going from a 15" woof to an 18" doesn't meant that the cabinet should be consequently bigger. most 18-inchers work well in about 200l BR cabinets that 15" drivers commonly need. after all if you insist to use 15" woofer I would suggest to consider Faital Pro 15FH520 or 15PR400. both are very good for the money. BD15 woofer (a custom made by Beyma) is also very good
Like wg-ski said earlier, the problem with the LFA is the Xmax. I believe that is correct, as excursion is exceeded easily in simulation.
I'd like to be above 95db 1W.
@ Dave123 - you misunderstand - I'm not 'stuck' on a 15. In fact i like the way some 18s simulate, especially looking at excursion. Never considered an 18 until suggested here. I just can't (won't) spend the cash on the products you suggest - I do appreciate the input though. (I will take a good look at the 18FH500)
Geez - the Peavey Low rider 18 does look pretty good. I didn't think I'd be looking at a Peavey, I just passed by them before.
Thanks all
I'd like to be above 95db 1W.
@ Dave123 - you misunderstand - I'm not 'stuck' on a 15. In fact i like the way some 18s simulate, especially looking at excursion. Never considered an 18 until suggested here. I just can't (won't) spend the cash on the products you suggest - I do appreciate the input though. (I will take a good look at the 18FH500)
Geez - the Peavey Low rider 18 does look pretty good. I didn't think I'd be looking at a Peavey, I just passed by them before.
Thanks all
A modern 15 that i found that performs well is the celestion tf1530
They are smoother than the kappa 15 and offer decent midbass. they are not to expensive. I prefer them over the altec 416 and JBL 2226 for hifi use. sleepers
http://celestion.com/product/132/tf1530e/
They are smoother than the kappa 15 and offer decent midbass. they are not to expensive. I prefer them over the altec 416 and JBL 2226 for hifi use. sleepers
http://celestion.com/product/132/tf1530e/
Last edited:
Thanks!
You linked to the 'e' model. Not sure if that's the one you meant.T-S parameters aren't complete and can't find a US vendor that carries it. Did you mean the non 'e'?
I have two in 10.5 cubic foot cabinets tuned to around 45 Hz. Presently part of my midbass coupler system. They worked great in those cabinets with a midrange horn above and the lower woofer low passed around 300 Hz. Everybody that heard them felt they were the best direct radiators they heard in my room. You will need subwoofers if you want to go below around 50 Hz.
Thx I have been thinking about a two-way with the 1530 used like this 8008-CORNER and a suitable horn and compression driver.
Great Plains Audio makes a 416-8C woofer that's 16 inches and is around 97-100 DB efficient depending on what cabinet you use it in...its a very light cone and can put out some very clean open sound. it can play up into the midrange very clean...
IF you want horn loaded you can not go wrong with Great Plains Audio Parts..
416-8C 902-8A horn driver.... They even sell the crossover for it.......
last night... I was looking through you tube and played recorded gun shots...
not a good idea with a 100DB horn loaded speaker... I think it shook the neighbors house !
IF you want horn loaded you can not go wrong with Great Plains Audio Parts..
416-8C 902-8A horn driver.... They even sell the crossover for it.......
last night... I was looking through you tube and played recorded gun shots...
not a good idea with a 100DB horn loaded speaker... I think it shook the neighbors house !
FWIW, I'd consider going for a large-format compression driver and consider adding a supertweeter. Crossover at 600Hz or so.
EV DH1a drivers are fairly cheap in the USA, very heavy, and give a lot of output with very little power. They get ragged and roll off above 10kHz or so, but most people don't mind that so much.
WRT to the bass driver, take your pick. If you're crossing in the 100s of Hz, sensitivity is going to be determined with T/S parameters, ie, not accounting for a large cone breakup peak at 2kHz.
Chris
EV DH1a drivers are fairly cheap in the USA, very heavy, and give a lot of output with very little power. They get ragged and roll off above 10kHz or so, but most people don't mind that so much.
WRT to the bass driver, take your pick. If you're crossing in the 100s of Hz, sensitivity is going to be determined with T/S parameters, ie, not accounting for a large cone breakup peak at 2kHz.
Chris
There's a few domestic sellers on ebay selling them. I've no experience with the seller I'm linking, just one that I found.
Celestion TF1530 15" Professional Speaker 8 ohms 800W 99 dB 3" Coil
I do like this arrangement, my only worry would be the size that the midrange horn would have to be to dig to 500 or so, but I guess I haven't really looked into it.
Parts express has the 1530 as well, my reference to the scarcity in the states was to the 1530E, which was what POOH accidentally linked to.
Does anyone worry about the 2mm Xmax spec on the 1530?
Depends how much pattern control you want at 500Hz. A 15" driver might only just be starting to narrow its dispersion there, so you could get away with a fairly small horn, so long as it's providing some acoustic loading.
Chris
It'll be about 16~20" wide, if you want 500 Hz. This is at the lower end for a large-format compression driver; you might consider 650~800 Hz if you're confident of the upper-end performance of the 15" driver. The Altecs (and GPA's) are quite good up to 1 kHz, and even above that, there's just a broad, low-Q peak of a few dB around 1.5 kHz (most 15" drivers have a similar peak in the 1~1.5 kHz region).
I'm more comfortable EQ-ing and rolling off a LF driver than trying to "push" a HF driver to get a few more Hz at the low end of its range. This is where you're running out of excursion, or in the case of a horn, approaching the no-go cutoff region (where the horn effectively disappears).
Aluminum and titanium diaphragm compression drivers don't tolerate operating at frequencies that are too low; they get harsh-sounding very quickly. I think that's a big part of the reason Paul Klipsch favored phenolic-diaphragm drivers (aside from cost); they can be "pushed" into too-low operation, and into the threshold of MF horn cutoff, without paying too much of a sonic price. Try the same thing with aluminum or titanium and you'll hear some really shrill and edgy sounds.
Last edited:
- Status
- This old topic is closed. If you want to reopen this topic, contact a moderator using the "Report Post" button.