Greetings,
another Zaph ZRT 2 Way Build by a noob to speaker building - as I have learnt so much from others posts I thought it only fair to share - thanks for your tips etc...
This is a pretty plain build as it is my first - I'll tweak and play when I've finished my amp...
The cabinets are 25mm MDF and at the moment I'm leaving them with a couple of coats of sanding sealer till I decide on a finish.
I found gluing braces separately allowed me to control and square things up in summer when the glue work time is less.
Also I had built my own circle jig but I opted to get the perfect circle because I intend to build more and wanted the precision. (exchange rate a killer at the moment in Oz...)
The photos are pretty self explanatory.
Now I need to build Anthony Holton's NXV200L-R4....
another Zaph ZRT 2 Way Build by a noob to speaker building - as I have learnt so much from others posts I thought it only fair to share - thanks for your tips etc...
This is a pretty plain build as it is my first - I'll tweak and play when I've finished my amp...
- I wanted to meet a couple of design specs on the build:
- removable front baffle for tweaks
- removable internal wall dampening for experimental purposes
- removable x-overs for tweaks.
The cabinets are 25mm MDF and at the moment I'm leaving them with a couple of coats of sanding sealer till I decide on a finish.
I found gluing braces separately allowed me to control and square things up in summer when the glue work time is less.
Also I had built my own circle jig but I opted to get the perfect circle because I intend to build more and wanted the precision. (exchange rate a killer at the moment in Oz...)
The photos are pretty self explanatory.
Now I need to build Anthony Holton's NXV200L-R4....
Very nice work. Looks quite fancy for a "Plain Build" . How do they sound? As I see you are yet to finish the exterior and you are in Aus you might be interested in the following. I've built a pair of Elsinores featured elsewhere on this forum and finished them in Tasmanian blackwood veneer which is available from Cabinet Timbers in north Laverton (suburb of Melbourne). It comes in 1.4mm ply backed sheets. Since I don't know what part of Aus your in you might have to find an outlet in your area (unless your also from Melbourne). They have many other types of veneer such as Vic Ash etc. I quite like your easily removable front baffles for tweaking. I have to remove the drivers to gain access to the innards of mine which is tedious. Next build perhaps.
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Hey irext,
thanks for that.
yeah I live in Melbourne...I'm going to let them alone for 6 months and then probably veneer them.
Thanks for the veneer tip...I was also thinking of laminex (maybe a Diamond Gloss black Starlight for a piano black type finish with some texture, or even a less traditional finish...if I could apply images of the Hubble Deep Space telescope to a laminate I would like that...no copyright from NASA required...) but the cost of Laminex is unjustified for this...
The front baffle fixing worked out well with the cross dowels and tassie oak anchor pieces - in case I leave them on for some time now that the drivers are fitted, I smeared a little ant-sieze on the furniture bolts when I last torqued them up.
It's impressive how much the MDF can warp when not fixed to the cabs...as good as a barometer which makes sense...less so after the sanding sealer was applied...
The gasket is closed cell EPDM nitrile and is ideal for this application...same stuff for sealing electrical enclosures for outdoors...I also used melamine on felt with urethane top and back for the lining...
thanks for that.
yeah I live in Melbourne...I'm going to let them alone for 6 months and then probably veneer them.
Thanks for the veneer tip...I was also thinking of laminex (maybe a Diamond Gloss black Starlight for a piano black type finish with some texture, or even a less traditional finish...if I could apply images of the Hubble Deep Space telescope to a laminate I would like that...no copyright from NASA required...) but the cost of Laminex is unjustified for this...
The front baffle fixing worked out well with the cross dowels and tassie oak anchor pieces - in case I leave them on for some time now that the drivers are fitted, I smeared a little ant-sieze on the furniture bolts when I last torqued them up.
It's impressive how much the MDF can warp when not fixed to the cabs...as good as a barometer which makes sense...less so after the sanding sealer was applied...
The gasket is closed cell EPDM nitrile and is ideal for this application...same stuff for sealing electrical enclosures for outdoors...I also used melamine on felt with urethane top and back for the lining...
Really nice work! I envy the space and time you have. 
Wow, I just saw the cap values in the tweeter section. 110uF in total. Those can get pretty expensive fast.
I'd strongly recommend if you want to stay with all film, use Axon film caps for secondary (parallel circuits) for cost savings.
