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Old 25th April 2016, 03:00 AM   #1
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Default Aviatrix MLTL build

Hello all,

I am building this kit for mainly music (70/30) compared to movies and such. I listen mainly to jazz, classical, and some light rock. I purchased from parts-express. The shipping process went well. I also spoke via email with Curt from Speakerdesignworks and he was very helpful with all my questions. I went with a baltic birch ply MLTL with a rear facing port compared to the front facing port in the plans on their site. I am also doubling the front baffle. This is the first wood project ever for me. It is also the first soldering project for me also. I did make a large mistake in cutting the wood where I cut rebates for the tweeters on both layers of wood as I am using two to make the front baffle 1.5 inches compared to the .75 on the site. I had also cut the rebate holes for the tweeters 1/16 too small and I had already cut the through hole, so I had no way of fixing it by making 1/16 larger in diameter. Luckily I had extra wood and re-cut the outer baffle bords. The pictures here show the wood with the smaller holes and extra rebates on the longer inner baffle boards. I didn't want to not include my mistakes. Hopefully it helps someone after me. If I could do them again I would cut all rebate holes, then insure the speakers fit nicely through them. I would also route the holes from the front of the boards to the back as this plywood chips easily. The sheets come in 5x5 feet, so you will need to buy two of then and they run around 60 dollars each. They are not as dead as sounding (slightly brighter in the mids) as MDF and stand up longer to moving them without breaking. I plan on cutting the baffles for a center channel and surrounds from the second piece of ply I plan on buying tomorrow. I have not purchased those kits yet though, and am just planning ahead as I am using a friends router for this project. I did have to buy some bits for it though. One more thing is I didn't show the pics of the backside of the boards. I have a 45 degree scallope on them as the baffle is now 1.5 inches. This is what Curt stated I should do. I am learning a ton on this project. The main thing is measure more than twice and slow down when the tools are in your hand. I was excited and made mistakes which shouldn't have been made. Let me know if you have any guidance for me as I am a complete newby.
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Old 25th April 2016, 03:20 AM   #2
kevinkr is offline kevinkr  United States
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Relocated to Multi-Way since your project is a D'Appolito configuration 2 way.
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Old 25th April 2016, 03:51 AM   #3
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It's not a big deal, but you should leave more space between power resistors. The closer bunched up they are the quicker they'll heat up. You want as much air around them as possible, but it's still probably overkill.

Also can you post a link to the schematic you are working from?

Best,

Erik
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Old 25th April 2016, 04:45 PM   #4
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This is the link to the box design:
Speaker Design Works

This is the link to the crossover:
Speaker Design Works

I didn't solder the common ground yet to the crossover so it is missing, but will be easy to add in before I attach it to the box.
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Old 25th April 2016, 05:23 PM   #5
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Thanks, I was getting a little confused. Looks like a good job on the crossover, but if you make any more keep some spacing between power resistors, as showin in the web page you linked, or a little more.

Best,


Erik
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Old 25th April 2016, 06:50 PM   #6
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Default Resistor spacing

While I agree in general about the suggestions to separate the pair of paralleled resistors to allow better cooling, in this case they are used in a tweeter circuit. Not much power goes to tweeters from music and and these resistors are not likely being used anywhere near their 10-watt ratings.
Paul
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Old 15th May 2016, 05:44 AM   #7
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Speaker building is harder than I thought. Getting the panels lined up is not too easy. Maybe I tried gluing too many panels at a time. Some of them are off by like 1/16 of an inch and needs a ton of sanding. I found that you can't have any wood glue visible even though it is sanded flush. It won't stain.
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Old 16th May 2016, 08:05 PM   #8
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Also found that using a router is much faster than sanding. As long as the guide is very precise
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Old 17th May 2016, 05:55 AM   #9
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Staining went smooth. I think I will add one more coat of stain before applying clear coat. It went ok, getting it on all sides, but there are visible streaks where parts are thicker than others. We just had twin girls and getting back within 15 minutes to wipe off excess is harder than it should be. These are the pics of the stain and clear coat I am using. I did use a palm sander to sand before staining, but it left marks. I didn't have tons of time to get it perfect, so just left it as is.

What is the best way to apply plastic clear coat? I have a synthetic brush for it. I have 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper, and 220 grit dry sandpaper.
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Old 18th May 2016, 03:44 PM   #10
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Default Finished them

Finally finished them. Well sort of. I don't have time to do everything perfect with the two new babies. I didn't sand the clear coat at all. Only applied two coats too.

I am powering them from a cheap receiver. It is old and only gives out 20wpc. These need 85wpc though. I will build either the Akitika GT101 (60wpc) stereo amp or the Hypex NC400 (300+wpc) monoblocks, or some newclassD monoblocks. The latter two are much more expensive. Does anyone have any experience with them? The later two amps are much more expensive compared to the Akitika.

So far the speakers sound great. I can hear much more of the music. They are flat and don't push up the bass. I can't give a great review as they don't have a great amp.
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