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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

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Old 3rd March 2017, 11:17 AM   #31
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Many thanks for the simulations - good to know they're both compatible. I've just purchased some Clarity Caps, Mundorf Resistors and Vishay MKP1837s, but will return them as having researched more I suspect it's just snake oil. Instead I'll go with the tweeter upgrade. The SB26 are about 25ea and the ET448 are 94 - huge difference!

Looks like mechanically the SB26 will fit almost perfectly, and maybe even fit the original screw holes. The ET448 will also fit, but will need 4 x new holes per speaker and 2 additional screws.

Money no object - are the Morels worth it? Ideally you'd audition both, but I don't have that luxury!
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Old 4th March 2017, 03:04 AM   #32
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Dissi's simulation, and TBH, I don't know how he did it except he designs these things, is extremely useful:

Click the image to open in full size.

Click the image to open in full size.

Roughly based on the above crossover and the SB26STCN-C000-4 :: SB Acoustics, though MA seem to be using a 6.5mH bass coil and 0.2mH elsewhere in your (meeko's) latest schematics. And a bit of fiddling with tweeter level.

What I noticed about Dissi's sim, is the bass is actually contributing more breakup hash than the mid.

Which says to me a tank notch on the bass is a very good and cheap idea.

Click the image to open in full size.

I'd suspect that one soft-dome tweeter is much like another, and SB make particularly good ones at low prices. I was looking at Dissi's sim and thinking the notch was too low at 5kHz. 6kHz would be better. So 4uF and 0.2mH shunt on the mid, it is. The bass tank would be a cheapish CR. On 6.5mH, it must be about 0.12uF and 47R, keeping the LC product constant.

A 5W resistor and a little 0.12uF polypropylene (MKP) or mylar (MKT) is cheap entertainment. I agree with you about snake oil. Only real quality difference in components I can justify on scientific and measurable grounds is better air coils replacing ferrites.
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Old 13th March 2017, 10:26 AM   #33
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Hi all,

So I opted for the Morels and have been auditioning them all weekend. While I couldn't perform an A/B test, after listening to the RS8s for 10 years, there is a significant difference. With the original C-CAM tweeters the speakers tended towards bright and were tiring during long listening sessions - tending towards being a little harsh. This has completely disappeared. The sound is more airier, with small details easier to distinguish, and even at high listening levels the top end is smooth. Whether or not this is because the SPL will be different, perhaps a little higher than before I can't tell. I'm very happy with the upgrade and can now take comfort that I won't destroy these tweeters as easiliy as the last.

Thanks all for your help!
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Old 18th March 2017, 07:39 PM   #34
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Hi all,

I've attached a picture showing in-room measurements using my Anthem MRX720 ARC 1M Calibration software. It uses a calibrated microphone and is useful for seeing the difference in response with the Morel ET-448.

As you can see the peaks at 2k and 5k are smoothed a little and the Morel is definitely louder between around 10k-16k but not so sensitive beyond that.

I've listened to these for many hours now and the difference in clarity and enjoyment especially in acoustic tracks is night and day.

Thanks,

Steve
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File Type: jpg RS8-upgrade.jpg (205.9 KB, 43 views)
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Old 19th March 2017, 02:59 AM   #35
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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Always good to get some feedback, Steve.

I notice the 2dB hole is still there from 2-5kHz.

This is another variant:
Click the image to open in full size.

I see no need to change the 6uF if that is what you have, but I found a 10uF after the 0.25mH (or 0.2mH) almost exactly filled the tweeter hole. Worth trying, IMO.
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Old 19th March 2017, 06:10 PM   #36
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Thanks for the tip - the whole in the RSLCR is even bigger, so I presume 10ufF would be sufficient there too?

Any recommendations on capacitor to use? MLP 5% OK?

Is there an easy place to add it onto the crossover PCB? I wonder if it's acceptable to solder it directly between the PCB and the tweeter +ve wire as space is quite tight.
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Old 20th March 2017, 03:25 PM   #37
system7 is offline system7  United Kingdom
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I wouldn't spend a lot of money on the 10uF capacitor for sure. A 250V MKP would do fine, I'm sure. Or lash one up with a couple of smaller caps. The value isn't critical. 8-12uF would do. It's an experiment.
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