Mundorf MKP's are probably ideal for the tweeter's rising output to 30kHz. They're inexpensive, tons of detail but warm rather than bright compared to the Supremes. The required values (30uF + 10uF) are large enough you should consider multi-capping, which with the Mundorf MKP's are not much more expensive than single value caps of the same total size. You could do both series caps with just 10uF ($8US) caps, but C5 is probably easier with a pair of 39uF ($8US) + 1.8uF ($1.33US) from Axon, or consider a bypassed bi-polar electrolytic. Of course I only like to recommend Mills resistors, so I'd suggest it for the tweeter resistor.
The Revelator woofer is worth a nice coil too. Any of a number of copper foil coils (14 gauge or larger) from Goetz, Mundorf of Janzten would be pretty sweet.
Good luck,
Erik
Wow, I just saw the cap values in the tweeter section. 110uF in total. Those can get pretty expensive fast.
I'd strongly recommend if you want to stay with all film, use Axon film caps for secondary (parallel circuits) for cost savings.
Mundorf MKP's are probably ideal for the tweeter's rising output to 30kHz. They're inexpensive, tons of detail but warm rather than bright compared to the Supremes. The required values (30uF + 10uF) are large enough you should consider multi-capping, which with the Mundorf MKP's are not much more expensive than single value caps of the same total size. You could do both series caps with just 10uF ($8US) caps, but C5 is probably easier with a pair of 39uF ($8US) + 1.8uF ($1.33US) from Axon, or consider a bypassed bi-polar electrolytic. Of course I only like to recommend Mills resistors, so I'd suggest it for the tweeter resistor.
The Revelator woofer is worth a nice coil too.
Any of a number of copper foil coils (14 gauge or larger) from Goetz, Mundorf of Janzten would be pretty sweet. Good luck,
Erik
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Thankfully, the power handling demands on a tweeter impedance conjugate filter are normally very low, so using electrolytics there is perfectly fine
For some I suppose....
I've found the best source for Xover parts in Aus is Speakerbug. They can supply the full range of Jantzen components. When I first built my Elsinores I used a Solen SCR cap as the series HP filter for the Tweeter. After about 6 months of listening I upgraded to a Jantzen Superior Z cap. The difference was astonishing. Much greater subtlety and detail. I was up till that point a sceptic of exotic Xover components but I've changed my tune (pardon the pun) somewhat. Speakerbug are very easy to deal with and delivery is prompt.
WES components are quite good also for standard components.
Cheers.
WES components are quite good also for standard components.
Cheers.
Guys, don't be passive, be more active! Everyone knows it's better for your health and wallet. Throw in some DSP and forget Munchendorfers or Bosendorfers. They just cost money and add nothing to your life
You go with "active" and you spend the rest of your life sitting on your *** in front of the computer adjusting DSP filters.
Erik
You go with "active" and you spend the rest of your life sitting on your *** in front of the computer adjusting DSP filters.
Erik
Yes, what a lovely life
I've got the amp going to drive these speakers now...dual monoblock nxV200L R4's from Anthony Holton in Tasmania.
I had some acrylic sheet lying around that I'd made a circle jig for the driver apertures - I found it wasn't accurate enough so I used it in the amp.
I built the amp (and the speakers) as a result of some mobile repeater enclosures that were going in the bin at work that a colleague told me about - I rescued them and filled the existing tapped holes with metal putty from Bunnings and painted over them.
I threaded some 1/4" copper rod to arrange the levels and also threw on some cable management with some 1/8" rod also threaded.
The system sounds excellent and I'm just burning the full kit in now - I'll re-appraise it when it's arranged properly before fiddling...currently listening to Aphex ambient works, red Army Choir, Goldberg Variations (Sokolov '82) and Zappa and The Shaggs...bewdiful... (...Davis Funny Valentine live rocks too)...
I had some acrylic sheet lying around that I'd made a circle jig for the driver apertures - I found it wasn't accurate enough so I used it in the amp.
I built the amp (and the speakers) as a result of some mobile repeater enclosures that were going in the bin at work that a colleague told me about - I rescued them and filled the existing tapped holes with metal putty from Bunnings and painted over them.
I threaded some 1/4" copper rod to arrange the levels and also threw on some cable management with some 1/8" rod also threaded.
The system sounds excellent and I'm just burning the full kit in now - I'll re-appraise it when it's arranged properly before fiddling...currently listening to Aphex ambient works, red Army Choir, Goldberg Variations (Sokolov '82) and Zappa and The Shaggs...bewdiful... (...Davis Funny Valentine live rocks too)...
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