Hey guys hows it goin? I am currently gathering resources for my garage computer speaker build. It is a small area in the corner my garage. I do not have much bench space. I have my computer monitor mounted on the wall. I would like to build in wall speakers on either side.
I just scored a brand new pair of Dayton Audio DA175-8 7" Aluminum Cone Woofer
And I am currently searching for a decent tweeter....probably a Dayton DC28F or Tymphany BC25SC55.
I will be powering these by a 4x100 amp and fully active crossovers, and Eq and sound processing will be done with my computer.
My question is, Do I need to take anything into account when I mount these in the walls?? How will this effect the sound vs being in a bookshelf type enclosure??
I just scored a brand new pair of Dayton Audio DA175-8 7" Aluminum Cone Woofer
And I am currently searching for a decent tweeter....probably a Dayton DC28F or Tymphany BC25SC55.
I will be powering these by a 4x100 amp and fully active crossovers, and Eq and sound processing will be done with my computer.
My question is, Do I need to take anything into account when I mount these in the walls?? How will this effect the sound vs being in a bookshelf type enclosure??
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That's a good idea. I could essentially turn the wall cavity into a speaker box.
What size would be optimal for these woofers? should I do sealed or ported?
what effect would ported have over a sealed?
Mounting them flush with the wall might be a sight better than placing their box on the wall.
Yep. A well executed design with the drivers mounted in the wall removes a number of the most challenging issues for speaker design.
- baffle effect
- wall reflections
It does not fix floor reflections, But it does nicely nail these down !
If you are doing an active xo, jump in and build it. I have no doubt you will get some good results.
If this is a shed system, I would err on the side of "just do it" and largely ignore calls for enclosures etc.... These are "good" but not necessarily essential.
- baffle effect
- wall reflections
It does not fix floor reflections, But it does nicely nail these down !
If you are doing an active xo, jump in and build it. I have no doubt you will get some good results.
If this is a shed system, I would err on the side of "just do it" and largely ignore calls for enclosures etc.... These are "good" but not necessarily essential.
Ported box needs to be airtight.
The stud wall will not be airtight, so I'm inclined to suggest that normal vented calculations will not apply unless you can find a value for the box Q/damping.
In addition the panels of 16" wide plasterboard will flex with speaker pressure. So your volume is not fixed. This again interferes with vented box design calculation.
The stud wall will not be airtight, so I'm inclined to suggest that normal vented calculations will not apply unless you can find a value for the box Q/damping.
In addition the panels of 16" wide plasterboard will flex with speaker pressure. So your volume is not fixed. This again interferes with vented box design calculation.
the front baffle will be either 3/4'' plywood or MDF, or whatever I have laying around the garage
(I believe I need minimum 3/4'' in order to flush mount the drivers anyway) I am going to seal everything in the wall up tightly with caulking/gorilla glue. So the "speaker box" will be VERY tight indeed
Personal experience
I installed / listened to a pair of custom wall mount speakers made by a local hifi shop a while back (actually something like 20yrs ago). Used Audax or Peerless/Vifa drivers IIRC. While not in-walls, they were very shallow, and yes had surprisingly good bass - but without the ability to toe-in, the seating range over which imaging and top end detail was at its best was very limited.
AFAIC, they were fine for background, or well suited to a specific application such as small home theatre were seating / listening window may be controllable.
Just saying, while it's one option for hiding woofers -a solution not without structural integrity issues at the extreme low end - "in wall" is not a panacea. Now, behind an acoustically transparent projection system screen where enclosure size, placement and orientation for required directionality is not a problem, that's a different story.
I installed / listened to a pair of custom wall mount speakers made by a local hifi shop a while back (actually something like 20yrs ago). Used Audax or Peerless/Vifa drivers IIRC. While not in-walls, they were very shallow, and yes had surprisingly good bass - but without the ability to toe-in, the seating range over which imaging and top end detail was at its best was very limited.
AFAIC, they were fine for background, or well suited to a specific application such as small home theatre were seating / listening window may be controllable.
Just saying, while it's one option for hiding woofers -a solution not without structural integrity issues at the extreme low end - "in wall" is not a panacea. Now, behind an acoustically transparent projection system screen where enclosure size, placement and orientation for required directionality is not a problem, that's a different story.
the box is formed by the two plasterboard panels and the two studs to both sides of the speaker.the front baffle will be either 3/4'' plywood or MDF, or whatever I have laying around the garage
The plasterboard is not usually sealed to the studs. It is usually screwed at intervals into the wood or steel studs.
How is the back plasterboard fixed?
16" wide MDF is not stiff, especially when only secured at two sides.
A panel that is secured around all 4 sides is stiffer. But even these need much stiffening to attenuate flex under pressure, both negative and positive.
Yeah, unless one is using high Qt drivers where a minor air leak is desirable and/or [stuffed] sealed, one really needs a 'box within a box' or at least mimic one as you noted and as Chris noted, it will either need toeing in or drivers designed to be listened to off axis, which usually requires a strong 'rising on axis' horn driver or 3-way system.
GM
GM
My walls are only 12'' on center(in this section of the garage)The studs are actual dimension 2''x4''. The back sheething is 1/2'' osb and hardy cement siding over it. With 3/4'' MDF or fiberboard as a front baffle, and After I seal up all the joints, it isn't going anywhere
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