you might want to carefully consider solvent based contact cements with Sorbothane
http://www.sorbothane.com/Data/Sites/31/pdfs/data-sheets/103-Sorbothane-adhesive-recommendations.pdf
and of course from our own files
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/230299-what-adhesive-use-sorbothane-2.html
http://www.sorbothane.com/Data/Sites/31/pdfs/data-sheets/103-Sorbothane-adhesive-recommendations.pdf
and of course from our own files
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/230299-what-adhesive-use-sorbothane-2.html
I like where this is going! You can easily cut aluminium with good router bits. I've done it multiple times cutting up to 10 mm thick aluminium. The cooling fluid I used was simply WD40.
Protection is definitely recommended. I used a template and router bits with bearings. I've had lots of those bearing just explode on me. You don't want pieces of bearing in an eye so work safely with gloves, hearing protection and eye/face protection.
In the end I still used the same templates but with a solid construction bolted to my home made table (black 'n decker work bench *) holding a following pin like this:
In close up detail:
* = Workmate used:
Router is upside down clamped in the Workmate and bolted to a piece of birch ply by it's side guide system.
It will cut like butter, just bring the speed of the router down a bit to avoid burning the router bits and cool with WD40. As I had a powerful router with just one speed setting I bought a variable speed limiter to bring the speed down.
I've also used water jet cutting to get what I need:
This one is 2 cm thick and filed and hand polished after the cut. It helps to have business contacts to keep something like that affordable. Having spend most my professional life in an Engineering firm helps to establish such connections
. But being short on cash made me use the router for my baffles. I still had the templates I needed for that water yet cut .
Every visitor that has seen my speakers has been surprised the baffles were cut and polished with hand tools. You just can't see it. It's the use of templates that makes a job like that repeatable.
Contrary to the feet this was the result of a polishing set on a drill. Not needed for a matt black finish.
You can see the countersunk holes were cut badly with a simple conical tool not specifically made for cutting metal.
As it wouldn't be in view I just used what I had on hand.
I like the idea of using 2 thinner pieces. If the hole you need inside doesn't need to be perfect just use a jig saw with metal cutting blades. I pre-cut every hole in both baffles (one inner baffle 10 mm thickness and one "beauty" outer baffle 6 mm thickness) with a jigsaw. Not a pleasant job though cutting 10 mm thick aluminium. My front baffle which is 6mm thick was easy in comparison. Aluminium isn't that tough, planning the steps in advance helps to get the job done, I'm sure you can do it. We've seen your work. You have an eye for detail.
Protection is definitely recommended. I used a template and router bits with bearings. I've had lots of those bearing just explode on me. You don't want pieces of bearing in an eye so work safely with gloves, hearing protection and eye/face protection.
In the end I still used the same templates but with a solid construction bolted to my home made table (black 'n decker work bench *) holding a following pin like this:
In close up detail:
* = Workmate used:
Router is upside down clamped in the Workmate and bolted to a piece of birch ply by it's side guide system.
It will cut like butter, just bring the speed of the router down a bit to avoid burning the router bits and cool with WD40. As I had a powerful router with just one speed setting I bought a variable speed limiter to bring the speed down.
I've also used water jet cutting to get what I need:
This one is 2 cm thick and filed and hand polished after the cut. It helps to have business contacts to keep something like that affordable. Having spend most my professional life in an Engineering firm helps to establish such connections
. But being short on cash made me use the router for my baffles. I still had the templates I needed for that water yet cut .Every visitor that has seen my speakers has been surprised the baffles were cut and polished with hand tools. You just can't see it. It's the use of templates that makes a job like that repeatable.
Contrary to the feet this was the result of a polishing set on a drill. Not needed for a matt black finish.
You can see the countersunk holes were cut badly with a simple conical tool not specifically made for cutting metal.
As it wouldn't be in view I just used what I had on hand.
I like the idea of using 2 thinner pieces. If the hole you need inside doesn't need to be perfect just use a jig saw with metal cutting blades. I pre-cut every hole in both baffles (one inner baffle 10 mm thickness and one "beauty" outer baffle 6 mm thickness) with a jigsaw. Not a pleasant job though cutting 10 mm thick aluminium. My front baffle which is 6mm thick was easy in comparison. Aluminium isn't that tough, planning the steps in advance helps to get the job done, I'm sure you can do it. We've seen your work. You have an eye for detail.
