I would like to burn in the speakers faster so I use the pink noise and the results are relatively much smaller burning time like as much as 3 times fast.
I came across a movie theater installer and he said that for LF use a continuous sine wave of 10Hz for about 2 hours at 40% of power and your burning is done as both mechanical suspension will get softened and also the current through the wire is also decently higher than general music signal and more than that its silent as 10Hz is not audible.
For midrange the sweep from 50Hz to 200Hz for 2 hours or 4 hours max you will see no difference or very little difference after that.
For Highs use pink noise for 5 hours and done.
I would like to know will that really work?
Consider that 10Hz cycle for 2 hours which is 72000 cycles at 40% of volume which is fair enough to soften almost any woofer...
what do you think?
I came across a movie theater installer and he said that for LF use a continuous sine wave of 10Hz for about 2 hours at 40% of power and your burning is done as both mechanical suspension will get softened and also the current through the wire is also decently higher than general music signal and more than that its silent as 10Hz is not audible.
For midrange the sweep from 50Hz to 200Hz for 2 hours or 4 hours max you will see no difference or very little difference after that.
For Highs use pink noise for 5 hours and done.
I would like to know will that really work?
Consider that 10Hz cycle for 2 hours which is 72000 cycles at 40% of volume which is fair enough to soften almost any woofer...
what do you think?
The idea behind "breaking in" of a driver is to cause large excursions for a period of a few minutes so that the suspension components are forced through their range. This does cause some mechanical changes in the spider I believe, which would result in changes to the response around the driver's resonance frequency. There would not likely be any changes higher up in the passband. I do not see a reason why pink/white noise or any other kind of broadband signal would be useful in this regard. The only thing that is doing is creating heat, and perhaps your system sounds "better" when hot.
If you are talking about "breaking in" electronic components (e.g. crossover caps)... I'm not really a strong believer in doing that, although you can dream up situations where it would have some benefit.
If you are talking about "breaking in" electronic components (e.g. crossover caps)... I'm not really a strong believer in doing that, although you can dream up situations where it would have some benefit.
Burn in is a waste of time.
40% power at 10Hz will damage many/most speakers.
If the expectation is a change in sonic character, you will hear what you believe you will hear even when a change does not actually exist.
I recall a stereophile review 20-25 yrs ago where one of the reviewers (DO?) stressed repeatedly with much florid audiophool language how important initial burn-in was on a particular koetsu cartridge. The manufacturer responded by saying that particular cartridge had been out for review for many months prior to stereophile getting it. The reviewer was imagining things.
Yes, that's what I've read. Should be the most efficient way, I'd have though.
or
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/277413-how-burn-b-c-speaker-nominal-power-10-seconds.html
10hz with 40% power you better have forced cooled pro amp, would´t try normal integrated amp
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/multi-way/277413-how-burn-b-c-speaker-nominal-power-10-seconds.html
10hz with 40% power you better have forced cooled pro amp, would´t try normal integrated amp
If someone collects the most fatuous examples of self-delusion, they'll surely include break-in for speakers. Many aspects of the "test" in which a person does a comparison of how they hear the new compared to later-on sound encourages self-delusion that they can hear differences after the break-in period.
(If somebody made recordings when new compared to later-on, maybe that would be a reasonable demonstration of the value of break-in.)
Ben
(If somebody made recordings when new compared to later-on, maybe that would be a reasonable demonstration of the value of break-in.)
Ben
I can't find one good reason why a DIYer should risk potential
driver damage exposing it to electrical and mechanical stress.
If it has to be loosened up a bit to reach a couple of Hz lower Fs,
so be it. That won't cause grand sound change.
Tha last time I was burning in mechanical parts was really making
a difference, but it was a dirt bike. The driver was lucky and did not
suffer any damages.
driver damage exposing it to electrical and mechanical stress.
If it has to be loosened up a bit to reach a couple of Hz lower Fs,
so be it. That won't cause grand sound change.
Tha last time I was burning in mechanical parts was really making
a difference, but it was a dirt bike. The driver was lucky and did not
suffer any damages.
+1.
Stretch the suspension by pushing the cone gently and carefully to max excursion with your fingers, touching the cone close to voice coil. Do it a few times in both directions while it's removed from the box. Stretching the suspension lowers Fs instantly. You're breaking up resin bonds in the spider.
Someone told me that Bud Fried did this to his woofers.
yes,that´s what burn in does, stretch and soften initially too rigid fresh dried adhesives and glued fibers.There is nothing else to it.
Same difference (same mechanism) as you´ll find between a just of the shop shelf unread book and a read one.
Simple test: put a book spine down, paper pointing up, unopened one will stay parallel and tightlike a brick, a read one will slightly open and even fully open on most read pages.
Once you see it: unmistakeable.
Same happens with suspensions/spiders: pressed cloth impregnated in phenolic resin, or paper cone edges.
Does not apply to cloth/foam/rubber cone edges.
No comment on the difference in how they sound but I have seen TS changes on many speakers tested with a WooferTester2 from new to "broken in".
As an example, I had 4 Altec bass speakers reconed that all measured fairly close to each other but not to spec when I got them back from the reconer. After running one for an hour with frequency sweeps at moderate volume, it measured very close to my original Altec drivers of the same model.
Draw your own conclusions from this. I didn't compare sound quality, just measured.
We did a test with Kef LS50. 1 pair new 1 pair had been playing for a few months. 1 amp new left speaker + older right speaker switching balance with mono signal playing. The difference in bass output was huge. I measured them, this wasn't a subtle difference, below 100Hz there were differences of more then 3dB while differences between same age speakers were below 1dB.
Publish your work, subject it to peer review. I bet your methodology will be laughed at.
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