What material are you printing with, John? Is that PLA? (looks a little like PET-G). The epoxy would be nice to give me some working time, particularly since the parts rock a bit on the table.
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