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Bushmeister,
(1) you should have "Synergy" or "Unity" in your thread title! I almost missed reading this one!
(2) I actually like the looks of your first version much better, at least compared to your inspiration speakers:
But it would be fun working with the other materials, and maybe spherical boxes will cut diffraction back even more.
(3) Wesayso - those aluminum pieces look stunning (not a lot of WAF, but impressive in a man-cave). I'm jealous of your skills. I can't even get veneering down clean, much less milling aluminum with a router!
(1) you should have "Synergy" or "Unity" in your thread title! I almost missed reading this one!
(2) I actually like the looks of your first version much better, at least compared to your inspiration speakers:
I could never relax with those two creepy eyeballs staring at me! Your black boxes at least have "form following function". Some Geddes-style foam in the waveguide would make them look a little more civilized maybe, or a transparent foam grille?Inspiration taken from these:
But it would be fun working with the other materials, and maybe spherical boxes will cut diffraction back even more.
(3) Wesayso - those aluminum pieces look stunning (not a lot of WAF, but impressive in a man-cave). I'm jealous of your skills. I can't even get veneering down clean, much less milling aluminum with a router!
wesayso - thanks you so much for taking the time to help me from your experiences. It is very high praise to have you think I have an eye for detail - we have all seen your line arrays - now there is a project where every detail has been planned, considered and optimized beyond anything we usually see - you are all about the details!
(I also forgot you did all that by hand you crazy man!)I agree - the double baffle with decent CLD will be the best option for a sub 1CM baffle - I am not too worried about it being that thin, as the baffle is only about 8cm wide with the horn cutout - so no large areas to flex/vibrate - it is more of a 'mounting ring' really.
bwaslo:
That made me laugh!
I knew my 'Mark 2' version wouldn't be to everyone's taste!
The trouble with the big black boxes was they were so imposing....
The sphere looks much smaller due to the curves. Also you are right - once I have a smooth transition with a little sanding, from the horn to the sphere I hope to minimize diffraction. I also don't have to worry about the usual standing wave issues with a sphere construction in this case because the horn is so large and divides the internal shape.
I do have plans beyond just 'eyeballs' though......
I have always considered adding a 15-18" subwoofer into the mix, so have considered sitting the sphere on an upside-down 'vase' planter with a down firing woofer. Something like this - upside-down with the woofer in the opening, reinforced as I have the sphere, on legs with the sphere mounted on top...........No we are really looking like an Alien!
They do this vase planter with the same diameter as the sphere - approx 60L volume.......
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OK how do I change my title?
I have edited the title of my first post -but this hasn't changed the thread title.
Do I have to ask a moderator?
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wesayso - thanks you so much for taking the time to help me from your experiences. It is very high praise to have you think I have an eye for detail - we have all seen your line arrays - now there is a project where every detail has been planned, considered and optimized beyond anything we usually see - you are all about the details!
I agree - the double baffle with decent CLD will be the best option for a sub 1CM baffle - I am not too worried about it being that thin, as the baffle is only about 8cm wide with the horn cutout - so no large areas to flex/vibrate - it is more of a 'mounting ring' really.
bwaslo:
That made me laugh!
I knew my 'Mark 2' version wouldn't be to everyone's taste!
The trouble with the big black boxes was they were so imposing....
The sphere looks much smaller due to the curves. Also you are right - once I have a smooth transition with a little sanding, from the horn to the sphere I hope to minimize diffraction. I also don't have to worry about the usual standing wave issues with a sphere construction in this case because the horn is so large and divides the internal shape.
I do have plans beyond just 'eyeballs' though......
I have always considered adding a 15-18" subwoofer into the mix, so have considered sitting the sphere on an upside-down 'vase' planter with a down firing woofer. Something like this - upside-down with the woofer in the opening, reinforced as I have the sphere, on legs with the sphere mounted on top...........No we are really looking like an Alien!
