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#1 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Atlanta, GA
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Hey I am having trouble cutting perfectly straight lines with my circular saw, the pieces deviate 2-3mm is some places (pieces that are supposed to be equal, I am not able to afford a table saw
![]() Do you have any tips that will help me cut a straighter line? |
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#2 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Phoenix AZ
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You can use a long piece of metal or straight piece of wood as a guide, or you can buy one like this http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...rings_id=10548
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#3 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Chicago area
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Clamp a straight edge to the material. The distance from the straight edge to the cut should be the distance from the edge of the saw plate to the blade. Be sure to clamp on both ends of the straight edge.
Later BZ
__________________
What ever makes the tunes flow |
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#4 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Near Seattle
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This isn't too hard to do. I've had a cheap table saw before and it's not fun. Basically what you need to do is make a fench for your saw. Go get a 1x4" piece of wood. Any scrap that has a true edge on it will do. I don't recommend 2x4's because they aren't as square.
Mark on your work piece where you want to cut. For this example, lets say you want to cut a 6" strip off of a the short side of a 4x8. So make a mark at 6" on either end and draw a line like you would normally do. Now, hold your blade against the work piece like you were going to cut, if you have a guide on it, it's helpful to align this to your cut line. Place the 1x4 against the base of the saw and in parallel with your cut line. Measure the offset from the cut line to the 1x4 and adjust it on the far end so that it has the same offset. Basically you're trying to make it parallel to your cut line. Clamp it and use it as your fence for cutting. You can get some very accurate cuts like this. I do it al the time. |
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#5 |
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diyAudio Member
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#6 |
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diyAudio Member
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I would use a metal straight edge instead of a piece of wood that may not be exactly straight (and not to mention wood changes in response to humidity, temperature, etc.).
__________________
KTK. Kool To the Kore. |
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#7 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: Seattle, WA
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I've used the 50" Clamp-n-Guide successfully and I see it's on sale at Rockler right now.
http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product...d=330&catid=69 |
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#8 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Calgary
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I second the recommendation on the 'famous' sawboard. In addition, if you have the time I would recommend building a panel cutting table as recommended here:
http://www.thewoodshop.20m.com/panel_cutting_table.htm After building this and a couple of sawboard type guides I can confidently say I will not be using my tablesaw for cutting large panels ever again. /Dave |
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#9 |
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diyAudio Member
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: Seattle
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Saw Board all the way. I use them everyday on the job site for cutting everything from in place ship-lap that needs to have a straight plumb line for new embedded sheer panels to butt next to, to cutting large panels to large to run through the table saw.
A saw board is more accurate than a table saw with huge panels even with proper outfeed legs and a large deck. You are moving the saw and not the material passed a saw blade. You can make one in about 5 minutes - just follow the saw board page and the cost is almost zero. Of course the use of a table saw helps to rip a nice clean cut but you can get by with buying a straight material. I prefer 3/4" ACX plywood for mine. But Luan and other products come thinner and may come in natural 6" rips. Double tempered brown board is nice and stable. I use it for templates for routers. And of course if you want the best of the best you can buy a Festo saw and rail system. Anyone who knows high end tools will recognise Festool - but you definately will not want to spend the money for that. Just a reference to how useful and accurate a saw guide is. |
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