I have just started to build a set of Carreras with/for my 14 YO son.
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/carrera
Collected all the parts and decided to make the crossovers on PCBs.
Anyone else have experience with these speakers?
https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/carrera
Collected all the parts and decided to make the crossovers on PCBs.
Anyone else have experience with these speakers?
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We kind of went all in on the parts. Figuring that the Carreras could be built for what a decent vintage pair plus a restoration would cost.
Zaph|Audio - ZD5 - Scan Speak 15W8530K00 and Vifa XT25
Hi,
The above has a rather different take on bass tuning for that bass driver.
rgds, sreten.
Hi,
The above has a rather different take on bass tuning for that bass driver.
rgds, sreten.
I built the Carreras this spring after having previously owned the Speedsters. I didn't have them at the same time so I couldn't directly compare them, but the Carrera is a significant step up. Having lived with them for a while now I can say I don't have an itch for anything better. Any new speaker projects will be variations of budget speakers. I guess I could call them my end game speakers. I'm driving them with an Elekit TU-8200 running single ended EL34 tubes and I am quite happy.
EODevan;
So, you are getting ~8W/channel from you elekit and it drives the carreras well? I have a Tubelabs Simple SE running EL34 at 7W/Channel and was worried hat it didn't have enough power.
What did you use in the way of capacitors and inductors for your carreras?
Sidebar: Is EOD your initials or occupation?
So, you are getting ~8W/channel from you elekit and it drives the carreras well? I have a Tubelabs Simple SE running EL34 at 7W/Channel and was worried hat it didn't have enough power.
What did you use in the way of capacitors and inductors for your carreras?
Sidebar: Is EOD your initials or occupation?
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I've been very happy with the Elekit and the Carreras. I'm listening about 8' from the speakers in a roughly 12x18 room. I don't tend to listen loudly, but I have no complaints with the volume. I do happen to be collecting parts to build a Millett DCPP right now, but that is just for fun, not need. I seriously considered the Tubelab SPP and may still build it someday.
I'm trying to post photos with my phone. I think I'm limited to one because of my post count. But I used Jantzen air core inductors, Mills resistors, Audyn Q4 caps on the woofers and Audyn Plus caps on the tweeters. Glued and zip tied in place.
I get a pinpoint centered voice but also a fantastic 3 dimensionality to the soundstage. I can tell the difference between lossless rips and MP3 from the way the sound opens up. Playing through a Schiit Bifrost Uber.
Lots of information on the Speedsters but very little on the Carreras, so it felt like a bit of a gamble but I am more than satisfied with the sonics.
EOD is indeed my occupation. It's been a good gig for me.
I'm trying to post photos with my phone. I think I'm limited to one because of my post count. But I used Jantzen air core inductors, Mills resistors, Audyn Q4 caps on the woofers and Audyn Plus caps on the tweeters. Glued and zip tied in place.
I get a pinpoint centered voice but also a fantastic 3 dimensionality to the soundstage. I can tell the difference between lossless rips and MP3 from the way the sound opens up. Playing through a Schiit Bifrost Uber.
Lots of information on the Speedsters but very little on the Carreras, so it felt like a bit of a gamble but I am more than satisfied with the sonics.
EOD is indeed my occupation. It's been a good gig for me.
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I decided to experiment with a PCB for the crossovers. I was concerned about fitting it all in the enclosures.
I love Pete Millett's work. I build a Jonokuchi headphone amp a few years back to drive a pair of AKG 701s. You will never want to listen to speakers ever again. Actually, I am trying to emulate that sound with the Carreras.
I love Pete Millett's work. I build a Jonokuchi headphone amp a few years back to drive a pair of AKG 701s. You will never want to listen to speakers ever again. Actually, I am trying to emulate that sound with the Carreras.
I've never tried to DIY a PCB. It seems like a cool idea. I had some concerns with the physical size of the crossover as well. but then I decided to make a removable front baffle. Otherwise I would have done two separate boards.
I'm excited about the DCPP. I've had a couple single ended tube amps now, but never P-P. Pete's stuff looks well thought out. I love to listen to HD-650's from the Elekit, I think you will really like the Carreras. They are able to create a sound that seems to just emanate from the air all around.
How is the box construction coming along?
I'm excited about the DCPP. I've had a couple single ended tube amps now, but never P-P. Pete's stuff looks well thought out. I love to listen to HD-650's from the Elekit, I think you will really like the Carreras. They are able to create a sound that seems to just emanate from the air all around.
How is the box construction coming along?
Good. I am using 0.75" MDF. I have all the panels cut. My kid also learned about table saw kickback. Nothing hurt except for his pride and maybe his skivvies. Any tips on cutting the driver holes? My plan is to use scroll saw for the hole and then router the recesses.
Do you have a router? The Jasper Circle Cutting Jig is the best option by far. Especially because you'll need to recess mount the drivers.
Jasper Circle jig will be your best friend making perfect driver cut-outs and recesses. Best $30-40 you will ever spend. I have the model 200 and the 400 and get used almost every time I bring out the router.
