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Old 24th October 2015, 07:44 PM   #1
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Default effects of building a speaker in the wall??

Hey guys hows it goin? I am currently gathering resources for my garage computer speaker build. It is a small area in the corner my garage. I do not have much bench space. I have my computer monitor mounted on the wall. I would like to build in wall speakers on either side.

I just scored a brand new pair of Dayton Audio DA175-8 7" Aluminum Cone Woofer

And I am currently searching for a decent tweeter....probably a Dayton DC28F or Tymphany BC25SC55.

I will be powering these by a 4x100 amp and fully active crossovers, and Eq and sound processing will be done with my computer.

My question is, Do I need to take anything into account when I mount these in the walls?? How will this effect the sound vs being in a bookshelf type enclosure??

Last edited by illnastyimpreza; 28th October 2015 at 05:58 PM.
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Old 24th October 2015, 07:53 PM   #2
cbdb is offline cbdb  Canada
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The box is an important part of the woofer. For best sound build a speaker than put it in the wall.
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Old 24th October 2015, 07:58 PM   #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cbdb View Post
The box is an important part of the woofer. For best sound build a speaker than put it in the wall.
That's a good idea. I could essentially turn the wall cavity into a speaker box.

What size would be optimal for these woofers? should I do sealed or ported?

what effect would ported have over a sealed?
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Old 24th October 2015, 11:01 PM   #4
AllenB is offline AllenB  Australia
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Originally Posted by illnastyimpreza View Post
I have my computer monitor mounted on the wall. I would like to do the same with the sound.
Mounting them flush with the wall might be a sight better than placing their box on the wall.
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Old 25th October 2015, 01:02 AM   #5
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Yep. A well executed design with the drivers mounted in the wall removes a number of the most challenging issues for speaker design.
- baffle effect
- wall reflections

It does not fix floor reflections, But it does nicely nail these down !

If you are doing an active xo, jump in and build it. I have no doubt you will get some good results.

If this is a shed system, I would err on the side of "just do it" and largely ignore calls for enclosures etc.... These are "good" but not necessarily essential.
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Old 25th October 2015, 07:16 AM   #6
GM is online now GM  United States
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Yeah, assuming 2x4 studs on 16" centers and 92.625" long = a ~2.72 ft^3 cavity, this high a Qt driver will have a ~ 52 Hz F3/0.6 Qtc, so very good transient response and with a bit of EQ, plenty of bass for most music.

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Old 28th October 2015, 04:41 AM   #7
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Cut a stud out, that will leave you with a better sized enclosure for that woof.
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Old 28th October 2015, 04:54 PM   #8
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Should I go with the recommended enclosure volume from the parts express page? Vented Volume1.2 ft.³Vented F3 28 Hz.

What size should the port be ??
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Old 28th October 2015, 05:08 PM   #9
AndrewT is offline AndrewT  Scotland
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Ported box needs to be airtight.
The stud wall will not be airtight, so I'm inclined to suggest that normal vented calculations will not apply unless you can find a value for the box Q/damping.
In addition the panels of 16" wide plasterboard will flex with speaker pressure. So your volume is not fixed. This again interferes with vented box design calculation.
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Old 28th October 2015, 05:15 PM   #10
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Ported box needs to be airtight.
The stud wall will not be airtight, so I'm inclined to suggest that normal vented calculations will not apply unless you can find a value for the box Q/damping.
In addition the panels of 16" wide plasterboard will flex with speaker pressure. So your volume is not fixed. This again interferes with vented box design calculation.
the front baffle will be either 3/4'' plywood or MDF, or whatever I have laying around the garage (I believe I need minimum 3/4'' in order to flush mount the drivers anyway) I am going to seal everything in the wall up tightly with caulking/gorilla glue. So the "speaker box" will be VERY tight indeed
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