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Old 26th February 2017, 01:47 PM   #1
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Default Monitor RS6 - mods for a beginner

I have decided to take the plunge and make some modifications to my nine year-old Monitor RS6 speakers to tame the harshness. I am an absolute beginner but looking forward to the adventure! I will post pictures as I make the modifications.

I have removed the drivers, and attached is a picture of my crossover.

According to another post, the crossover has the following:
Tweeter: resistor =2.2, cap=6, coil = .25 in parallel
Mid: coil= .8 in series, cap= 4, coil =.25 in parallel
Woofer: coil =5.0 in series

I would love to hear from other owners who can recommend mods to tame the mid/high stridency. Are the mods made on the crossover circuit board or close to the drivers?

Thanks in advance!
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File Type: jpg IMG_1956.jpg (795.2 KB, 221 views)
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Old 26th February 2017, 04:50 PM   #2
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I would do this in stages. First, replace the tweeter cap with Mundorf MKP. The MKP series in particular is great at low level detail, but dark in tone.

If that is still too strident, replace resistor with 3 Ohm (or larger) Mills 12 Watt.

Best,


E
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Old 26th February 2017, 05:19 PM   #3
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measurements here: Monitor Audio Silver RS6 loudspeaker Measurements | Stereophile.com
two problems - the hump between 1-3 Khz, & the rising tweeter response
spending money unnecessarily on boutique caps will fix neither
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Impedance varies with frequency, use impedance plots of your drivers and make crossover calculations using the actual impedance of the driver at the crossover frequency

Last edited by PeteMcK; 26th February 2017 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 26th February 2017, 05:30 PM   #4
TBTL is offline TBTL  Germany
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First start with investigating what is the problem. Take an equalizer and try to find the offending frequency range. Once you know what range sounds harsh, modify the crossover to make these frequencies less loud. You can do that by adjusting the values (ohms, millihenries, microfarads) of the crossover components. To get a better feeling what you should adjust, use Boxsim to model your crossover. For the drivers, pick similar Visaton drivers as they are already in the software. Then adjust component values (of the crossover) and see how the response changes. For example, harshness could be because there is too much power in the 5 kHz region (other reasons are also possible). Then you could try to adjust the components such that the 5 kHz region in your Boxsim simulation becomes a few dB lower.

Once you are satisfied, you could replace components by more expensive ones if you like. Opinions differ whether and to what degree this makes a difference.
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Old 26th February 2017, 05:32 PM   #5
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I'd rewire everything by making all the paths anew; just substitute the rear panel with 6 binding posts - Or - there are 5-way binding posts for changing to some attenuation on the tweeter
However, nevermind
So make the 3 (+3) speakers terminals available on the rear, and experiment ( just changing from internal to external ).
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Old 26th February 2017, 05:34 PM   #6
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Erik this speaker has issues beyond the ability of a capacitor quality change to fix it.

Monitor Audio S6 tweek

A 2.5 way with metal drivers. And an overly simplistic filter along these lines:

Click the image to open in full size.

You really have to trace the circuit to know what is going on. Many versions of this speaker. It's not impossible that Monitor Audio have added a 6uF/0.2mH 4kHz notch shunt to the mid for instance. But I don't know. Looks like the above circuit, more or less.

It's a long and winding road to get rid of a harsh sound, but crossover improvements are key.

Here's where I am currently on my old MA R300-MD speakers.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

The original, harsh sounding MA300-MD filter is below. Along with a typical 6" SEAS metal bass driver's rather alarming harsh cone breakup, which is more apposite to this thread.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Monitor_Audio_Crosover_Typical.JPG (33.1 KB, 23 views)
File Type: png Monitor Audio R300-MD Original.PNG (5.8 KB, 30 views)
File Type: png SEAS L18RCY-P 6 inch metal driver.PNG (73.9 KB, 26 views)
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Last edited by system7; 26th February 2017 at 05:44 PM.
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Old 26th February 2017, 06:09 PM   #7
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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I could add something. Back in the day, tone controls on amps really DID something.

I'm currently enjoying an ancient 30wpc Pioneer SX-450 receiver. You can totally control bass level with the tone control. And 2.5 ways have seriously loud bass, just how they work.

But the midrange issues need more crossover work here. As does the sound of a metal tweeter at the very top end. I can't recommend a Zobel (here 5W 7.5R and 0.68uF) on a metal tweeter enough. It works at many levels. Slight rolloff for one thing. But mainly an easy resistive 8 ohm load to the amp. An easy first mod.

Click the image to open in full size.

The midrange issues might be your next area to tackle. It's the hobby. How far do you want to go?
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File Type: jpg Pioneer SX-450.JPG (38.0 KB, 25 views)
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Old 26th February 2017, 06:53 PM   #8
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And as for how much can you fix with a good cap, quite a bit methinks. Depends on what exactly the end user is perceiving. It's worth a try, depends on what the user is perceiving. My mods were cheap (<$20/speaker) and required little analysis. The same advice I've often given, with positive results.

Based on the measurements of course, I'd design a different crossover entirely. Maybe a little tricky as the tweeter needs to be measured off-axis to really assess the effect of that resonance, however I thought the cheap simple answer was the nicest way to start the OP off.

Best,

E
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Old 26th February 2017, 06:58 PM   #9
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Scratch that, I'd replace the tweeter entirely as well as give it a new crossover!

Best,

E
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Old 26th February 2017, 09:44 PM   #10
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Default Thanks for the ideas

Thank you for your suggestions. Based on the commentary, I'm wondering if I should simply sell them and move on. Is this a case of polishing the turd?
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