They do this vase planter with the same diameter as the sphere - approx 60L volume.......
Are you going 60L sealed sub with Linkwitz transform?
The new title is helpful, I like the "Synergy horn of spherical proportions". Is that Bushmeister's or your wording Cal?
Synergy horn of spherical proportions (SHSP) sort of reminds me of rodents of unusual size (ROUS) for anyone familiar with that acronym...
I am guilty of the title X! Sorry.
Yep If I perch the spheres on top of the 60L vase planter then I end up with a down firing sub which raises the spheres up to perfect listening level......
I am even thinking about a couple of these:
https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/type-r-subwoofers42/swr-1522d
Will be using minidsp 4x10HD, or possibly a computer crossover with decent audio interface.....
Yep If I perch the spheres on top of the 60L vase planter then I end up with a down firing sub which raises the spheres up to perfect listening level......
I am even thinking about a couple of these:
https://www.alpine.co.uk/p/Products/type-r-subwoofers42/swr-1522d
Will be using minidsp 4x10HD, or possibly a computer crossover with decent audio interface.....
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Bushmeister,
Those are nice subs. I like the Alpine SWR series. I have designed a couple of band Pass push pull slot loaded subs around them and they are terrific performers.
In last 6mos I have been building a lot of class AB discrete amps. They sound a lot better than my class D's, especially for bass and mid bass. Let me know if you are interested in some amps - I can point you to some great but easy to make designs. I have a thread where you can listen to various amps on same speaker.
11 amps have been tested so far.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/295286-virtual-audition-very-simple-quasi-mosfet-amp.html
Those are nice subs. I like the Alpine SWR series. I have designed a couple of band Pass push pull slot loaded subs around them and they are terrific performers.
In last 6mos I have been building a lot of class AB discrete amps. They sound a lot better than my class D's, especially for bass and mid bass. Let me know if you are interested in some amps - I can point you to some great but easy to make designs. I have a thread where you can listen to various amps on same speaker.
11 amps have been tested so far.
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/295286-virtual-audition-very-simple-quasi-mosfet-amp.html
Wow X - you have been busy!! I will check that out.
I missed that thread - but that is because I have pretty much given up on bettering my MC2 amps - They are class AB with a high bias into A I believe:
MC2 Audio Amplifiers - Premium Pro Audio Amps
Im not bushmeister but am interested in some of these simple AB amps if you can recommend. Cheerd
In the linked thread there are 11 amps tested. All of them sound quite good and you would be happy with almost all of them. One is even a class A with zero feedback.
The top ones are - in no particular order. But my favorite for ease of build and bang for the buck is FH9HV.
Apex FH9HV mod by xrk971, CFH7 by xrk971, Apex FX8 mod by Bimo, Quasi MOSFET by Ranchu/Aksa, VHEX+ by Vzaichenko, and JFET Circlophone by Piersma
FX8 Bimo and FH9HV can be found here in post 1:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/295475-directory-apex-audio-amplifiers-chapter-2-a.html
CFH7 can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/294834-cfh7-amp.html
Quasi MOSFET can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...ple-quasi-complimentary-mosfet-amplifier.html
VHEX+ can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/286992-irfp240-9240-amplifier-simulated-tina.html
JFET Circlophone can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/294338-inverted-j-fet-circlophone-builders-thread.html
The top ones are - in no particular order. But my favorite for ease of build and bang for the buck is FH9HV.
Apex FH9HV mod by xrk971, CFH7 by xrk971, Apex FX8 mod by Bimo, Quasi MOSFET by Ranchu/Aksa, VHEX+ by Vzaichenko, and JFET Circlophone by Piersma
FX8 Bimo and FH9HV can be found here in post 1:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/295475-directory-apex-audio-amplifiers-chapter-2-a.html
CFH7 can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/294834-cfh7-amp.html
Quasi MOSFET can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/soli...ple-quasi-complimentary-mosfet-amplifier.html
VHEX+ can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/286992-irfp240-9240-amplifier-simulated-tina.html
JFET Circlophone can be found here:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/solid-state/294338-inverted-j-fet-circlophone-builders-thread.html
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