I'd have to echo the above. I just got the smaller Jasper 400, as size constraints keep my speakers on the smaller size, but that combined with a good quality carbide spiral upcut bit makes holes a breeze. Do it a couple times on scrap to get the technique, but it's really worth the investment. Just be sure to get a carbide bit and not cheap high speed steel, otherwise you'll never get a hole cut.
I built my cabinets with 18mm Baltic Birch with one window brace. Then I glued 1/4 MDF to the outside for a smoother surface to paint. The baffle is chopping block style, made from walnut and around 1 1/8" thick. The MDF protruded past the plywood 1/4" so the baffle looks slightly recessed. That allowed me to hide the foam gasket on the front.
I built my cabinets with 18mm Baltic Birch with one window brace. Then I glued 1/4 MDF to the outside for a smoother surface to paint. The baffle is chopping block style, made from walnut and around 1 1/8" thick. The MDF protruded past the plywood 1/4" so the baffle looks slightly recessed. That allowed me to hide the foam gasket on the front.
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I have pkayed with this design a bunch. The original cncept was mine. If you look at the bottom of Paul's page the speakers that are called intitled are mine. I have tried 3 different Hiq tweeters in them and played with the xover a lot. If you have questions send me a pm. I might be able to help.
2bz,
Veneer should not be too hard to apply.
Take a look at post #7 from bk856er on this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/278781-veneering-help-please.html
He shared a link with some tips on how to do it.
Veneer should not be too hard to apply.
Take a look at post #7 from bk856er on this thread:
http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/construction-tips/278781-veneering-help-please.html
He shared a link with some tips on how to do it.
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Boxes look nice, you may want to consider putting a few dowels in to brace the sides against each other. The Scan woofer will thump pretty good, so a stiff box is a good idea.
I looked at that thread about veneering. I'll say I've only veneered one thing, but I used the iron on method and it was a cinch and came out perfect. Maybe he got a bad batch of veneer?
Cut the veneer to the rough size you want. Then, tape the veneer down to a piece of cardboard, paper side up. Spread a liberal amount of yellow wood glue on the paper backing of the veneer and the surface of the speaker box. Use a 4 inch foam paint roller (cheap Harbor Freight ones work well) to spread the glue evenly. Allow the glue to dry, maybe an hour or two. Then place your veneer how you want it, and using your iron set to a moderately high temperature work your way from the center out, applying steady pressure. Use a tshirt or brown paper bag between the iron and veneer to protect the surface of the veneer. Be sure to give a little extra attention to the edges and corners. Allow it to cool for at least 8 hours or so, longer doesn't hurt. Then I used a flush cut router bit to trim it.
I had no problems with bubbles or veneer separation. I used a locally purchased paper backed walnut veneer.
I looked at that thread about veneering. I'll say I've only veneered one thing, but I used the iron on method and it was a cinch and came out perfect. Maybe he got a bad batch of veneer?
Cut the veneer to the rough size you want. Then, tape the veneer down to a piece of cardboard, paper side up. Spread a liberal amount of yellow wood glue on the paper backing of the veneer and the surface of the speaker box. Use a 4 inch foam paint roller (cheap Harbor Freight ones work well) to spread the glue evenly. Allow the glue to dry, maybe an hour or two. Then place your veneer how you want it, and using your iron set to a moderately high temperature work your way from the center out, applying steady pressure. Use a tshirt or brown paper bag between the iron and veneer to protect the surface of the veneer. Be sure to give a little extra attention to the edges and corners. Allow it to cool for at least 8 hours or so, longer doesn't hurt. Then I used a flush cut router bit to trim it.
I had no problems with bubbles or veneer separation. I used a locally purchased paper backed walnut veneer.
EODevan,
bk586er got it right too with iron on method. I have read that Tightbond original wood glue also works fine (aliphatic resin glue). I've tried with PVA glue, but results were not satisfactory.
Btw, your Carrera's came out very nice. Curious, do you play any of the heavier genres of music (rock/metal) on these speakers?
bk586er got it right too with iron on method. I have read that Tightbond original wood glue also works fine (aliphatic resin glue). I've tried with PVA glue, but results were not satisfactory.
Btw, your Carrera's came out very nice. Curious, do you play any of the heavier genres of music (rock/metal) on these speakers?
The Jasper jig works great! Wife isn't too happy about the MDF dust (my shop shares the footprint with the laundry). Looks like I'm going to be cutting holes outdoors.
I decided on zebrawood veneer for the speakers. At this point, what's another $100? Wish me luck.
Wood Veneer Recon Zebrawood 48x98 1 Piece 10mil Paper Backed "Exotic" Part 29 | eBay
I decided on zebrawood veneer for the speakers. At this point, what's another $100? Wish me luck.
Wood Veneer Recon Zebrawood 48x98 1 Piece 10mil Paper Backed "Exotic" Part 29 | eBay
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