Hi,
I am new to cabinet building, but have some experience with woodworking.
I have an 4 inch driver from an old Sony TV-set audio system. I'm planning to install this driver into a custom case made of MDF.
The old case has thin plastic (about 3 mm) walls and I plan to put the driver into a new speaker cabinet made of 10 mm MDF.
If needed I can change the material for the new cabinet, but I would prefer that it is some type of wood.
Should the volume of the MDF speaker cabinet be about the same as the old plastic one?
The old cabinet does not have any vents (ports) or passive radators, so I guess i should avoid both in my new cabinet.
I am new to cabinet building, but have some experience with woodworking.
I have an 4 inch driver from an old Sony TV-set audio system. I'm planning to install this driver into a custom case made of MDF.
The old case has thin plastic (about 3 mm) walls and I plan to put the driver into a new speaker cabinet made of 10 mm MDF.
If needed I can change the material for the new cabinet, but I would prefer that it is some type of wood.
Should the volume of the MDF speaker cabinet be about the same as the old plastic one?
The old cabinet does not have any vents (ports) or passive radators, so I guess i should avoid both in my new cabinet.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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Thank you very much for the advice. 
Now, I have another question...
I am connecting this speaker along with two other satellite speakers to a class D amplifier (TDA7492P 50W 2 Wireless Bluetooth 4 0 Audio Receiver Digital Amplifier Board Aux | eBay).
My question is should I even connect 3 speakers to 2 terminals and also in what way should they be connected. The old Sony driver has 2 sets of terminals.
These are the satellite speakers I am using (2 pcs High quality 2 Inch 8 ohm 15W Neodymium magnet Full range speaker unit-in Speakers from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group).
Now, I have another question...
I am connecting this speaker along with two other satellite speakers to a class D amplifier (TDA7492P 50W 2 Wireless Bluetooth 4 0 Audio Receiver Digital Amplifier Board Aux | eBay).
My question is should I even connect 3 speakers to 2 terminals and also in what way should they be connected. The old Sony driver has 2 sets of terminals.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
These are the satellite speakers I am using (2 pcs High quality 2 Inch 8 ohm 15W Neodymium magnet Full range speaker unit-in Speakers from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group).
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Forget about Sony unit. Get yourself a midwoofer unit for each
channel and make a FAST speaker. Your Sony lacks woofer frequencies
and it's no fun to listen like that. Visaton makes lower priced WS range
of woofers that are ideally put into a sealed box. Visaton WS20E-4
would suit the application well with a 500 Hz XO point. That would
call for speaker designer skills to achieve a good sounding speaker
assuming Chinese full ranger is what the measurements show.
channel and make a FAST speaker. Your Sony lacks woofer frequencies
and it's no fun to listen like that. Visaton makes lower priced WS range
of woofers that are ideally put into a sealed box. Visaton WS20E-4
would suit the application well with a 500 Hz XO point. That would
call for speaker designer skills to achieve a good sounding speaker
assuming Chinese full ranger is what the measurements show.
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Probably that Sony speaker IS a subwoofer !
I mean, only subs are double VC equipped ( ancient inheritance from car audio ? ! ) because the supposedly monophonic content of low frequencies in the record would permit to do so . Still, it would need a crossover, and a stereo one, each for each VC/ channel. probably the cost of the crossover would surpass the driver's cost ( we're talking betwen $ 5-10 ), that's why active subwoofers have got over passive ones ( just feed a driver with only low freq and enough power ). And no-one nowadays would use a double VC driver with one coil per channel; intermodulation, possibility of failures ( when there's no sound in one channel what happens ?) etc.
But Jure8479 can try it!
I mean, only subs are double VC equipped ( ancient inheritance from car audio ? ! ) because the supposedly monophonic content of low frequencies in the record would permit to do so . Still, it would need a crossover, and a stereo one, each for each VC/ channel. probably the cost of the crossover would surpass the driver's cost ( we're talking betwen $ 5-10 ), that's why active subwoofers have got over passive ones ( just feed a driver with only low freq and enough power ). And no-one nowadays would use a double VC driver with one coil per channel; intermodulation, possibility of failures ( when there's no sound in one channel what happens ?) etc.
But Jure8479 can try it!
This Sony driver was originally working with two speaker boxes, each with its own tweeter driver and a mid tone driver.
There was (and still is) a stereo crossover board installed inside the big speaker box.
There was (and still is) a stereo crossover board installed inside the big speaker box.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
What you're are trying to do is very tricky business for a novice DIYer.
I would suggest you find yourself a boom box project already done.
The chances that units you're mentioning are true midrange and tweeter
are slim. More likely a cone tweeter and a piezo super tweeter. Make
better photos of these, crossover filter too.
For a good quality speaker design, it's esential to have a decent midwoofer.
Your design criteria limits it to a 4,5" unit. Find yourself among Peerless SDS
line a 4 inch woofer or a similar specified unit from another manufacturer.
You should be able to have 4-5 litres available for each woofer.
Visaton W 100 S-4 is worth considering. Then the next best thing would be
to add a real tweeter, not some crappy full ranger.
It's so easy to get dissapointed in making your own speakers if you believe
in a wrong set of design criteria.
Edit: Be very critical when you get advice from internet. You wouldn't believe
how much nonsense there is out there. I talk nonsense occasionally also.
I would suggest you find yourself a boom box project already done.
The chances that units you're mentioning are true midrange and tweeter
are slim. More likely a cone tweeter and a piezo super tweeter. Make
better photos of these, crossover filter too.
For a good quality speaker design, it's esential to have a decent midwoofer.
Your design criteria limits it to a 4,5" unit. Find yourself among Peerless SDS
line a 4 inch woofer or a similar specified unit from another manufacturer.
You should be able to have 4-5 litres available for each woofer.
Visaton W 100 S-4 is worth considering. Then the next best thing would be
to add a real tweeter, not some crappy full ranger.
It's so easy to get dissapointed in making your own speakers if you believe
in a wrong set of design criteria.
Edit: Be very critical when you get advice from internet. You wouldn't believe
how much nonsense there is out there. I talk nonsense occasionally also.
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Here are pictures of the enclosure I intend to build for the two satellites and the woofer.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
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