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Multi-Way Conventional loudspeakers with crossovers

2/3 Way - 'Reference' build
2/3 Way - 'Reference' build
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Old 26th January 2017, 01:55 AM   #1
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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2/3 Way - 'Reference' build
Default 2/3 Way - 'Reference' build

After following X's success in these threads:

FF85WK and RS225-8 Passive FAST

10F/8424 & RS225-8 FAST Ref Monitor


I decided I would like to try this combo as a starting point for what I hope will be come a nice pair of 'reference' speakers. I've been building more amps, pre-amps etc. lately and find myself wanting a consistent 'known state' platform to test them on.

Also, a good excuse to buy more drivers and make more sawdust.

To that end, I got an hour or so after work today to get most of the pieces cut for a first prototype box for the RS225.

Internal dimensions are: 10" wide X 12" tall X 14" deep. This creates a 0.972cu/ft (27.52 liters) enclosure. Not counting driver frame, and the 2 'window pane' braces.

General outline:
~25liter sealed enclosure for the RS-225
~1.2liter sealed 'dagger tl' (Thank you X for that awesome name!) for the, well, other driver.

The other driver being an FF85WK, TC9FD, or 10F/8424. Depending on measurements, and what sounds best to my ears.

I am hoping to reduce box resonance and thus hd(as I understand it, at least) with the thick material, window pane braces, etc. Details below about construction plans.

Ultimately, this would use a passive crossover to make testing amps that much easier. I have a miniDSP 4x10, and at least one 2x4 available for testing/development until the final design is done.

I'm also open to adding a tweeter, should the measurements or my ears demand it. I have a spare pair of B&G Neo3's on hand, and I do quite like them, but I would be open to just about anything that's not too expensive.

General construction paramters:
1"(25mm) Baltic Birch for all enclosures
~3/4"(18mm) Baltic Birch for the window pane braces
~1 1/2" - ~ 2" MDF/BB for the Baffle on the RS225's enclosure.
Flush mount all drivers
'Faceted' baffle for the RS225, inspiration from, among others, Troels Gravesen's 'Ellam Flex' baffle:




I'll attach a few pics of the prototype bits I made tonight. The chamfers/round-overs aren't done yet on the braces, baffle, etc. I'm using ~3/4" MDF for the enclosure and braces, and ~1.5" MDF(2 3/4" pieces laminated) for the baffle.

My plan for next steps are as follows:
1- glue up test enclosure.
2 - glue 1/2" natural wool felt to some of the interior panels
3 - Add some polyfill stuffing, after weighing it.
4 - Measure
5 - Adjust stuffing, etc.
rinse and repeat

Hope to have some measurements soon. I'm fairly green to measurement protocols, but I think I have a good idea what needs to be done. I have a UMIK-1 and assorted bits to do the measuring.

Any and all insights, criticisms, analysis and feed back are very welcomed!

Thanks!
Gable

Last edited by pcgab; 26th January 2017 at 11:42 AM. Reason: remove hotlink
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Old 26th January 2017, 01:57 AM   #2
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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2/3 Way - 'Reference' build
Adding the pictures I forgot to attach in the initial post.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3497.jpg (419.3 KB, 1302 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3498.jpg (454.4 KB, 1269 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3499.jpg (486.7 KB, 1233 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3500.jpg (476.6 KB, 1202 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3501.jpg (562.1 KB, 1169 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3502.jpg (479.9 KB, 228 views)
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Old 26th January 2017, 07:12 AM   #3
Old'n'Cranky is offline Old'n'Cranky  Australia
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Not sure Troels would like you 'stealing' his bandwidth by hotlinking from his site.
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Old 26th January 2017, 11:43 AM   #4
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old'n'Cranky View Post
Not sure Troels would like you 'stealing' his bandwidth by hotlinking from his site.
Good point, removed the link.
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Old 26th January 2017, 09:51 PM   #5
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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2/3 Way - 'Reference' build
Knocked out the round-overs on the braces and started glue up today. Hopefully a bit more progress tonight.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3508.jpg (396.0 KB, 217 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3509.jpg (439.4 KB, 219 views)

Last edited by pcgab; 26th January 2017 at 09:57 PM. Reason: correct photo orientation
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Old 26th January 2017, 10:33 PM   #6
jrh0516 is offline jrh0516  United States
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I'd consider opening up the MDF on the back side of the RS225 baffle. You can tighten up the RS225 cut out with peal and stick black craft felt. I used my wife's rotary cutter to cut thin strips of the craft felt. It worked great.

My wife was not happy about the sticky residue on the rotary cutter, but now I have my own
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Old 26th January 2017, 10:46 PM   #7
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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I'm planning on adding an aggressive chamfer on the back of the baffle tonight. Last night I only had time to make the cut outs.
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Old 27th January 2017, 01:23 AM   #8
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Chamfered the back of the baffle, and glued the sides on tonight. Cut the rear panel down, will glue it on tomorrow when I glue the baffle on.

Hopefully will start laminating the baltic birch this weekend as well. So I can start on the enclosure for the ff85wks/tc9fd/10f testing.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_3510.jpg (341.3 KB, 208 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_3511.jpg (466.9 KB, 177 views)

Last edited by pcgab; 27th January 2017 at 01:25 AM.
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Old 27th January 2017, 06:34 PM   #9
badman is offline badman  United States
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I like to chamfer or round holes in braces too but it's, from a performance standpoint, irrelevant- the frequencies of concern are a non-issue inside enclosures (unless you were designing a very small scale tweeter back chamber or something)- not a critique, just noting that it's not necessary (and again- I do it too, for no good reason).
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Old 27th January 2017, 06:42 PM   #10
pcgab is offline pcgab  United States
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Quote:
Originally Posted by badman View Post
I like to chamfer or round holes in braces too but it's, from a performance standpoint, irrelevant- the frequencies of concern are a non-issue inside enclosures (unless you were designing a very small scale tweeter back chamber or something)- not a critique, just noting that it's not necessary (and again- I do it too, for no good reason).
I've wondered about that. I did a small round-over on the braces, both sides, before gluing them in. I did put a large chamfer on the back of the baffle, felt it was especially needed as the baffle is ~1.5" (~38mm) thick.

I glued the rear panel on this morning, mounted some binding posts, and wired them with disconnects for the driver's terminals, used Belden 9497, I really like this wire for speaker internals, and speaker cables. Belden makes a quality product IMO.
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